Disc brake questions

This is what I'm talking about.
BBR Tuning Rear Heavy Duty 12 Gauge 26 Inch x 1.5 Inch Rim - (Black Freewheel Disc-Brake Ready) https://a.co/d/bBEHy9o
Ask the seller if they're double-walled. Ask if they're coned bearings. If so ask if the axles are cro-molly.
 
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I got the wheel. It seems good and strong. Some of the spokes were loose so I adjusted those. Now I need a longer brake cable. I ordered one. It should come tomorrow.
 
I got the wheel. It seems good and strong. Some of the spokes were loose so I adjusted those. Now I need a longer brake cable. I ordered one. It should come tomorrow.
Did you make sure the rim is in the proper position on the hub so it can be centered correctly? Did you also make sure the rim is true both vertically and horizontally? If you had several loose spokes these things need to be checked. Death wobbles are a very scary thing.
 
Did you make sure the rim is in the proper position on the hub so it can be centered correctly? Did you also make sure the rim is true both vertically and horizontally? If you had several loose spokes these things need to be checked. Death wobbles are a very scary thing.
It's close to true. Once I get the brakes together I will make adjustments as needed. The wheel that came with the bike was all wonky, so I'm glad I got a replacement.
 
It's close to true. Once I get the brakes together I will make adjustments as needed. The wheel that came with the bike was all wonky, so I'm glad I got a replacement.
Looks can be very deceiving. It may very well need to be dished. I can generally get a rim within a millimeter of movement both vertically and horizontally. This can only be done if you have a dishing tool and a truing stand.

Fortunately, you don't have to have very expensive equipment to become a good wheel builder. I paid around $120 for a spoke tension tester, spoke tightener, dishing tool, and truing stand; all from eBay.
 
It's close to true. Once I get the brakes together I will make adjustments as needed. The wheel that came with the bike was all wonky, so I'm glad I got a replacement.
Looks can be very deceiving. It may very well need to be dished. I can generally get a rim within a millimeter of movement both vertically and horizontally. This can only be done if you have a dishing tool and a truing stand.

Fortunately, you don't have to have very expensive equipment to become a good wheel builder. I paid around $120 for a spoke tension tester, spoke tightener, dishing tool, and truing stand; all from eBay.
And some folks still wonder why I am a firm believer in my mag wheels for street riding...lol....2.5 years and 1500 miles on them so far and have required me to do nothing to them...lol.
 
And some folks still wonder why I am a firm believer in my mag wheels for street riding...lol....2.5 years and 1500 miles on them so far and have required me to do nothing to them...lol.
If you use Sapim, DT, or WheelSmith spokes you tend to get a wheel that'll last for years and keep true. With the 3 brands, their 14 gauge is stronger than department store 10 gauge spokes.
 
If you use Sapim, DT, or WheelSmith spokes you tend to get a wheel that'll last for years and keep true. With the 3 brands, their 14 gauge is stronger than department store 10 gauge spokes.
And at "what cost"???...I did price those much more expensive spoked rims and you still have to true them periodically as well...Mags are much cheaper to buy and there is just almost zero maintenance to them...Heck, even my wheel bearings haven't loosened in all this time,,,They are still just as straight and true and free spinning with no play in them at all, just as good as the day I first put them on.
 
And at "what cost"???...I did price those much more expensive spoked rims and you still have to true them periodically as well...Mags are much cheaper to buy and there is just almost zero maintenance to them...Heck, even my wheel bearings haven't loosened in all this time,,,They are still just as straight and true and free spinning with no play in them at all, just as good as the day I first put them on.
When I put a Staton Inc hub on a double-walled steel rim, I used Sapim 14 gauge spokes and blue Loctite on them. I still have that wheel and the rim is still true. Held up 10 years. Did redesign the axle with sleeves because the original axle broke at a retainer ring groove. As for cost, it was over $300 for just a rear wheel; 12 years ago.

My current rear wheel which came with a stock double-walled rim on the Sidewinder cost around $70 to upgrade to Sapim spokes and a cro-molly axle.

Replacing spoke wheels with mags is a cheaper option it you don't have the equipment and skills to make extremely strong wheels.
 
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