Dave #22,Well...I've read your comments about Joe Lin and must say that my personal dealings with him have been fine. I ordered some parts for my '99 WC1 through ebay and they arrived within the specified time, no problem at all.
Happy New year.
Puking engine oil was due to the valve seats coming loose and the valve failing to seat. Forcing compression back into the valves and blowing the oil out. New seats and valves cured the problem along with a PVC valve. New mushroom lifter and all new bearings and spacing the crank end play correctly, installing a honda kein carb, and now I have an engine that runs like a swiss watch. I put both pedals in the 6 o'clock position and use them like foot pegs as pedaling is never used. Put any pedal at 10 or 2 o'clock. step down and it running like a charm.Steve,
Don't be worried about oil puking out the breather hose. That's a easy fix.
Just use a C.A.O.S. Breather (Crankcase Air Oil Separator) There are many on the market.
I make one called a C.A.O.S. Seat Post Breather For Sale. check the Dealer Advertisement section.
I turned the seat post into a c.a.o.s. breather.
The air and oil are separated inside of the seat post.
You can also make one yourself out of PVC pipe and save $. But that's kinda UGlY
How to fix and repair all the problems with New Gen Whizzers and Cruzzers have all been discussed on this forum over the years.
If you do some research and ask for a little advice I'm sure this will help to fix your bike
Taiwan Specs - Close Enough is Good Enough?
Hi from across the pond,
I did not realize you live in England U.K.
I guess your stuck buying parts from Joe Lin.
I don't think Cruzzer (Whizzer) Paul sell overseas.
That's too bad for you because Paul will refund or exchange any defective parts. American Values
I should look at where members are from before responding. Excuse me
I guess in your case Joe Lin would say "You stupid Brits will buy anything I sell you"
The SKF 6904 arrived this morning, so I decided to fit the parts. Yesterday I measured up for spacers, but found the crank had moved to the right slighty, with the cam gears about 1mm out of line and marks on the crank when it had touched the cam driven gear. I pushed the crank back until the gears were inline, then took some dimensions. I made two spacers, a 2mm one between the drive gear and the bearing inner path and the other, a 2.5mm one between the outer path and the bottom of the housing, which puts the new bearing on the same path that the needle roller previously sat.Thanks for the info, but I did read up on here about the spacer needed on the end of the crank. I actually took the cover off this morning to order bearings and found that the original are naachi and are as new. The one supplied by Joe is an open bearing made in Taiwan, but I'll replace it with an SKF and measure up for a spacer.
The new cover fits well and aligns on the dowels perfectly, so I don't see any quality issues.
Thanks for your help.