Diary of My "Moped" build Registration in Florida

Risk Man

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you do know that a moped in Florida depending if you get a A-hole inspector the bike has to be a automatic and the 2-strokes would be considered manual due to the clutch
I understood the manual specification but not how it applied. Interesting. Perhaps I should pull the clutch and suggest that I pedal it to start and finish? I know of another person on the Facebook forum that I communicated with that had no problem with his passing. so as you said, it must depend on the inspector. Wish me luck. It is a 100 mile drive.....:( s
 

Risk Man

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you do know that a moped in Florida depending if you get a A-hole inspector the bike has to be a automatic and the 2-strokes would be considered manual due to the clutch
MOPED.—Any vehicle with pedals to permit propulsion by human power, having a seat or saddle for the use of the rider and designed to travel on not more than three wheels, with a motor rated not in excess of 2 brake horsepower and not capable of propelling the vehicle at a speed greater than 30 miles per hour on level ground and with a power-drive system that functions directly or automatically without clutching or shifting gears by the operator after the drive system is engaged

I will argue that the engagement of the drive system is by way of a moving plate rubbing against a flat surface that drives the propulsion gear that is actuated by a lever attached to the handlebar! Once actuated, the bike has not gear shifting or clutching.
 

Chainlube

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MOPED.—Any vehicle with pedals to permit propulsion by human power, having a seat or saddle for the use of the rider and designed to travel on not more than three wheels, with a motor rated not in excess of 2 brake horsepower and not capable of propelling the vehicle at a speed greater than 30 miles per hour on level ground and with a power-drive system that functions directly or automatically without clutching or shifting gears by the operator after the drive system is engaged

I will argue that the engagement of the drive system is by way of a moving plate rubbing against a flat surface that drives the propulsion gear that is actuated by a lever attached to the handlebar! Once actuated, the bike has not gear shifting or clutching.
Call it the "Starter Plate and Lever".
 

Risk Man

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Greetings! I am new to the forum and got the motorbike bug reminiscent of my younger days and decided to go all in. I have all of the components on order and have reached out to DMV and got all the forms and a good contact person via email. At first I thought it might not be possible and then after reading endless details of the statute and demands of the forms, it might well be doable.

I know it will take me quite a while to make the initial build with all of the required safety equipment, but I want those bells and whistles anyway for my safety. I have no idea what to expect when I send all of the pictures and complete all of the documents which are required to be approved before you can even make the appointment for inspection (which is located a 2.5 hour drive from my home).

My plan is to provide a detailed picture diary and update on the paperwork process so others can follow.

Before all the fun begins (I have the motor 48CC and under 2 hp and the motor ready bike in hand so far) has any forum member done this or tried to do it (here in Florida) and if so how did it go?

Thanks,

Dennis
Here are some details on my bike while I wait for my Tuesday inspection. Battery box- inside is a 12 volt 6 amp LiPo rechargeable battery. Inside is a 15 amp fuse and switch mounted to the front. Box is water tight, I have a universal connector for coupling with harness or outboard charger. I figure it should give me at least 3 hours of ride before charging. Have not run it out yet to confirm
 

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Wrench

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It has been over a month since I last posted. Ran in to many small "detail" issues with the components particularly the "motor ready bike" from Bikeberry. (Tank frame bike) Over the course of the next several posts, I will diary the build and some of the issues of which a few still exist. As of today, I have sent my paper work to the DMV with the "completed" pictures and now wait for them to call and hopefully schedule the inspection.
I hope all goes well and you pass with flying colors.
Got a bunch of wiring done today. Rear Light board, one end of the main harness feeding the rear, front light and horn. Need to wait for my rear rack to come on Tuesday before I finalize the harness and its length. Did not want to guess at it. Made a few errors today but was able to recover from both of them including using the extra wire I had in the harness for "What if" and found out I had an "if" to use it for my turn signal flasher. Glad it was there.
It would be a drag for those wires to become frayed and short out because no rubber grommets were used.

Ya might think they'll be OK but riding vibrations are gonna make em rub on the metal and fray sooner or later
 

Wrench

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Also your light plate it's gonna catch whatever your rear tire throws up so I'm sure your gonna want to seal those holes so no dirt or water gets into any wire connections or lights

BTW I like the nice waterproof plug you used

Here's an example of what the rubber grommets will look like. I used them when running my turn signal wires thru my tail light bracket
See how nice and tight they seal
 

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Risk Man

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I hope all goes well and you pass with flying colors.

It would be a drag for those wires to become frayed and short out because no rubber grommets were used.

Ya might think they'll be OK but riding vibrations are gonna make em rub on the metal and fray sooner or later
In retrospect, the grommets would have been a good idea. I am confident that the clearance and lack of loose wires moving around hopefully should not be an issue. Everything is tied down pretty tight leading up to the connector. One of the reasons I spend so much time on the dedicated wiring harness with waterproof connectors at each end was so it can easily be disconnected front and back and any of the components serviced as needed without having to re-wire the whole bike. There are 7 active components: Tail, break, turn license plate light in the back and Headlight (High and low beam) horn and batter mains connections in the front.
 

Risk Man

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8:41 PM
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Soutwest Florida
Also your light plate it's gonna catch whatever your rear tire throws up so I'm sure your gonna want to seal those holes so no dirt or water gets into any wire connections or lights

BTW I like the nice waterproof plug you used

Here's an example of what the rubber grommets will look like. I used them when running my turn signal wires thru my tail light bracket
See how nice and tight they seal
Yes, my "mudflap" will do that for sure, but here in SW Florida, and with this a pleasure rider only, I should never see even wet roads. I have no plans on riding in bad weather. Only issue is a pop-up thunderstorm we do have for sure, but like riding my exercise bike, I watch the weather very closely before I set out. I did use waterproof marine connectors for all of the splices (you use a heat gun to sweat the solder joint in the middle with heat shrink ends built in). I also then covered most all of those connections with heat shrink tubing and then they went into the braided Alex Tech wire loom.
 
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