Brakes Disc Brakes for a Beach Cruiser?

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What i want is an adapter that allows installation of a second Hayes 9" disk rotor and caliper assembly on the right hand side of the front fork.
Twin 9" front disk rotors would bring stopping power to an adequate level, because a single 9" front rotor and caliper barely does the job.
 
... Until some some skinny front fork bolt on caliper moved and bit into the disc and sent you over the handlebars.

Your bike, do your own thing bud, but they don't go to dual front discs on motorcycles until they hit 1K cc and can go 170 MPH, why you would need them on a MB just seems silly to me is all, and no, I don't know of a bolt on but look for a new front 'dual disc' fork, that would be your best bet which on my quick search is slim to none.
 
This is the reason why i need twin 9" front disk rotors; because a single 9 inch disk rotor and BB7 caliper doesn't do the job adequately and furthermore i can't respect your opinion when it comes to my safety.

Do a Google search for "Mt Baw Baw Hill Climb - March 2013" to read why my requirements necessitate a twin disk rotor setup, but the below photo tells part of the story:

 
My preference (if i could get the setup that i want) is to have twin 12" front disk rotors and twin BB7 calipers on each disk rotor.
 
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Switch to a hydraulic front brake from Avid and you'll have plenty of stopping power. All those pro mountain bikers can't be wrong.
 
old thread but as it's up here anyway.. dragging your front brake so it's barely braking on long downhills WILL heat the disk. So don't drag the brake: brake when you need to (and can) then let go of the brake, then repeat.
Better pads will perform better when hot than poor pads.
Even hydraulic will not give a huge amount of braking power if it's only a 2-pot (one brake pad each side) that's why they made 4-pot, then 6-pot disk brakes for mountainbikes.. then went back to 4-pot because they made better pads and disks.
I use Hope 2-pot hydraulics on my mountainbike, they're a very old closed system brake not made any more.. a classic in my eyes. Correctly adjusted they work fine and I adjust them while riding to compensate for fluid expansion. Mine are bolted onto the fork with a steel mount, it's just angle iron basically.. have to use that because the fork I have is a very old Marzocchi that I use because I have a love for that particular model with the easily adjusted original open oil bath design.. proper old school MX on my BMX. ;) heheheh :D
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Don't know how you'd get a right side brake since the caliper body is made to go on one side and one side only.. it's not symetrical.

but anyway.. old thread.. so how did it work out for you?
 
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old thread but as it's up here anyway.. dragging your front brake so it's barely braking on long downhills WILL heat the disk. So don't drag the brake: brake when you need to (and can) then let go of the brake, then repeat.
Better pads will perform better when hot than poor pads.
Even hydraulic will not give a huge amount of braking power if it's only a 2-pot (one brake pad each side) that's why they made 4-pot, then 6-pot disk brakes for mountainbikes.. then went back to 4-pot because they made better pads and disks.
I use Hope 2-pot hydraulics on my mountainbike, they're a very old closed system brake not made any more.. a classic in my eyes. Correctly adjusted they work fine and I adjust them while riding to compensate for fluid expansion. Mine are bolted onto the fork with a steel mount, it's just angle iron basically.. have to use that because the fork I have is a very old Marzocchi that I use because I have a love for that particular model with the easily adjusted original open oil bath design.. proper old school MX on my BMX. ;) heheheh :D
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Don't know how you'd get a right side brake since the caliper body is made to go on one side and one side only.. it's not symetrical.

but anyway.. old thread.. so how did it work out for you?
All of your posts seem very well informed so I will trust your advice, if your willing to offer it, on the subject of disc brakes. I have a Swinn Beach cruiser that has a serious safety issue concerning stopping power and I hope to install front disc brakes on the cruiser as soon as I know what exactly to buy. Problem is I'm not sure exactly what is needed for the install. I'm on a budget so I have no choice but to go with a disc brake adapter and go from there. I'd like to post some pics of what I think I'll need and if you can offer you input on if the items are doable then that'd be highly appreciated. So let me know if you can provide some feedback and I'll post the pics of the items I think will work. Thanks!
 
All of your posts seem very well informed so I will trust your advice, if your willing to offer it, on the subject of disc brakes. I have a Swinn Beach cruiser that has a serious safety issue concerning stopping power and I hope to install front disc brakes on the cruiser as soon as I know what exactly to buy. Problem is I'm not sure exactly what is needed for the install. I'm on a budget so I have no choice but to go with a disc brake adapter and go from there. I'd like to post some pics of what I think I'll need and if you can offer you input on if the items are doable then that'd be highly appreciated. So let me know if you can provide some feedback and I'll post the pics of the items I think will work. Thanks!
Well I'm getting educated on this engine stuff by the forum community, but I'll concede that my general knowledge of bicycles isn't bad. I'll be happy to put in my two cents of personal opinion and try not to steer you wrong.

I have no knowledge of springer fork set ups though. They are almost non existent in the UK.
You will be wise to use a powerful front brake only with an axle retaining washer (washer with a prong that fits a small hole in the fork to prevent the wheel pulling out of the dropout) or a "lawyer lip" fork dropout.

I can say that the best way I know to get bicycle parts on a budget is to watch lots of auction items simultaneously to grab the opportunity to buy older/unfashionable used parts under the average auction price. Goggle for reviews of anything you think looks interesting, and take your time waiting for a real bargain. If your wheel size is 26" there should be plenty of suitable wheels on the auction site. :)
 
Well I'm getting educated on this engine stuff by the forum community, but I'll concede that my general knowledge of bicycles isn't bad. I'll be happy to put in my two cents of personal opinion and try not to steer you wrong.

I have no knowledge of springer fork set ups though. They are almost non existent in the UK.
You will be wise to use a powerful front brake only with an axle retaining washer (washer with a prong that fits a small hole in the fork to prevent the wheel pulling out of the dropout) or a "lawyer lip" fork dropout.

I can say that the best way I know to get bicycle parts on a budget is to watch lots of auction items simultaneously to grab the opportunity to buy older/unfashionable used parts under the average auction price. Goggle for reviews of anything you think looks interesting, and take your time waiting for a real bargain. If your wheel size is 26" there should be plenty of suitable wheels on the auction site. :)
Yes I do have I 26" inch wheel. Attached are some pics of what I think I'll need to install front disc brakes. This first picture is of my front wheel/fork.

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Yes I do have I 26" inch wheel. Attached are some pics of what I think I'll need to install front disc brakes. This first picture is of my front wheel/fork.
Here's the pics of the parts.
 

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