Dax Friction drive converted to V belt drive

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by lowracer, Sep 3, 2012.

  1. lowracer

    lowracer Member


    I decided to scrap the 3 Cag pocket bike engines & use only Tanaka's.
    Here is my latest project converting a DAX friction drive to v-belt drive. The friction roller slides off the 16mm shaft & a 5/8" V pulley fits nice & snug. I still had the rim-to-rim wheel pulley attached from a previous project. I get a few more mph's from v-belt drive compared to friction drive using the same engines & gearing (less friction). I just finished mounting the expansion chamber pipe & really like the added few mph on top. These little Tanaka 32cc engines are super reliable & once broken in have decent enough power for a bicycle.

    Attached Files:

  2. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Followup on DAX friction kits.
    Since installing 3 of these kits now, there is a trick to keeping them from vibrating & making alot of extra noise.
    You have to remove the play between the bearings. See how much you can wiggle the drum shaft left to right & if it has wiggle room it will make noise. Remove the engine, end snap ring, shaft collar & snap ring from the outside bearing & slide out the drum shaft assembly. I use a socket that fits perfectly over the inner bearing sleeve (dont mash your bearings) & tap it down the shaft just enough to remove that extra play. Then when I re-install the shaft assembly I use a few drops of green bearing sleeve lock-tite on both bearings where they fit into the drive channel to keep the bearings from spinning around in the channel. Once dry & test driven, the tighter set-up with lock-tite'd bearings is quiet as a mouse...(Huge difference).
    I has similar issues with the old BMP kits & did a similar fix. Worked wonders...