Diary of My "Moped" build Registration in Florida

[Risk Man]

Thanks for the replies. I will try and keep this thread on track (Getting built and licensed process) but since I will be out of town for the next week while several major components are delivered including the bike frame, I can only follow up on the replies and add any more details until I start building in two weeks.

The dual lever posted by Mr. Diesel looks like the one I have. On the comments I made about yellow stop lights it was more of a matter of FYI and the reason I may use yellow is because I have them in hand. Upon testing and configuring, I will decide if I use them, but if Not, I will BUY and use red ones.

Lastly I am still hoping I may here from someone in Florida that has accomplished this bureaucratic shuffle within the past two years.

Later,

Dennis

The combo red and yellow lights I was going to use did not pan out so as you have seen, I used the marker lights mounted on the aluminum "Fin" i fabricated. The tail and brake lights are red and the turn signals are yellow. I then added the white LED strip for license plate light which was required.

 

[Risk Man]

The build has finally begun. After delivery of my bike two weeks ago while I was out of town, I finally got a day into the project Saturday unboxing and fumbling around with a box of mixed up parts and no diagrams, check lists or any guidance of how to assemble the forks or the disc brakes all which are "new fangled" to this old bike builder of the 1980's.

After the first few runs, it was obvious my initial impression that both the front and back wheels were way out of round. Bikeberry refused to address this issue so I guess my only choice is removal and truing either pay a bike shop or do it my self. At some point when the money bleeding stops, I may pick up the solid spoke aluminum wheels

 

[Risk Man]

Thanks Diesel... good suggestion. I am trying to have a complete integrated build. I think I have some options for sure.

The waterproof battery box ended up fitting between the two fork tubes between the top crown cap and bottom cap bracket. Just need a cleaner retention method as the elastic "zip ties" don't look very good.

 

[Cavity]

I used the double brake lever with brake light switch for both the front and rear disc breaks, Works very well. The two wires are "normally open". They close or short out with actuation. I put a small resister between the tail light positive connection knocking the brightness of the lights down a bit. The closure of the brake light switch just jumpers the resister so the light burn brighter (bull load) simple and very effective.

I've got hydraulic brakes front and back, haven't figured out a way to work in a brake light switch yet.

 

[Wrench]

I've got hydraulic brakes front and back, haven't figured out a way to work in a brake light switch yet.

There are bicycle hydraulic brake levers with a stop light switch, I've seen em on E Bay

 

[Chainlube]

I've got hydraulic brakes front and back, haven't figured out a way to work in a brake light switch yet.

M/C brake levers have the switch already there, easy to find too.

 

[Slow Ride]

I digress.... before I even started assembling my bike, I wanted a stable stand for it. I found a U-tube channel of a fixit guy who had this well designed (though could be simpler) bike stand front and rear. (I decided not to build the rear yet) It even disassembles for storage... Working very well for me including while up on the assembly bench.

That wouldn't be the old Mustie1 would it ? LOL

 

[Risk Man]

After having used a temporary tank strapped to my back rack to run my motor before transporting it for inspection, I put gas for the first time in the built-in tank frame. While I was pouring it slowly, I looked down and saw gas running on to the floor under the bottom bracket. Thought it was the petcock, was not. It was a bad (missing spot underneath) weld to the seat tube and the back end of the tank. I know there are many fixes, but I am darned if I am going to settle for a defective "complete motor ready bike" with a repaired tank. It is the only reason I bought this frame. Oh my........

 

[Wrench]

I know your disappointed in the frame company, I would be too
Let us know how their customer service treats you and the solution they offer

Ask the company for a new frame, They might send you one and let you keep the frame with the bad weld.
I hope you score another frame for all your troubles

I would pay $20 and have the hole tig welded, It's a very small job.

 

[Wrench]

After having used a temporary tank strapped to my back rack to run my motor before transporting it for inspection, I put gas for the first time in the built-in tank frame. While I was pouring it slowly, I looked down and saw gas running on to the floor under the bottom bracket. Thought it was the petcock, was not. It was a bad (missing spot underneath) weld to the seat tube and the back end of the tank. I know there are many fixes, but I am darned if I am going to settle for a defective "complete motor ready bike" with a repaired tank. It is the only reason I bought this frame. Oh my........

No quality control in China, they didn't even pressure test the gas tank.

You can tell by looking at the welds that the guy was a good welder
He would of known to pay attention especially welding the gas tank
I think it was done on purpose by an unhappy worker in China

I can understand if it was a pin hole, But no welder is gonna miss a hole that big by mistake.