Disk Brake Hub

Okay I got a reply from the seller on eBay, these lovely looking stainless steel "top hat" sprockets 28-48t have an offset of 11mm
(I asked the offset between the rotor mount face and the centre of the teeth. Presuming that he understood what I was asking) so if someone could measure their 110 O.L.D. single speed hub to clarify that this is the ideal offset??

He also said that he can produce these with a 15.5mm offset which is what I think is correct for the 135 O.L.D. multi speed hubs. I'm sure the .5 doesn't matter. I'll measure a couple of other 135mm hubs to check. Is anyone else interested in these? I think I will ask him to make a 40t or 41t for me. Obviously it would be great if others want these too, then it won't be a special one-off for me. I'd like your input please! :) :) :)


Edit: idk why I was measuring to the middle of the teeth anyway, makes more sense to do it by the inner face of the sprockets, easier to measure that way.

I'm not able to measure super accurately, but I think it's 35mm from inner face of the 10t to the centre line of the bike/engine mounts.
I have measured another 135mm hub and that was 52.5mm from the rotor mount face to the centre line of the bike.
Which suggests that an offset of 17.5mm (measured from the inner face of the 6 hole mount to the inner face of the sprocket) is ideal (and can be reduced by using thin disc brake indexing washers if necessary). What do you think?

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I think I can ditch the oversized Chinese clamshell adapter and 3-hole 36t without even bothering to try them out. More spare crap for the box in my cellar haha. :) :) :)
 
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There was a couple years around 2010 many of the kits I bought were shipped with sprockets that had 2 hole sets, one for ragjoint one for disc, on the stock sprocket.

It's a good way, however required lots of tightening despite lockwashers and locktite, likely because of the small torque area.
 
There was a couple years around 2010 many of the kits I bought were shipped with sprockets that had 2 hole sets, one for ragjoint one for disc, on the stock sprocket.

It's a good way, however required lots of tightening despite lockwashers and locktite, likely because of the small torque area.

Those sprockets, which I have been referring to as the 6and9 pattern, are still available. However they have zero offset, or just that tiny bit like a mm right below the teeth that standard kit sprockets have. They are just basically flat sprockets. So on a common 135 O.L.D. MTB hub they are about 17mm further left than the engine sprocket.
I can only imagine that there's some solid alloy single speed 110 O.L.D. wheels made for the MB market that those really work well on. I expect all spoked wheels have the rotor mount far enough from the centre line that they need at least some "top hat" offset in the sprocket.
But then I don't yet know how much misalignment you can get away with. I'd rather have no misalignment, rear sprocket directly behind the front.
The side benefit is more room for a rear disc brake if you want one.

I think I'm just going to ask him tomorrow, to make a 40t with 17.5mm offset for me. Either that or a four arm 104 mm BCD spider I've been thinking about.. I keep flip flopping on this though, partly why I wanted to discuss. I'm sure I will end up with both!
Edit: a simple top hat shape with 17.5mm offset won't clear the spokes, so the offset is either limited to 15mm, or more than just a simple top hat shape. I suppose at 15mm it's not far off from the position of the front sprocket, actually it's just right for a four bolt spider... o_O
 
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Tommy .: A TOP HAT doesnt bolt up a stock disc roter and caliper to the stock frame mounts W/O grinding or shiming or worse.
AHub adapter will inherintly place the chain plate in the same proximity as the caliper. Two pieces at the same place in time just dont work!!! I have designed and built the answer to your dreams! Its been runing on and off road in Alaska, for 16 months W no problems.
You can find me on Face book. Cinder Clause
 
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