CY 460 Repairs and upgrades questions newbie help please

66cc-outlaw

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CY R460 question summary

  • Stripped thread where the muffler goes on cylinder, replace cylinder?
  • Idle is way to fast with a brand new carburetor, what to do?
  • $4 NGK spark plug vs the $10 one, is the spark plug even the problem with startup?

Details:
I have a Friction drive bike with a CY R460 Motor and have been keeping up and running pretty well with the help of the people on this forum. So if you kind people would be so kind as to help with this.

My muffler keeps falling off. The bolts must be Vibrating loose. I've completely lost several sets of bolts for it. I've tried this thread blue sealing stuff but after about a month it started happening again. Today when I was screwing in a bolt I think I stripped the thread in the cylinder. So should I now replace the cylinder?

Also I've replaced the carburetor with a completely new one and at first after putting it on there would be a point some where between slow and full throttle where the engine would die if you didn't either pull the throttle real fast or just let it idle. That doesn't happen anymore but now when I try to idle the roller will not stop. I have to kill the engine to be able to sit a stop light and wait for a minute or else I'll dig a hole into my back tire. Whats to be done about this?

I put a new NGK spark plug in and it starts up every time. But I have to do this pattern to get it running. Choke closed, pull the start string twice, on the second pull engine starts and dies real quick, open the choke and pull it three times and go! I thought about buying the $10 NGK spark plug instead of the $4 one maybe that will help this issue?
 
Are sure the bolt was stripped? (eg. do you see bits of loose aluminum where the
Bolt tgreads into the cylinder or on the bolt itself?) Tge reason being that if its a can style muffler, I can't imagine why it would fall off if the bolts were tight enough, and maybe
You were undertourqueing them. And when you say you might have stripped
The bolt, the extra turning you felt could've just been the outside of the
Sheet metal muffler being squeezed flat
So that it mates with these 2 support tubes, which prevent the muffler from collapsing when the bolts are tightened. The support tubes could even have fallen out of place and allowed the muffler to start to collapse. (The bolts should go
Right through them). So just make sure it is actually stripped by checking for shavings in the bolt hole, and if there isn't, continue to tighten the
Muffler until you suddenly feel ALOT of Resistance.

To lower the idle, look for a small peice that gets pulled by the throttle cable to make it turn (butterfly valve). There will be a small screw that the peice rests on when the throttle isn't being pulled. This is your idle speed screw. To lower, turn it counter clockwise while the engine is running until it will idle at a standstill
 
Do what we did in the military and wire-wrap the bolts to each other.

They will NEVER loosen up.

How's your rear tire holding up? I had a 460 friction drive. Mine ate tires VERY quickly.

Any problems with your clutch springs?
 
No thread locking compound will hold up to exhaust heat . I agree with wiring nuts to keep them on, what I do is ... Replace studs with longer / stronger ones, use metric coupler nuts to secure pipe to cylinder. Keep the coupler nuts tight with a stock size nut. An acorn nut looks cool atop the coupler nut. Gently deforming damaged threads ' sometimes ' works .
 
You COULD find 2 bolts that thread into the cyl, then cut off a length a bit longer than the width of ur muffler. Put a bit of JB weld (takes up to 500 degrees F) In the bolt hole, and screw in you homemade "studs". Then use NYLOCK nuts to hold the muffler on. Whether or not the nylon in the nut will melt off I dot know, gotta try it. If it melts, use a lock washer
 
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