For Sale Custom motorized bike gaskets, MADE IN USA!

Well, after a few years of motorized bike experience and building countless kits, I've always had a problem with the crappy gaskets they come with, they would always either rip on me whenever I needed to remove the cylinder or intake or they were soo thin that it wouldn't seal properly even when cranking down on the bolts as hard as possible.


Sooo, I decided to make my own!

There cut on my CNC cutter and quality checked by yours truly, I use the best material's that I can find (fel-pro)

The rubberized cork gasket and the Karropak withstands the bend test with flying colors!

I'm currently offering these gaskets for the intake as well as the base gasket.

You get 2 Karropak base gaskets and rubberized cork base gasket as well as 2 Karropak intake gaskets and 1 rubberized cork intake gasket all for 15$ shipped (lower 48)

Due to popular demand, I will now be offering my chainsaw gaskets made of Karropak, these will fit the chainsaw carb conversions (Tillotson HS254B carbs to be specific)
You get 5 gaskets for 10$ shipped (lower 48)

For sales or inquires: Either PM me or email me at markmakesgaskets@gmail.com

 

[mark20]

Question for the op, can you do 1.5mm and 2 mm gaskets yet? Base gaskets is what I'm asking about. Black ones, if possible, they tend to glue up after heating and seal for life. Karropack is good but gets brittle with age. I like to jack my ports up a little and shave my jugs down slightly, and with CDH jugs and engines I use, 1.5-2mm is what I have found I want on ever single one so far. Gives a good top end, nice bottom end, and makes me happy. lol. If I can get away with not porting, and just a cleaning, and using a gasket every time, I'd rather go that route. Saves time if I just slap a gasket on instead of bust out the caliper or degree wheel. An I lost my degree wheel. lol

Cant do those, unfortunately, the machine is limited to 1/32 with decent accuracy. I could get away with 1mm but that doesn't give me the accurate cuts I'm looking for.

 

[chinarelli boy]

Well, after a few years of motorized bike experience and building countless kits, I've always had a problem with the crappy gaskets they come with, they would always either rip on me whenever I needed to remove the cylinder or intake or they were soo thin that it wouldn't seal properly even when cranking down on the bolts as hard as possible.
Sooo, I decided to make my own!

wheres the head gaskets?

 

[DAMIEN1307]

wheres the head gaskets?

Those are either copper or aluminum and he would need different machinery for those.

 

[Wrench]

wheres the head gaskets?

A Laser CNC machine would be nice
But you can make your own Head Gaskets with basic home shop tools.
I ride a Whizzer M/B so I make Whizzer copper head gaskets
Maybe some of my methods can help you make your own.

Make Copper Head gaskets

Howzit Everyone, Making your own Copper Head Gaskets saves a lot of money$ and now you can match the combustion chamber exact. Cutting and drilling thin copper sheet takes some thought and skill. I'll explain in order what works for me and the basic tools I use. I use .016 th" thick copper sheet...

motoredbikes.com

 

[Mossy]

A Laser CNC machine would be nice
But you can make your own Head Gaskets with basic home shop tools.
I ride a Whizzer M/B so I make Whizzer copper head gaskets
Maybe some of my methods can help you make your own.

Make Copper Head gaskets

Howzit Everyone, Making your own Copper Head Gaskets saves a lot of money$ and now you can match the combustion chamber exact. Cutting and drilling thin copper sheet takes some thought and skill. I'll explain in order what works for me and the basic tools I use. I use .016 th" thick copper sheet...

motoredbikes.com

I'm going to be making copper base gaskets to raise the jug.. 16gauge is 1.6mm for example useing these methods thanks again

 

[Street Ryderz]

I don't really understand why you'd want to raise the jug by 1.6 mm, there is a misconception about altering port timing this way and without decking the jug back down to achieve proper clearance it shifts the cycle phase loses compression, is more prone to detonation and loses power.
Cycle phase and the degrees at which port opening occurs is not the same as port timing duration, this greatly effects how power is made since the sooner or less degrees of crank rotation the cycle phase takes place the less torque/power is transferred to the crank and thus is only better suited to very high rpm output engines.
My preference is to have minimal clearances every where possible to keep fit tight and reduce the chance of leaks while getting the strokes full range in relation to it's cycle phase, and since these are not very high output or revving engines we want to get all we can from where it's intended.

 

[Karl Snarl]

I don't really understand why you'd want to raise the jug by 1.6 mm, there is a misconception about altering port timing this way and without decking the jug back down to achieve proper clearance it shifts the cycle phase loses compression, is more prone to detonation and loses power.
Cycle phase and the degrees at which port opening occurs is not the same as port timing duration, this greatly effects how power is made since the sooner or less degrees of crank rotation the cycle phase takes place the less torque/power is transferred to the crank and thus is only better suited to very high rpm output engines.
My preference is to have minimal clearances every where possible to keep fit tight and reduce the chance of leaks while getting the strokes full range in relation to it's cycle phase, and since these are not very high output or revving engines we want to get all we can from where it's intended.

My CDH preform real well with a 1.5-2mm raise and decked to set squish back down. It moves max power up to around 6500-7000 rpms, instead of the stock 5000-5500. Well with a proper pipe and tuning. After tinkering for a while, it's where I found I like it best. Stock timing is alright too, I just like to push it a little more and try to get just a bit more time on the transfers. Stock porting on CDH doesn't open the transfers fully, still just a little bit more time they could have. Not that a stock CDH is bad, I just have never been one for leaving things alone.

 

[Mossy]

I don't really understand why you'd want to raise the jug by 1.6 mm, there is a misconception about altering port timing this way and without decking the jug back down to achieve proper clearance it shifts the cycle phase loses compression, is more prone to detonation and loses power.
Cycle phase and the degrees at which port opening occurs is not the same as port timing duration, this greatly effects how power is made since the sooner or less degrees of crank rotation the cycle phase takes place the less torque/power is transferred to the crank and thus is only better suited to very high rpm output engines.
My preference is to have minimal clearances every where possible to keep fit tight and reduce the chance of leaks while getting the strokes full range in relation to it's cycle phase, and since these are not very high output or revving engines we want to get all we can from where it's intended.

Some of the engines have 2 base gaskets... It could be a stroke difference and or jug difference between the engines but I'm still learning... Now I'm going to study cycle phase... It's going to bring me back to an offset wrist pin and duration at TDC I'm guessing

 

[Karl Snarl]

Some of the engines have 2 base gaskets... It could be a stroke difference and or jug difference between the engines but I'm still learning... Now I'm going to study cycle phase... It's going to bring me back to an offset wrist pin and duration at TDC I'm guessing

A lot of guys run the 38mm strokes, I like the 40mm. Might be from the difference in jug and cranks with the stroke length. I just noticed on all the 40mm jugs ( there are 38mm and 40mm jugs, look so close, but you know when you install them) the transfers are still covered BDC. I have noticed if you use a 38mm jug on a 40mm stroke crank, you have to use 2 base gaskets or it will hit the head.

 

[Street Ryderz]

We all know that 4 strokes make more torque especially in the bottom end and that's because they use the whole down stroke (power stroke) to transmit power through the crank, where a 2t that the exh port opens early in the rotation only uses a small percentage of the rotation to transmit that power then relies on inertia to complete both the rest of the down stroke and the following up stroke, where it also starts to fight compression.
I wouldn't say max power occurs at 5000 - 5500 rpm or shifted up to 6500 - 7000 but rather that's where the port timing starts to work best or known as the sweet spot, if this was the point of max power you would only get another 1000 rpm or so beyond that as power typically falls off after the max point.