Died&wont start

[Chainlube]

I would go back to the old carb, get it to start and idle, run the low idle screw out until you have a fairly high idle, but constant and even. Shut her down and let it cool off then start it again in an hour or so, see if it starts without a prime. Then from there set the idle.

 

[Karl Snarl]

I did do what chainlube mentioned, I also adjusted fuel pump control lever height as well, but didn't help at that time. So I put another new carb on there with the same end results, bike wouldn't start, until I gave it a primer shot of fuel. Now this morning with new carb it hasn't messed up yet. For troubleshooting purposes, do you think I should try the old carb & see what happens? I'm one them that would like to know what the true issue was.

I would. I was swapping carbs in and out ( same carb model) trying to deal with the ring ting idle. Thought the nitro ate my carb. Nope, carb was fine. It was the timing. If its starting with a shot o gas, I'd think to lean or clogged carb. You went through and checked carb though. Are the orings on the adjusters cracked or squished? I torqued to tight and had to replace the low side one, I smashed it. It wouldn't let enough fuel or to much till I replaced the bad oring.

 

[Chainlube]

The pulse port should be a tiny hole right beside the throttle plate, I don't think the hole you framed before has anything to do with it.

 

[Karl Snarl]

I would. I was swapping carbs in and out ( same carb model) trying to deal with the ring ting idle. Thought the nitro ate my carb. Nope, carb was fine. It was the timing. If its starting with a shot o gas, I'd think to lean or clogged carb. You went through and checked carb though. Are the orings on the adjusters cracked or squished? I torqued to tight and had to replace the low side one, I smashed it. It wouldn't let enough fuel or to much till I replaced the bad oring.

Got me wondering, you're not running it like the one you had a crank break on, are ya? Because that engine was ran lean and mean, by looking at the piston. If you are running this one like that, it could be just to lean or about to eat rings or bearings.

 

[DieselTech]

No the one that broke crank wasnt mine, Lol, no I'm not running it like that one. It was a friends of mine. I'm getting ready to go see how mine starts, the settings are richer on this new carb compared to old carb, but close to the original settings I had on old carb. Yeah I'm curious what was going on to.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Can only be no gas, no air, no spark, no flow. How's the exhaust looking?

 

[DieselTech]

Well bike started & ran just fine all day. I'm thinking something in old carb causing a block. There is only 1 part of carb I didn't take apart, there is a 3/8 welch plug I didn't remove that covers the idle discharge port fuel circuit. I got welch plugs coming now & a genuine tillotson rebuild kit.

 

[Karl Snarl]

What kinda rpms are you spinning on yours? I'm keeping mine below 7k. I have the pipe set to peak around 6k. With the extra retard I'm able to use all that 1k over rev. I don't usually ride her at full power though. 4-5k is where she cruises.

 

[DieselTech]

I'd say its spinning in that 7000 range, but I kept it well below that prolly 5500-6000 rpm. I mainly putt around town, with some long blips of the throttle occasionally. I'm looking at getting tachometer & cylinder head temp gauge, for piece of mind.

 

[Zachary_]

Just went & checked squish its .74mm or .0285" so it's ok still, I also verified in the dark it's got good blue spark. Plug was damp but not wet. I guess I got a couple more new carbs I can try.

What is squish I’m new to these bikes