direct hit spark

[foyeburger]

here is the stock plug gap Remove spark plug and inspect for excess carbon build up. Clean, re-gap to .028- .034 of an inch if necessary. Check plug after every 20 hours of operation. New spark plugs are available from your selling dealer. Be careful using aftermarket spark plugs as heat range and threads differ greatly. Extra plug is included with kit.

 

[gone_fishin]

so...about .025 with the directhits?

 

[foyeburger]

yeah i'd say that i just measured a ngkb7hs plug out of the box and it was about .o25 anyway so im not even going to mess with it call it .025 done larry ca

 

[Butch]

I thought I'd share this reply from Lou at DirectHit in case anybody who orders the DirectHit capacitor is wondering about the directions showing a star washer for installation.

Butch
We no longer include or use the star washer. It was originally included to
be used on longer than ISO standard spark plugs. Most plugs are now ISO and the washer is not required

Lou


To: info@enerpulse.com
Subject: Question about S80 capacitor

Hi, I received my S80 DirectHit capacitor today. On the back of the
package it shows a star washer being installed between the spark plug and
the capacitor. I didn't get this washer with the capacitor and am
wondering if this is a necessary part? Thank you.
Butch

 

[foyeburger]

cool i was thinking there wasnt one in there but wasnt sure it looks like it was meant to fit without one anyway but to play it safe went and got the washer but now dont need it cool thanks for checking that out larry ca
let us know what you think also on the direct hit i like it

 

[Guest]

THINGS TO DO IF YOU CAN'T BUY A "DIRECT HIT"

1. Use a non-resistor plug. It's easy to tell, it won't have an "R" in the number/letter system. Good for an approx. 15% increase in spark all by itself. The resistor part of the plug kills spark, and noise. Do you run a radio on your bike? I didn't think so.

2. Gap @ .25-.28.

Use a quality ignition wire from a motorcycle/car/whatever. The thicker core and insulation will help increase the spark and be more reliable in the wet.

I used to get my Harleys fouled plugs to relight by pulling the wire/cap off and holding it a half inch from the plug....this increases voltage and cause a much hotter spark. You could do this with a regular plug, but it eats the metal inside the boot.

3. Save 50 bucks.

 

[Guest]

P.S.- there is no magic power bullet that will increase POWER by any percentage- ie, you won't get your 5 hp. to perform like a 7 h.p. engine.

You will get a cleaner burn and longer spark plug life, posible easier starting and smoother running.

The "Direct hit" works because you are optimizing the spark. You can do the same by using the "tricks" I listed above.

Fire away!

 

[Guest]

Oh yeah, never remove a plug from a HOT engine, and always use a bit of "Never Seize" when replacing the plug (NOT GREASE OR OIL!!!)....available at just about any auto parts store. You can buy it in a little .99 cent pouch that should last you a looong time. Or spend the 6 bucks for the lifetime supply.

 

[Goat Herder]

Was cruising through Google today and ran into this old Thread thought I would share my experience is all..


I have been using the same D.H. on my bikes since about 2008. It saw two China's and now resides right at home on a slightly modded Morini S6S now . NGK B8EGV for My Morini. Got about 8000 miles on the Direct Hit and it has seen 4 different plugs. I suppose I could go to a little hotter plug on the M. something closer to a 5 heat range for my high altitude?

Thing is I was fouling plugs a little at prolonged Idle because the reed valves need a pretty rich fuel mixture for Idle. Never fouled plug again. It smooths out the entire lower RPM power band. If I take it out the engine does a weaker run for me. Just gave me a very tiny bit more pep over all. No it is not a big ol H.P bolt on lol. but it smoothed every thing out for me sustainably that I continue to use it..

It had smoothed out the china's for me as well here at my elevation..

Part of my Voodoo is I take a small dab of sliver print paint to my connection terminal at the plug thread end that mates with the D.H. and a light film of High temp RTV to the spark plug porcelain for guaranteed insulation. Twist the D.H. on the plug and I friggen forget about it. Doubt it really needs that much intimate attention just something I do.

They make these or invented them at http://www.sandia.gov/ N.M. in my home town.

Something I got to see in the local Napa parts store back in 2008 that left a big impression on me..was a Pulstar spark plug hooked up to the same coil. This was a duel firing spark plug coil. So the display could not be tangibly fair and correct. An ordinary Auto light plug on one side and a clear plexiglass display box and the Pulstar plug on the other side.

Could press a button both plugs firing at the same time and see the Pulstar plug was was so much brighter that available oxygen in the air next to it in the display case began to leave tiny smoke trialling like an idle cigarette right at the plug electrode. The other plug did not do this. That Puls plug was like the light of the sun to me . lol.

So I have just used the D.H. as it lets me pick out a plug combination that I like to go with it. Rather than a Pulse plug. Yes I have grounded the the plug to the engine case and observed spark with and with out it. The spark was very visibly brighter. I have road with and with out it. Well shoot ''shrug'' it is right back on there. lol.



https://www.google.com/search?q=dir...fficial&client=firefox-a&source=hp&channel=np

 

[Fabian]

So we have two factors at play with this system: capacitor, higher resistance and reduced spark plug gap.

This is quite telling for at the end of the day you can't get something for nothing.
A hotter spark will be generated through higher load on the ignition system. Considering the ignition system is already weak, the author of the original explanation mentions closing up the spark plug gap to reduce load on the ignition system.

I am not an electrical engineer but my understanding is that voltage builds to the point that it can overcome the air gap and pass to the ground electrode. In the process of building this peak voltage, an EMF is created and when the air gap is crossed, the EMF collapses into the wire windings of a spark plug lead to provide a path to ground for the EMF. Magnecor leads are well known for using a high number of windings in their leads to capture the EMF.

I am not convinced that the D.H. system would provide a hotter spark because the spark plug gap is reduced, thereby lowering the voltage that the capacitor would discharge as opposed to keeping the standard plug gap.

It may be a case of lower resistance over the spark plug electrodes but higher resistance through the capacitor vs just having a nominal level of resistance through a standard plug gap.
In a compromised ignition system, this method may be like having 6 of one or half a dozen of the other.

Can someone with an excellent knowledge of electrical engineering please see through my logic if indeed it is flawed.

Fabian