Direction to top legal speed advice..

[Street Ryderz]

Do they make pre-made jet kits for these things intend on staying away from a drill in this area.

They do but I'm using an OKO clone at 24mm and the pilot jets I received with it (#43,#45,#48) are all a little small for my set up so I use the # 48 drilled out to around #50 now and the #45 will get drilled out to a #49 for next summer.

 

[6blueoval9]

Oz super magneto motor works $19.99 more winds on the magneto versus stock....


The plug kit I saw on there comes with clutch pads should I buy that kit ngk boot 6hs, 7hs, and 8hs?


Sounds like a good deal for $16.00 but how quick do clutch pads wear out?


Also carburetor upgrades are always good even if not beneficial high quality = less chance of float sticking.

As for expansion chambers what are some good brands under $100.00?

I want one that is fair but not so large it's a "police magnet" even an exhaust that is similar to a dual exhaust or chopper style.

What plug you need should be decided by the temps in your area...With NGK, the lower the number the hotter the plug or maybe opposite I forget..lol

If it's really cold the 6 might be a better choice...something like the 60 70s maybe the 7 and 80s up I'd try the 8...this isn't set in stone but more less showing you how to decide on a plug range.

Clutch shoes have nothing to do with the Magneto....you can buy heavy duty clutch shoes which are nothing more than semi metallic automotive brake pads cut up to fit the big wheel.

Considering your only wanting to hit maybe 35 mph tops I would try the Zeda66 pipe which is only $49.99 and is designed to work with stock to mildly modded engines...it's a true expansion chamber none the less so it's worth a look.

You can get the MZ65 pipe which is in the $80 range and I'm thinking it's more for midrange to top end on a moderately modified engine.

Neither pipe will be perfect for your motor but I feel the zeda66 pipe would give you that low end and midrange you need.

Do some basic and simple cylinder clean up and I think you would be happy even with a stock carb and intake...getting a longer intake would work even better...I'm just going to use a hose to extend my intake length using the aluminum intake.

You can get the Keihin clone 16mm carbs for $20 or less if you really want a bigger carb...just make sure you use the steel intake and not the aluminum one unless you don't mind boring the inlet side out...I have one I bored to 15mm and still have plenty of meat left to get maybe 17mm from it.

Good luck finding the adapter needed however for the bolt on flange with the Keihin clone carbs.

 

[Street Ryderz]

Hitting 35 on a stock engine is not hard more the norm.Having max torque and acceleration like the poster stated he wants requires extra work done,Blue build your bike and run your engine the way your going to so you actualy know how these engines work in their stock form then I'll bet you will be singing a different tune.Neither one of those pipes will be best suited to making bottom end torque in their stock form, both will need header length added to stage them lower and put the power band where it's usable before the top end and considering he only wants to go 35 or turn less than 8,000 rpm high peak dump pipes are usless.Remember a stock engine can turn 10,000-11,000 properly set up and that's what those pipes are designed for.

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

What plug you need should be decided by the temps in your area...With NGK, the lower the number the hotter the plug or maybe opposite I forget..lol

If it's really cold the 6 might be a better choice...something like the 60 70s maybe the 7 and 80s up I'd try the 8...this isn't set in stone but more less showing you how to decide on a plug range.

Clutch shoes have nothing to do with the Magneto....you can buy heavy duty clutch shoes which are nothing more than semi metallic automotive brake pads cut up to fit the big wheel.

Considering your only wanting to hit maybe 35 mph tops I would try the Zeda66 pipe which is only $49.99 and is designed to work with stock to mildly modded engines...it's a true expansion chamber none the less so it's worth a look.

You can get the MZ65 pipe which is in the $80 range and I'm thinking it's more for midrange to top end on a moderately modified engine.

Neither pipe will be perfect for your motor but I feel the zeda66 pipe would give you that low end and midrange you need.

Do some basic and simple cylinder clean up and I think you would be happy even with a stock carb and intake...getting a longer intake would work even better...I'm just going to use a hose to extend my intake length using the aluminum intake.

You can get the Keihin clone 16mm carbs for $20 or less if you really want a bigger carb...just make sure you use the steel intake and not the aluminum one unless you don't mind boring the inlet side out...I have one I bored to 15mm and still have plenty of meat left to get maybe 17mm from it.

Good luck finding the adapter needed however for the bolt on flange with the Keihin clone carbs.

I remember correct higher numbers hot lower is colder.. typically speaking WA climate about 32F- 55F through winter to spring and 70F- 95F from summer to fall.

The B8HS is highly not needed as previously I had a moped that would run on from 6-7hs but not for crap on 8hs with a chipped bore skirt why it failed is because of being over eager to drive the 2t resulting in improper break in fallowed by seizure.

As for the old bike, plan on filling and welding my mistakes shut to put it up for sale for $150.00 to get back some of the cash lost.

Can't wait to get "The Realm" bike this time with a 2t I'll do the break in on a timed slow break in since 500km is only 300 miles by Google standards.

It's still a nice bike just throw the rest of the paint on it.

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

Hitting 35 on a stock engine is not hard more the norm.Having max torque and acceleration like the poster stated he wants requires extra work done,Blue build your bike and run your engine the way your going to so you actualy know how these engines work in their stock form then I'll bet you will be singing a different tune.Neither one of those pipes will be best suited to making bottom end torque in their stock form, both will need header length added to stage them lower and put the power band where it's usable before the top end and considering he only wants to go 35 or turn less than 8,000 rpm high peak dump pipes are usless.Remember a stock engine can turn 10,000-11,000 properly set up and that's what those pipes are designed for.

I don't like the stock pipe I hear they suck badly and fall apart very quickly.

Sound is what I prefer in performance, as well as the ability to breathe.

Ever heard a stock hemi next to a performance hemi?

You can hear, feel, plus see the difference between each charger.

 

[6blueoval9]

Hitting 35 on a stock engine is not hard more the norm.Having max torque and acceleration like the poster stated he wants requires extra work done,Blue build your bike and run your engine the way your going to so you actualy know how these engines work in their stock form then I'll bet you will be singing a different tune.Neither one of those pipes will be best suited to making bottom end torque in their stock form, both will need header length added to stage them lower and put the power band where it's usable before the top end and considering he only wants to go 35 or turn less than 8,000 rpm high peak dump pipes are usless.Remember a stock engine can turn 10,000-11,000 properly set up and that's what those pipes are designed for.

So the $49 dollar zeda66 pipe is designed for a 10k rpm stock motor?....I don't think most ever see past 7k and that pipe is designed for a stock or mildy modded engine as you've even stated before....I doubt I'll see 10k rpm and you know I'm going through alot of efforts to go as fast as I can using all stock parts minus crazy high rpm only porting and timing changes.

So what would your suggestion be for a torque pipe that will never see 10k rpm?

Maybe a pitbike exhaust for $25.00?

 

[6blueoval9]

I remember correct higher numbers hot lower is colder.. typically speaking WA climate about 32F- 55F through winter to spring and 70F- 95F from summer to fall.

The B8HS is highly not needed as previously I had a moped that would run on from 6-7hs but not for crap on 8hs with a chipped bore skirt why it failed is because of being over eager to drive the 2t resulting in improper break in fallowed by seizure.

As for the old bike, plan on filling and welding my mistakes shut to put it up for sale for $150.00 to get back some of the cash lost.

Can't wait to get "The Realm" bike this time with a 2t I'll do the break in on a timed slow break in since 500km is only 300 miles by Google standards.

It's still a nice bike just throw the rest of the paint on it.

Go with a 7 then (middle ground) and play from there.

 

[6blueoval9]

I don't like the stock pipe I hear they suck badly and fall apart very quickly.

Sound is what I prefer in performance, as well as the ability to breathe.

Ever heard a stock hemi next to a performance hemi?

You can hear, feel, plus see the difference between each charger.

Apparently nobody makes a good enough pipe and youll have to cut and chop it all up to work for your bike even over a stock exhaust so, I'll have to retract my recommendation of the Zeda pipe and just say I don't know where to find a pipe that will increase low end and midrange torque.

 

[gary55]

View media item 59990

Apparently nobody makes a good enough pipe and youll have to cut and chop it all up to work for your bike even over a stock exhaust so, I'll have to retract my recommendation of the Zeda pipe and just say I don't know where to find a pipe that will increase low end and midrange torque.

The pipe on the top is a good mid range pipe. mz also caries these. The long primary and 2 stage diverging cone gives them strong low and mid range torque. You can easily fab your own muffler to fit.
View media item 60562View media item 60094

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

Apparently nobody makes a good enough pipe and youll have to cut and chop it all up to work for your bike even over a stock exhaust so, I'll have to retract my recommendation of the Zeda pipe and just say I don't know where to find a pipe that will increase low end and midrange torque.

Ouch....! yeah I noticed the zeda is a banana pipe so there still would be baffles?

Either way pipe mods wouldn't hurt to much I'm aware it's not a race car...

There will be some winners and some whiners.... very focused on its performance.

Last but not least it boils down to heads, porting and rejetting.