Cruzzer Motorbikes and WhizzerPaul

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#61
Puking engine oil was due to the valve seats coming loose and the valve failing to seat. Forcing compression back into the valves and blowing the oil out. New seats and valves cured the problem along with a PVC valve. New mushroom lifter and all new bearings and spacing the crank end play correctly, installing a honda kein carb, and now I have an engine that runs like a swiss watch. I put both pedals in the 6 o'clock position and use them like foot pegs as pedaling is never used. Put any pedal at 10 or 2 o'clock. step down and it running like a charm.
After building over 60 corvette engine powered motorcycle and converting old 883 sportster engines to a 5" stroke and a 3 1/4' bore. Working on a whizzer is like winding a watch. The only thing I pissed about with Joe and Paul is that they fail to fess up and acknowledge any problems. and blame the unsuspecting cruzzer customers for their mistakes and now that I think about it I wouldn't want their none half ass warranty anyway. replacing junk with more junk. , jake
Hi jake,
I'm glad ya got it all figured out. New NE-5 Cyl and head.
When the Whizzer NE-5 came out in 2005 There was just an air stone in the breather hose and the breather hose spit oil everywhere.
This is what I thought you were talking about.
I''m glad you use a type of c.a.o.s. breather . (Crankcase Air Oil Separator)
I suggest not to use the pcv valve with your c.a.o.s. breather.
The crankcase ventilation flows much better without one. The case likes to breath in and out besides just out.
ALOHA Wrench
 


Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Messages
91
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16
#62
Puking engine oil was due to the valve seats coming loose and the valve failing to seat. Forcing compression back into the valves and blowing the oil out. New seats and valves cured the problem along with a PVC valve. New mushroom lifter and all new bearings and spacing the crank end play correctly, installing a honda kein carb, and now I have an engine that runs like a swiss watch. I put both pedals in the 6 o'clock position and use them like foot pegs as pedaling is never used. Put any pedal at 10 or 2 o'clock. step down and it running like a charm.
After building over 60 corvette engine powered motorcycle and converting old 883 sportster engines to a 5" stroke and a 3 1/4' bore. Working on a whizzer is like winding a watch. The only thing I pissed about with Joe and Paul is that they fail to fess up and acknowledge any problems. and blame the unsuspecting cruzzer customers for their mistakes and now that I think about it I wouldn't want their none half ass warranty anyway. replacing junk with more junk. , jake
Howzit Whizzer Jake,
Excuse me
I assumed you just used a new NE-5 cyl and head to fix your WC-1
The WC-1 had the problem with the valve seats coming loose.
Are you saying that you put new valve seats in a WC-1 cly?
If so where did you have the work done? and what style (Brand Name) seats did you use?
Usually this type of repair is way to expensive.
It is much cheaper to just replace the WC-1 cyl with the NE-5 cyl
Many have come up with different ways to replace the valve seats or to secure the valve seats in place.
But none have proved to be long term or bullet proof and fail.
(Please no one tell us about using set screws or peining the valve seat in place. These valve seat repairs are short term)
If you have a sure way to replace the WC-1 valve seats cheaper than buying a new NE-5 cyl.
Please tell us all. Many WC-1 owners want to know.
Oh and where did you put that PVC valve? I just assumed you were talking about a c.a.o.s. breather with a pvc valve on top
The WC-1 had the breather (vent) hose going to the carb air filter.
This just filled the air filter with oil. This has been proven to be a bad design.
I had to ask because I don't want to assume
Ya know what they say to assume means "To make an ass out of you and me.
ALOHA Wrench
 

dave#22

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#63
Thanks for the info, but I did read up on here about the spacer needed on the end of the crank. I actually took the cover off this morning to order bearings and found that the original are naachi and are as new. The one supplied by Joe is an open bearing made in Taiwan, but I'll replace it with an SKF and measure up for a spacer.
The new cover fits well and aligns on the dowels perfectly, so I don't see any quality issues.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
 

dave#22

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#64
Thanks for the info, but I did read up on here about the spacer needed on the end of the crank. I actually took the cover off this morning to order bearings and found that the original are naachi and are as new. The one supplied by Joe is an open bearing made in Taiwan, but I'll replace it with an SKF and measure up for a spacer.
The new cover fits well and aligns on the dowels perfectly, so I don't see any quality issues.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
The SKF 6904 arrived this morning, so I decided to fit the parts. Yesterday I measured up for spacers, but found the crank had moved to the right slighty, with the cam gears about 1mm out of line and marks on the crank when it had touched the cam driven gear. I pushed the crank back until the gears were inline, then took some dimensions. I made two spacers, a 2mm one between the drive gear and the bearing inner path and the other, a 2.5mm one between the outer path and the bottom of the housing, which puts the new bearing on the same path that the needle roller previously sat.
The bearing inner path ID is size for size with the crank spigot, so had to be heated to fit up against the 2mm spacer.
It went together well, started up and sounded just like it did before.
Hope it helps.
Dave.
 
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#65
The SKF 6904 arrived this morning, so I decided to fit the parts. Yesterday I measured up for spacers, but found the crank had moved to the right slighty, with the cam gears about 1mm out of line and marks on the crank when it had touched the cam driven gear. I pushed the crank back until the gears were inline, then took some dimensions. I made two spacers, a 2mm one between the drive gear and the bearing inner path and the other, a 2.5mm one between the outer path and the bottom of the housing, which puts the new bearing on the same path that the needle roller previously sat.
The bearing inner path ID is size for size with the crank spigot, so had to be heated to fit up against the 2mm spacer.
It went together well, started up and sounded just like it did before.
Hope it helps.
Dave.
Hi Dave,
Could you put up a few pictures of the two spacers and where you put them?
I can't quite follow what your trying to describe.
Sounds to me like you put a spacer on either side of the 6904 and have one spacer butting up against the inside R.H. side cover
This might not be a good idea.
Because the spacer will spin against the inside R.H. side cover and drill a hole creating more crank end play.
The crank will move to the right and the cam gear will rub against the crank.
I found it best to have the 6904 completely seated in it's boar and just use one spacer 3.5mm to 4mm long.
I know I recommended making a spacer 3.5mm long.
I later changed mine to 3.90mm long. I found I needed to take up another .015th" of crank end play
Yea fine tuning is required for correct crank end play.
ALOHA Wrench
 
Last edited:

dave#22

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#66
Hi Wrench...too late for photos. If you look at your photo of the WC1 crank, you can see a small stub, about 1mm wide x 22mm dia. The 2mm spacer (20.1 ID x 25.4 OD) has a rebate inside to clear the stub, so that the bearing sits against the spacer which sits against the crank web.
The other 2.5mm spacer (33 ID X 36.9 OD) fits between the outer path of the bearing and the end of the bearing housing in the cover, keeping the bearing located to stop side float of the crank.
Dave.
 
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#67
Hi Dave,
Yea that works too.
Kill one bird with two stones.
I understand. That's where you want the bearing to sit in relation to the crankshaft.
Can you ride today or is it too cold?
It's almost 60* here in Southern Ca.
Think I'll go for a 25 mile ride around a lake that's close by.
ALOHA Wrench
 
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#68
Hi Wrench...too late for photos. If you look at your photo of the WC1 crank, you can see a small stub, about 1mm wide x 22mm dia. The 2mm spacer (20.1 ID x 25.4 OD) has a rebate inside to clear the stub, so that the bearing sits against the spacer which sits against the crank web.
The other 2.5mm spacer (33 ID X 36.9 OD) fits between the outer path of the bearing and the end of the bearing housing in the cover, keeping the bearing located to stop side float of the crank.
Dave.
Just to get your attention I forgot to click reply
 
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#69
Hi Wrench...too late for photos. If you look at your photo of the WC1 crank, you can see a small stub, about 1mm wide x 22mm dia. The 2mm spacer (20.1 ID x 25.4 OD) has a rebate inside to clear the stub, so that the bearing sits against the spacer which sits against the crank web.
The other 2.5mm spacer (33 ID X 36.9 OD) fits between the outer path of the bearing and the end of the bearing housing in the cover, keeping the bearing located to stop side float of the crank.
Dave.
Hi Dave,
Yea that works too.
Kill one bird with two stones.
I understand. That's where you want the bearing to sit in relation to the crankshaft.
Can you ride today or is it too cold?
It's almost 60* here in Southern Ca.
Think I'll go for a 25 mile ride around a lake that's close by.
ALOHA Wrench
I ain't going nowhere it raining
 
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#70
No it's not too cold here, 11dec C...a bit windy though...in fact I've just been out for a ride around North Wales on my Suzuki DR 750 and covered 140 miles.
.........I ain't going nowhere it raining......I know what you mean...belt drive and rain don't mix, I had a terrible time in the Isle Of Man a couple of years ago.
I'll take the Cruzzer out tomorrow for a run....if it's not raining.
Dave.
 
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