CrazyDan
Well-Known Member
It used to be sold individually, not just in the 2 stroke kit. Would be nice to have that option when I finally decide to upgrade my 4 stroke kit. Something tells me they are low on stock and only selling it in the kit.
We are out of stock, technically. White was supposed to ship 100+ two Fridays back, is shipping this coming Friday. 8/28/2020. They have always been like this on ship dates. I am putting them back on the site today.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Have you ever considered adding multiple chainrings to your shift kit like Staton Inc did?
I prefer cassette hubs over freewheel hubs. Freewheel axles are prone to bending. Here's how one can shift a 3x8 1(1-3), 2(3-6), 3(6-8) for 10 non redundant ratios. Hill climbing 1(1-3); level ground cruising 2(3-6); max speed 3(6-8). Use 1(1) as a starting gear for stops going up hill; all other stops use 2(3). This system eliminates cross chainring on the bicycle chain and gives you a wider ratio range. I generally recommend a 34-13 cassette and 28, 36, 44 chainrings.
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Not like they did, but too large, too expensive, too complex.....for the exact reasons all new high end MTBs no longer have a front derailleur.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
The high end road bikes using a 2x9 or 11. Which gets shifted like this 1(1-6), 2(4-9) for 12 non redundant ratios or the 2 x 11 which gets shifted like this 1(1-7), 2(5-11) for 14 non redundant ratios. Touring bikes are using a 3x10 which gets shifted like this lowest to highest gear ratio 1(1-5), 2(3-7), 3(6-10) for 15 non redundant ratios. It isn't that multi chainrings are that complex it's simply most people have never been taught how to efficiently use them. For a motorized bicycle I sorta eliminate the drop back rear cog thing meaning a 3x10 would be shifted like this 1(1-4), 2(4-7), 3(7-10) for 12 non redundant ratios.
I also developed a colorized shifters system that lets you know by looking at the color chainring you're using what color sprockets you can use in the back. For example a 3x8
Chain ring 1 has a red mark by it on a thumb shifter.
Rear cogs (1-3) have a red mark by them on a twist shifter
Chainring 2 has a yellow mark by it on a thumb shifter.
Rear cogs (3-6) has a yellow mark by them on a twist shifter.
Chainring 3 has a green mark by it on a thumb shifter.
Rear cogs (6-8) have a green mark by them on a twist shifter.
I put the 8 position twist shifter on the left handlebar with the 3 position thumb shifter right beside of it.
Now the complexity has been eliminated, range has been widened, cross chaining has been eliminated and you have a 3x8 drive system to use should your engine fail.
I feel if anybody can promote this system you can pablo. On Yahoo Answers Cycling of which I'm a regular contributor; I'm always sending people your way when people ask about electrics.
Frogslayer
Well-Known Member
You're making it so hard to ride a bike lol. I'm glad it works for you but I'd imagine I'd need like either a hell of a heavy load or one super tiny little engine to need 12 speeds to get to 40mph on a motorized bicycle. With enough power I'm sure 2 or 3 gears can be ran really efficiently.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Tennessee has a 50cc limit and 30% grade hills small engines need gears especially if you're a large person.
Even for pedal only bicycles I teach the sequential shifting system. For pedal only one can use gear selection and a vary cadence of 70-90 to control a desired heart rate zone. This can be accomplished with a bicycle computer with a cadence meter and heart rate monitor on it.
Since rpm is the heart beat of an engine with a techometer you can keep the bike in a desired rpm zone.
Trust me, that is maybe 1/10 of a % of riders. You do know we have customers who buy an E kit and never shift out of high.............? Yeah you will burn the motor out soon.
Smart!
