lazylightning@mail.r
Active Member
I'll check it. I think that just sealing the cable to housing point will remedy it.
D
Deleted member 12676
Guest
It won't remedy it because the whole inside of the carb top area is fluently connected to the intake side, so that air can enter from there or from the cable seat.
Fabian
Well-Known Member
I think you are trying to over compensate for a problem that isn't a problem in the real world.
Even if there is an air leak, so long as it is a consistent air leak, it can be compensated for by slightly altering the jetting to restore a perfect air/fuel ratio.
I have tried the genuine Dellorto and it worked acceptably well, though when the NT and genuine dellorto and clone Dellorto were jetted correctly, they all worked the same; not one of them gave any better performance over the other, and the diaphragm carburettor fitted to the intake tract on my bike does not give any better performance that the previously mentioned float style carburettors, but it is much, much easier to tune.
Even if there is an air leak, so long as it is a consistent air leak, it can be compensated for by slightly altering the jetting to restore a perfect air/fuel ratio.
I have tried the genuine Dellorto and it worked acceptably well, though when the NT and genuine dellorto and clone Dellorto were jetted correctly, they all worked the same; not one of them gave any better performance over the other, and the diaphragm carburettor fitted to the intake tract on my bike does not give any better performance that the previously mentioned float style carburettors, but it is much, much easier to tune.
D
Deleted member 12676
Guest
In the real world there is a real air leak in these carbs which is easier to fix with JBWeld than to compensate for by drilling an additional hole in the fuel column. It is a problem unless you think that a racing idle rpm is OK. come on man, you get real.
lazylightning@mail.r
Active Member
So can I just seal off the path to the intake side? JB weld?
D
Deleted member 12676
Guest
You could do that but it's best to just stop the leak at the slide. Just a little JBWeld on its front surface does the trick. Once it starts getting tacky then move the slide up and down to cause excess thickness of it to be scraped off.
Fabian
Well-Known Member
I have never experienced this problem with my Genuine Dellorto and clone Dellorto carburettor. Both of them were jetted so that they ran optimally and they never had racing idle rpm.
At the end of the day (and if you are having all of these problems) it will be a heck of a lot easier to simply install a diaphragm carburettor and consign the float style carburettor to the rubbish bin...
lazylightning@mail.r
Active Member
Hi Fabian,
I can agree with you about the float deal. I know that float carbs change mixture ratios when going uphill or downhill or leaning over. The slanting of the carb level causes it to be richer or leaner. I read about it on some go cart racing pages.
I must say though, I have had racing at idle problems too. I did drill a small hole in the feeder column at the very bottom which has pretty much helped it out. Still yet, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. The play in that slide and the open sources of air could easily cause lean condition, but not constantly. Depending on how that slide is angled at that moment. I think it's not only a question of racing at idle too. Any inconsistency plays **** with tuning the mix. Just a change in atmospheric pressure and temperature can greatly affect the oxygen content and thus, it runs like sheet at low pressure and balmy warm and rainy combination. Whereas at subzero and high atmospheric pressure, the little bugger really rips %-) I do love those ice spikes. After a thawing everything froze over in an icy glaze last night. It was difficult to keep it steady at times, my spikes are getting dull. Boy did it rip though.
I'm still running the stock pipe. Every master and shop has just out let me down and not helped me get that header done =-( The last time I had that stock muffler off, it had an inner diameter of about 16mm from all the black goo inside. The tube part is welded or brazed on so even if I take the cap off it doesn't come apart. I feel if I could ever get a header done, it would be quite impressive. Now I'm packing up all my stuff to move and I have so much on my mind now and so little time. I won't be able to access my bike for quite a while until after I finish some travels this summer and find the place I'll move all my stuff too.
I've started exercising now. It feels real good. Situps - 400 low situps(shoulders just off floor) with 40 lbs of weight on my chest. 200 jumping jacks with 4 lbs weights on each wrist, later will go up to 400 jumping jacks. 200 windmills. Starting out with lite weights - 11 lbs in a hand. I don't think it was really all the laziness of riding a bike with an engine though. This past year, the year of the Black Water Dragon, was very destructive inside and out and quite depressive at times. I worked a day job at an industrial object and was so tired all the time that I couldn't even do the basic exercises I needed, plus all my good physical form was just dissipating quickly for no good reason, even considering the lack of exercise. It was just one of those years, plus the end of a 26,000 year cycle...lol!
By the way, today is the Astrological New Year of the East, I congratulate you all with the coming of the Year of the Snake (also water, color I don't know). Let this year bring you all many great things, health, fortune, love, happiness. Snake years are known for that ;-)
Best Regards,
Paul
lazylightning@mail.r
Active Member
I'll do that, but I see no harm in sealing the unnecessary channels to the front of the carb. That cable entry and cable end will get a sealing too. No such thing as doing it too good ;-)
lazylightning@mail.r
Active Member
Hey Jaguar,
So I wonder if your boost bottle will work better after fixing this carb flaw-leak.)))
So I wonder if your boost bottle will work better after fixing this carb flaw-leak.)))
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