Dio reed oko 21mm carb

FNTPuck is no longer here, highly doubt he'll be calling you! Drilling out the idle circuit is the wrong thing to do, it's not needed and makes no improvement at all. Air leaks are the biggest issue with reed setups then being jetted properly takes riding it and seeing how it responds to input through out the range. Reed setups require a much larger idle jet, the needle position tuned for good transition between idle and part throttle then the main jet, it's best to start too big (rich) and go down until it just cleans up with little to no four stroking under load, no load or fixed throttle position should just slightly burble and all will be good!
So don't drill the hole just get a bigger pilot jet. so if my engine bogs when i accelerate it bogs what should i do go on a bigger jet i have tried changing the fuel-air ratio screw and it did do a little bit better but not much.

Ps i have stock everything but i think I have is a little bit over porting on the intake and exhaust and a little bit of smoothing on the transfer. I Have taken out the baffle of the stock exhaust so it's just a pipe that connects to a bigger pipe then it goes out the little hole at the bottom and that's it everything is sealed what should I do???
 
So don't drill the hole just get a bigger pilot jet. so if my engine bogs when i accelerate it bogs what should i do go on a bigger jet i have tried changing the fuel-air ratio screw and it did do a little bit better but not much.

Ps i have stock everything but i think I have is a little bit over porting on the intake and exhaust and a little bit of smoothing on the transfer. I Have taken out the baffle of the stock exhaust so it's just a pipe that connects to a bigger pipe then it goes out the little hole at the bottom and that's it everything is sealed what should I do???
No don't drill it, a bigger pilot jet and adjust the needle position will smooth it out. The air/fuel screw is only for idle's ratio.
 
No don't drill it, a bigger pilot jet and adjust the needle position will smooth it out. The air/fuel screw is only for idle's ratio.
thanks man im suck on how to mount this carb because im not using a reed valve on im stuck on how to mount it
 
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You may have to make a custom intake, or use a header section with rubber coupling.
Hey, man I'm running the carb without a reed valve and I can't seem to get it to idle what do you think is wrong?
It will idle for a little bit after I stop and then It dies and then I have to choke it to get it running And yes I have tried the air-fuel screw and nothing works. Man I really need help Idk if it's running too rich at low rpm or to lean

Stuff i have checked
Float height is good i adjusted
No air leaks
Cable is good
seals are good
Jets are cleaned
Basic i took the whole carb apart inspected it and cleaned anything i see that had a passage.

Ps the float line is parallel to the body of the carb

You have to click on the image to full screen it
 

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Hey, man I'm running the carb without a reed valve and I can't seem to get it to idle what do you think is wrong?
It will idle for a little bit after I stop and then It dies and then I have to choke it to get it running And yes I have tried the air-fuel screw and nothing works. Man I really need help Idk if it's running too rich at low rpm or to lean

Stuff i have checked
Float height is good i adjusted
No air leaks
Cable is good
seals are good
Jets are cleaned
Basic i took the whole carb apart inspected it and cleaned anything i see that had a passage.

Ps the float line is parallel to the body of the carb

You have to click on the image to full screen it
Too rich will still run and too lean will rev higher than wanted and die out. If you have to choke for restart then it's too lean, larger pilot jet and or raise the needle along with getting the a/f mixture screw set, if your trying to attain an idle that is too low it also will die out as these tend to like 1100 or more rpm to sustain a good idle.
 
Too rich will still run and too lean will rev higher than wanted and die out. If you have to choke for restart then it's too lean, larger pilot jet and or raise the needle along with getting the a/f mixture screw set, if your trying to attain an idle that is too low it also will die out as these tend to like 1100 or more rpm to sustain a good idle.
i will try what you just said thanks!
 
Quick question, back to the 1mm+ hole after the pilot valve. It's an emulsion tube, so not just the fuel but an emulsion of fuel would be getting drawn up through it.

Wouldn't there be an ideal diameter for that chanel based mostly, perhaps off it's vacuum at idle? (Temp and premix ratio not withstanding)
 
Quick question, back to the 1mm+ hole after the pilot valve. It's an emulsion tube, so not just the fuel but an emulsion of fuel would be getting drawn up through it.

Wouldn't there be an ideal diameter for that chanel based mostly, perhaps off it's vacuum at idle? (Temp and premix ratio not withstanding)
First it depends on the carb as not all have an emulsion tube then emulsion or emulsified is the process of the tube then in a 2 stroke there really is no vacuum there it's a pulse of atmospheric pressure and it's volume and the jet's metering determine the amount of fuel pulled up through it, messing with these is very bad if you don't understand the process, enlarging the dia will slow the pull and reduce volume not increase it and to small will be faster but with reduced volume.
 
DO NOT DO THIS !!! This is BS and the people that started this crap info have no clue!!This passage is allready twice the size of the pilot jet and it's the pilot jet which meters the fuel flow through it not the size of the passage way,you have to know how to tune this type of carb properly to get the best performance from it!
Listen to the man, he knows what he is talking about, DO NOT DRILL on your carb, you will ruin it. 35 year diesel mechanic, build race cars, and all the a above. Do not drill on the carb.
 
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