Dead in the water

whizz_kid

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2:26 PM
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Jan 16, 2008
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No matter what I do I cannot get my 2005 ne whizzer to start.

I previously had some help from someone more knowledgeable than I and we had it running minus some issues with clutch break in, so it didn’t really get up to speed (that was the only real issue previously).

It’s sat unstarted for some time. Gas tank was empty, oil was almost gone (has a small leak from the drain plug, previous owner wallowed it out, so makes sense it would be dry)

It’s had new lifters, proper clearances when installed, head and copper gasket(?) , carbuerator (denki 26mm), spark plug (ngk iridium), oil change, new gas. New auto clutch, unrelated to it starting but mentioning it. All of the new stuff is from Quenton from a few years ago, but it was working shortly after it was all installed.

Battery is most assuredly dead but I think it’s disconnected, and I don’t care about accessories right now.

I pulled the fork cover off and there were some wires disconnected so I reconnected them. Previous owner looks to have fixed some broken ones previously and fixed them from the back rather than pulling off the cover. There is one broken black wire, that if broken looks to loop back to the same loom, I don’t get why that would be. . . It’s the only thing that’s weird, and so fixing it seems unsure.

I know I’m getting fuel and spark, and for a blip when I reconnected the fuel line (to check it wasn’t clogged or something) to the carb I cranked it over and it seemed like it was about to start, but nope.

I am in the Bay Area, CA, and don’t have a truck to transport it but would gladly buy someone a beer and a tank of gas for any and all help. I’d rather learn how to fish than just be given a cooked fish here, but I’ll take getting it running and walking through the troubleshooting over it still not running.
 
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Thanks for the thorough response!

I got a new battery, and while the headlight and tail light turn on and horn works, which only the headlight would turn on previously when I was trying to crank it over.

Still no cigar. . .

I really don’t think it’s the CDI, do those really go bad often enough just sitting that it would be an obvious culprit?

Also I’m not sure where to source one of those locally, and even online. Searched for 5-pin cdi and came up with this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CDI-NO-REV...COOTER-MOPED-JONWAY-JMSTAR-TANK-/112529202184

Not even sure if that would work. . . I feel like replacing the battery was on obvious duh thing to try but nope. CDI feels more of a shot in the dark.

Not sure how to test the kill switch, or otherwise, I even tried to test my new battery which is obviously charged and it was showing me incorrect info, so apparently I don’t have any clue how to use my voltmeter.

The battery cover is broken off, and is just strapped to the frame with tie wraps, it’s a sight. . . has been since I bought it so my main ground wire is connected to the exhaust manifold. Not sure if that’s bad or good, but that’s where it’s at. Again was working before just like that. . .

Hi whiz-kid,
Sorry to hear about your troubles with your bike, you say the battery is disconnected . The battery must be connected even if its dead to complete the circuit. Buy a fresh battery their only $ 20-25 you'll want it anyway's when you get the bike running for the horn, turn signals and brake lights. The main ground wire attaches on the left bolt where the battery cover bolts on . Clean that area up for a good connection. You say it's a 2005 ne5 so it must have an AC 5 pin CDI. First thing I would do is put in a new fresh CDI. I know you said it has a spark . A bad CDI will still show a spark a weak spark. Its not strong enough to have the air fuel mixture ignite . An AC CDI costs around $5 -10 for stock. But get the CDI with no rev limit their better . Their usually called a racing CDI and cost from $5-25 depending on where you buy it. You'll want an extra one of these anyways for fast trouble shooting in the future. Whats really got my concern is that someone has been messing with the wiring harness. You say there is one broken black wire that looks like it loops back to the harness but your not sure and why would that be? Well you have to be sure where that wire goes. There are some areas in the harness where as much as three black wires are all connected together in a gang crimped connection . Since this bike was made in Taiwan, sometimes a black wire connects to a green wire. Don't be surprised if this is the case A ground wire is very important . Take your time . unwrap the harness in the area where you think the wire broke off. Take some masking tape or blue tape and cut little strips so you can number and tag any wires you might have to disconnect. Tag on both sides of the connectors. I know the wires are color coded but it can get confusing real fast. This way you'll be positive where the wires that you disconnected go. You also said the previous owner made some repairs to the harness. You will need to unwrap any tape and inspect these areas that were previously repaired to insure it was done correctly and that all repairs have good connections. At this time you can also clean up the harness and neatly route the wires. If you want to just disconnect all accessories because you don't care about accessories right now . Follow the 4 wire s up from the stator to the molex plug the plug is white .Their should be 3 wires going into the molex plug a white wire a yellow wire and a blue and yellow striped wire. Unplug the molex plug. Then using a short jumper wire connect the blue wire with the yellow stripe back together> now all your accessories are disconnected and only the AC power to the CDI is connected. This is how you can have the bike run without any accessories. Make sure you check that the kill switch on the left handle controls is good. Use an ohm meter. If your bike has a rear brake switch mounted at the rear wheel. The wires coming out from the rear fender going forward.That molex plug must be connected there is a ground that will be connected by that plug. If the molex plug is not connected this
will prevent the bike from starting. One more thing that's an easy trouble shooting check. Check the spark plug gap .025 and check the spark plug wire for good connection at the coil and at the spark plug boot. If the boot has been changed to one that no longer has the resistor in it. This will make the CDI go bad because of electrical interference using the c7hsa plug. Its easy to tell the differences. The stock spark plug boot is plastic the resistor is inside, and a replaced boot will most likely be rubber if you think the spark plug boot hes been replaced just use the cr7hsa plug this plug has a resistor in it and will save the CDI from going bad because of electrical interference.
Whiz-Kid, since you said it seemed like it wanted to start when you were trying to crank it over, but nope . I'm betting on just hooking up the battery. if not that a bad CDI. Sometimes with a bad CDI the bike will even run for a short while then die.
I hope it's an easy fix. Good Luck
Noon time bugs taste just as bad as midnight bugs
 
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26mm carb?
Do you have another carb you can use? I don't think it's the cdi.


Ray
 
Try using a longer drain plug first, not much room here. Might be better to weldup.

Ray
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I bought 2 CDI's, I understand it's a cheap part and can easily go bad, and why not eliminate it as a problem. I come from a background in computers and music production, so I know cars/motored things is just signal path, and variable elimination, and when it's at minimal risk why not test/experiment with that.

Regarding another carb, this 26mm was working... I agree it could be a culprit in getting gas/air into the engine, so I'm gonna try and clean it and check it out more. I don't have my old carb, I've moved a few times since I last ran this thing so no clue where the old smaller one, or if it even works anymore, since I have a new top-end from quentin (again was working previously...)

Right now there is a longer bolt pretty much jammed (screwed) in the drain plug, and sure it leaks very slowly, but in a week of having a full 8oz crank case of oil I haven't seen a drop. Perhaps when there is actually pressure running through the case it will show itself. I will address that when I get there. I'd like to just weld it and re-tap it and move on from that issue, it's just ugly... alas I don't know anyone that welds, so i'll figure that out.

I also got a 1.25amp battery tender to keep the battery charged...
 
If your gonna use a tap,use a roll tap. You don't wanna lose anymore meat.
Make sure slow idle jet is clear, should be a #35
these like air. :)


Ray
 
Roll taps don't cut threads. Your not losing any Metal.
So, what's going on?

Ray
 
no worries Whizfan, meanwhile you guys can tap this. it's better than life support, keep your oil in the crank case right?
Even Cruzzer is doing it. Wonder why?

Ray
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