S
Stratocaster
Guest
I'm looking at an old bike with a coaster-brake you apply with the pedals.
Can I still use this if I install an engine?
Can I still use this if I install an engine?
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S
SchwinnAlloySeven_GT5
Guest
Of course! You may need to tweak the arm a bit to clear the sprocket, but many people have done it.
See this thread:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/viewtopic.php?t=929
See this thread:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/viewtopic.php?t=929
srdavo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2006
- Messages
- 3,161
I've motored up 3 coaster brake wheels. I only had to bend one brake arm, to clear the bolt heads on the sprocket. here's more coaster brake info------> http://www.motoredbikes.com/viewtopic.php?t=1227
more good info
keep us posted.....best of luck!!
more good info
Bikeguy Joe said:Alrighty then.
Got the brakes greased and back together.
The sprocket was no biggie after I ground the dust cover flange off so the sprocket fit over it. I made a wheel stand out of a bucket that helped the process-
The coaster break arm was a biotch, To avoid re-living that nightmare, I'll just say a five pound hammer, vice, and torch took care of that.
The chain tensioner was no fun and a re-education in geometry and dislexia. I got that all done though, just took two hours.
Even though the sprocket ran true with no run out axially or radially, the chain loosens and tightens a bit as the chain goes 'round. I pushed the bike around the yard as fast as I could run and nothing came off. I'll keep an eye on that, might have to re-do the sprocket, even though it seemed fine the first time.
keep us posted.....best of luck!!
G
Guest
Guest
Yep, and I just got done doing a second one with a coaster brake....
The bucket has a hole cut in it so the axle fits down in there- makes it a lot easier to work on and was free. Helps with the sprocket install too. Plus the plastic won't mark up the wheel.
Now, I had to grind the brake arm a bit on both bikes, if you do, grind it BEFORE you bend it...makes it easier to bend. I also had to grind the washer down on one side a bit and bevel it too. No biggie with a standard Sears grinding wheel. The second one came out much prettier than the first.
The bucket has a hole cut in it so the axle fits down in there- makes it a lot easier to work on and was free. Helps with the sprocket install too. Plus the plastic won't mark up the wheel.
Now, I had to grind the brake arm a bit on both bikes, if you do, grind it BEFORE you bend it...makes it easier to bend. I also had to grind the washer down on one side a bit and bevel it too. No biggie with a standard Sears grinding wheel. The second one came out much prettier than the first.
U
uncle_punk13
Guest
I use coaster brakes on all my various bikes.
My chinese engined bike i had to take the sprocket down to the machine shop I used to work at and have the center hole enlarged a bit to clear the dust cap on my vintage coaster unit, worked like a charm and the bike rides beautifully.
One bit of advice here:
When rebuilding your brake unit use a high quality lithium type automotive bearing grease as you are motorvating at a higher rate of speed than just regular pedaling, otherwise it (lower grade bike grease) will liquify and run out of the hub like water...
and you will more than likely have to tear down and lube your hubs a little more often than if it were just a plain ol' bicycle.
8)
My chinese engined bike i had to take the sprocket down to the machine shop I used to work at and have the center hole enlarged a bit to clear the dust cap on my vintage coaster unit, worked like a charm and the bike rides beautifully.
One bit of advice here:
When rebuilding your brake unit use a high quality lithium type automotive bearing grease as you are motorvating at a higher rate of speed than just regular pedaling, otherwise it (lower grade bike grease) will liquify and run out of the hub like water...
and you will more than likely have to tear down and lube your hubs a little more often than if it were just a plain ol' bicycle.
8)
B
BruceH
Guest
uncle_punk13 said:
Does any type of high temperature grease work? Does it have to be lithium? I have a high temperature bearing grease from Texas Refinery Corporation which is an excellent product...for high heat bearing applications. I don't know if this would work for the coaster brake, though.
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uncle_punk13
Guest
Yeah that should work, I just use a high grade lithium type that we used for the commercial washer where I used to work, it was for high heat and water resistance. I'm not an engineer, so I can't really speak any more than that on the topic of lubes. I just kind of experiment and go with what I know worked...
Be sure to do your front hub as well. I forgot once on my first moto, and burned all the bearings in the hub, and destroyed (gouged) the bearing race.
Take 'er easy and I hope this helped.
Be sure to do your front hub as well. I forgot once on my first moto, and burned all the bearings in the hub, and destroyed (gouged) the bearing race.
Take 'er easy and I hope this helped.
C
Chopper
Guest
Point to consider, I have deducted that the reason I smashed my rear hub to pieces was when slowing down, I was slow on pulling the clutch lever in, so when I applied the rear coaster brake the engine chain was still pulling forward, while I was trying to stop it with the wheel.... guess the rear hub was the weak link!
All fixed now, freewheel hub installed......
All fixed now, freewheel hub installed......
G
gone_fishin
Guest
just my .02 on that one, chopper...freewheel and double-pull brake lever is the only way to go for me, it's just sooo easy to operate
C
Chopper
Guest
augidog said:just my .02 on that one, chopper...freewheel and double-pull brake lever is the only way to go for me, it's just sooo easy to operate
Yeah, I know we're all reliving our youth, but it's been a hell of a long time since I had to back-pedal brake!