Disc brake conversion fork?

[Zomby Builder]

Best Bike Shop

I feel the pain. The best shop laughed at the heavy weight forks on my Whizz. Hope the Ambass. is better. Hydros only for real stops. Looks easily adaptable.

I really like the retro look.. But the technology behind these bikes is so far gone - that the MTN forks will out perform them while sleeping.

I ask AGAIN..... Where is WILLY-G-WHIZZER

 

[MotorbikeMike]

Drum and coaster

Hi Peter. I have always had reasonable sucess stopping my 05 Whizzer. Now granted it is all flat here. I weigh 275, and ride my factory bike most of the time 23-28 mph because I like the sound and feel of the engine there.

I can and do ride faster, and sucessfully stop. I would love to shift my Whizzer, mostly to keep RPM down, and have that feel at a bit more speed.

I know that MFG parts sometimes change over years of production. Have you checked your front brake to see if you have full engagement of the lining? IF your lining is not in full contact with the drum (we used to "arc-grind" our brake shoes in the FlatHead Ford days) then you will only have the percentage of stopping power equal to the contact area on the shoes.

I hope this concept helps someone.

Mike

 

[peter nap]

I haven't checked them Mike. So far, I've let the dealers work on them. Dealer 1 is inexperienced but dealer 2 has 30 years experience as a motorcycle mechanic. These are band brakes and I do need to pull one apart to see how they work.

It is impossible to lock either wheel up to a skid. To give you an idea how bad the back brake is, dealer 1 unscrewed it by holding the brake lever and backing down a ramp. (He had not locktited it). The brake was completely inoperable.

I didn't notice for a long time because it just barely slows you on the best days. I have come close to rear ending cars at speeds as low as 15mph.

The brakes are by far, the biggest complaint I have and I am amazed Whizzer hasn't been sued over an accident.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

I can give everyone a little information to improve the front drum brake. Use a hack saw and cut grooves approx 1/16" deep across the shoes, but place the grooves at an angle. Cut the groove so that the area nearest the spokes is aimed towards the rear, it will cause the brake "dust" to exit the hub. Often the "dust" will cause the brake to "sqeal", and if enough is keep inside the hub it can also reduce the performance. The simple little grooves, also help the brake shoes grip inside the hub. I depend on the front brakes far more than I do the rear, in fact I only use the rear to make the stop more stable. Just in case anyone anyone wants to try disc brakes without spending a small fortune, I purchased several old Schwinn disc brakes setups [on ebay] and will easily adapt to the Whizzer front forks [not the Ambassador model].
Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton "Lee" Guenther

 

[peter nap]

Thanks Quenton. That's a good suggestion and now that you mention it, brake dust has always been a common cause of problems in brakes.

I wish all Whizzer dealers were as well informed as you, Bill and Mike!

 

[fsprandy]

I don't know what the inside diameter of the head tube is but here is some information I found at nashbar.com on the sizing of threadless headsets:

Headset size is determined by the outside diameter of the steerer tube on the fork. The most common sizes are: 1" and 1-1/8". If you only have the frame and no fork, you can determine the correct size headset and fork you'll need by measuring the inside diameter of the frame's headtube:

30.2mm headtube inside diameter = 1" headset and fork.
34.0mm headtube inside diameter = 1 1/8" headset and fork

 

[MotorbikeMike]

Whizzer Rear Brake

Hi, as much as anything this is for Peter. The rear Band brake on the Whizzer auto-clutch was superseded by an improved two-shoe model. Thea earliest versions of the band had the rivets set too high, and failed prematurely.

The later bands (bonded linings) work ok, but the 2 shoe expanding is very noticeably more powerful, and the upgrade is Worth it. The front brake is 2-shoe also.

To my knowledge, there is no manufacturing of Whizzer parts in China, it is all proprietary in Taiwan, ad much nicer results than China.

Mike

 

[fsprandy]

If these are made in Taiwan they're doing a heck of a job of mimicking Chinese quality. Take the carburetors for instance. Two of the brands I've seen them use are "Kiehan" (not Keihin) and "Kinhin" (also not Keihin) which look for all the world like a poor attempt at copying a Keihin (very good Japanese) carb. These brands (misspelled Keihin's) are also used on the cheap Chinese motorbikes.

 

[DadNamedSteve]

I can give everyone a little information to improve the front drum brake. Use a hack saw and cut grooves approx 1/16" deep across the shoes, but place the grooves at an angle. Cut the groove so that the area nearest the spokes is aimed towards the rear, it will cause the brake "dust" to exit the hub. Often the "dust" will cause the brake to "sqeal", and if enough is keep inside the hub it can also reduce the performance. The simple little grooves, also help the brake shoes grip inside the hub. I depend on the front brakes far more than I do the rear, in fact I only use the rear to make the stop more stable. Just in case anyone anyone wants to try disc brakes without spending a small fortune, I purchased several old Schwinn disc brakes setups [on ebay] and will easily adapt to the Whizzer front forks [not the Ambassador model].
Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton "Lee" Guenther

Can you help me identify replacement brake shoes for a 1949 Pacemaker Loopframe with 5” rear and 3.5” front brakes?

Any advice will help

Thanks