Cruzzer Motorbikes and WhizzerPaul

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
Well...I've read your comments about Joe Lin and must say that my personal dealings with him have been fine. I ordered some parts for my '99 WC1 through ebay and they arrived within the specified time, no problem at all.
Happy New year.
Dave.
 


Steve Jake

New Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Messages
11
Well...I've read your comments about Joe Lin and must say that my personal dealings with him have been fine. I ordered some parts for my '99 WC1 through ebay and they arrived within the specified time, no problem at all.
Happy New year.
Dave.
Dave #22,
Oh, Scammer Joe will sell you parts/stuff all day long. As long as you spend money he will sent you stuff. Just don't look for him to stand behind anything. Bought 3 new cruzzers from him. Warranty is none existent. He is a lieing thieving prick.I sent him countless emails and pictures of problems and he never replied. Don't know what you bought but don't expect it to live very long without failure.
The new cruzzers have the same valve/bearing problems as the junk that he made for the unexpecting whizzer distributor in Tex. I had both new and old engines fail. You'll know it happening when engines start puking oil out the breather. Text me if you want pictures. Better yet ask him to sent you the pictures that jake sent him. Whizzer Paul threw me under the bus to when I sent him pictures. They both never replied and I bought a new Ceramic engine from Paul when the 99 failed. Did that before I knew the short coming of any engine joe produced. Keep reading the forum. I'm not the only one disgusted with Slopey Joe.
Have a Nappy New Year too,
jake: 954-857-1041//////jakeslake@aol.com
PS. Call, Text, Email Me anytime.
 
W

Whizzer Jake

Guest
Steve,
Don't be worried about oil puking out the breather hose. That's a easy fix.
Just use a C.A.O.S. Breather (Crankcase Air Oil Separator) There are many on the market.
I make one called a C.A.O.S. Seat Post Breather For Sale. check the Dealer Advertisement section.
I turned the seat post into a c.a.o.s. breather.
The air and oil are separated inside of the seat post.
You can also make one yourself out of PVC pipe and save $. But that's kinda UGlY
How to fix and repair all the problems with New Gen Whizzers and Cruzzers have all been discussed on this forum over the years.
If you do some research and ask for a little advice I'm sure this will help to fix your bike
ALOHA Wrench
Taiwan Specs - Close Enough is Good Enough?
Puking engine oil was due to the valve seats coming loose and the valve failing to seat. Forcing compression back into the valves and blowing the oil out. New seats and valves cured the problem along with a PVC valve. New mushroom lifter and all new bearings and spacing the crank end play correctly, installing a honda kein carb, and now I have an engine that runs like a swiss watch. I put both pedals in the 6 o'clock position and use them like foot pegs as pedaling is never used. Put any pedal at 10 or 2 o'clock. step down and it running like a charm.
After building over 60 corvette engine powered motorcycle and converting old 883 sportster engines to a 5" stroke and a 3 1/4' bore. Working on a whizzer is like winding a watch. The only thing I pissed about with Joe and Paul is that they fail to fess up and acknowledge any problems. and blame the unsuspecting cruzzer customers for their mistakes and now that I think about it I wouldn't want their none half ass warranty anyway. replacing junk with more junk. , jake
 

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
Hi from across the pond,
I did not realize you live in England U.K.
I guess your stuck buying parts from Joe Lin.
I don't think Cruzzer (Whizzer) Paul sell overseas.
That's too bad for you because Paul will refund or exchange any defective parts. American Values
I should look at where members are from before responding. Excuse me
Aloha
I guess in your case Joe Lin would say "You stupid Brits will buy anything I sell you"
 

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
Here in England, I've never seen another Whizzer /Cruzzer on the road, so when I bought it, I joined the forum and took advice from Quentin in order to make it reliable, which it has been. I've also done mods to the ventilation system, with a separator which drains excess oil back into the crankcase oil drain through an external pipe and a banjo fitting...and I've put over 2000 miles on it.
My concern is when I removed the side cover to retime the cam, is that the crank bearing is a needle roller.
Recently I noticed that a side cover was available with a ball bearing, so ordering from Taiwan is much cheaper than the USA (postage & import duty), so that's what I did.
I haven't fitted the cover yet as I'm on holiday shortly, so it'll have to wait 'til I get back.
Dave.
 

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
Thanks for the info, but I did read up on here about the spacer needed on the end of the crank. I actually took the cover off this morning to order bearings and found that the original are naachi and are as new. The one supplied by Joe is an open bearing made in Taiwan, but I'll replace it with an SKF and measure up for a spacer.
The new cover fits well and aligns on the dowels perfectly, so I don't see any quality issues.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
 

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
Thanks for the info, but I did read up on here about the spacer needed on the end of the crank. I actually took the cover off this morning to order bearings and found that the original are naachi and are as new. The one supplied by Joe is an open bearing made in Taiwan, but I'll replace it with an SKF and measure up for a spacer.
The new cover fits well and aligns on the dowels perfectly, so I don't see any quality issues.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
The SKF 6904 arrived this morning, so I decided to fit the parts. Yesterday I measured up for spacers, but found the crank had moved to the right slighty, with the cam gears about 1mm out of line and marks on the crank when it had touched the cam driven gear. I pushed the crank back until the gears were inline, then took some dimensions. I made two spacers, a 2mm one between the drive gear and the bearing inner path and the other, a 2.5mm one between the outer path and the bottom of the housing, which puts the new bearing on the same path that the needle roller previously sat.
The bearing inner path ID is size for size with the crank spigot, so had to be heated to fit up against the 2mm spacer.
It went together well, started up and sounded just like it did before.
Hope it helps.
Dave.
 

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
Hi Wrench...too late for photos. If you look at your photo of the WC1 crank, you can see a small stub, about 1mm wide x 22mm dia. The 2mm spacer (20.1 ID x 25.4 OD) has a rebate inside to clear the stub, so that the bearing sits against the spacer which sits against the crank web.
The other 2.5mm spacer (33 ID X 36.9 OD) fits between the outer path of the bearing and the end of the bearing housing in the cover, keeping the bearing located to stop side float of the crank.
Dave.
 

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
No it's not too cold here, 11dec C...a bit windy though...in fact I've just been out for a ride around North Wales on my Suzuki DR 750 and covered 140 miles.
.........I ain't going nowhere it raining......I know what you mean...belt drive and rain don't mix, I had a terrible time in the Isle Of Man a couple of years ago.
I'll take the Cruzzer out tomorrow for a run....if it's not raining.
Dave.
 

dave#22

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
24
Well, I took the Cruzzer out today for a short run today and it runs just as well as before the bearing change also, the engine sounds a little bit quieter...happy.
Dave.
 
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