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Don't Super Glue as Alternate to Welding the Clutch Nut

will_start

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
486
Background:
I may be a fool (i'm not to proud to admit it),
but sometimes my foolery ends up, being a stroke of genius in the long-run...

EG Can on the muffler, Vernier Caliper Choke,
Water-Proof Kill Switch (thanks large), Toilet Washer on Petrol Cap (thanks fetor),
Hi Temp Engine Paint on motor actually cools it they say...

My bike has been an experiment from the start
so I've always played with it as such.

I've sheared my woodruff key again.

I found a supplier of Woodruff keys, bought a couple,
took it home and it didn't fit.

...in frustration of having my bike not running
for the 25th time, used super glue on the sprocket,
then glue on the nut.

This actually worked.
For a Day.

I realise wood-ruff keys have been posted to death:
EG:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=7231&highlight=woodruff
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=5265&highlight=engine+sprocket&page=2

but maybe no-one ever used super glue to break their bike in such a way.

So I now have to un-glue the super-glue from the Nut,
as the shaft has come unglued from the cog.

I've searched the web and found a couple of solutions
to un-glueing super-glue.

http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf722654.tip.html
"Cooking oil and lots of patience will remove or unstick superglue."

http://au.four.ebid.net/perl/auction.cgi?auction=1175440795-27373-0&mo=auction
UNSTICK DEBONDER for SUPERGLUE CYANOACRYLATE

I saw in another post that glueing has been sugguested.

If the threads can not be saved you might get by with bonding the drive sprocket on with liquid steel epoxy.
So once I get the super-glue undone, my supplier may have the wood-ruff.
I am however interested in welding this thing shut with liquid steel epoxy.
As its a simple way anyone could fix the wood-ruff option if you don't own a welder,
or can't get a replacement key.
 
Last edited:


BoltsMissing

Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
897
Why not just try to heat it off with a hair dryer, soldering iron, or a miniture gas-light torch. Even a cig lighter might do it.
The point is, it's a plastic and direct flame or hi heat ought to weaken it and it might just peel off !
 
A

Abeagle

Guest
Old stock drivers used the square shank of a heat treat screw driver as a wood-ruff in their axles, it was stronger than stock wood-ruffs.
 

will_start

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
486
thanks bolts, I'll try that. i have a hair dryer even tho I don't use it myself.
I was thinking of trying to shape the keys i bought with a angle grinder.
 

BoltsMissing

Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
897
I hope I meant to say, to heat off the super glue with hair dryer, not shape a key with hair dryer
:)
 

will_start

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
486
I tried the hair-dryer on the nut last night.
It had no effect on loosening the nut.
Worse still, I am shredding the nut groove
through trying to unlock it with an impact driver.

So I've made a commitment to myself to go hard-core on glueing.
I think I'll start with using the areldyte glue that I already have.
I believe that should be stronger than ordinary glue.

My only concern is damaging the cog by glueing it
to the nut rather than the shaft.

Thereby causing it to crack if it goes off-centre.
anyone have a technical/feasability opinion on that ?

Also I'm concerned about glueing up the bearing internal to the motor.
I thought about glueing the cog with the bike in a horizontal or vertical stance
position.

I think the vertical will keep the glue away from the bearing, which is what concerns me.

If I didn't glue the nut, I think this type of solution could be viable,
as if the glue fails, you can then undo the nut and re-glue the cog.

Although I am quite over undoing/doing up that nut,
as the nut groove started to strip from day one.

this nut must have come undone for me 6 times,
and randomly come undone after I have put lock-tite
on the nut as well.

So permanant glueing may be a does of fortune.

Time will tell.
 
Last edited:

BoltsMissing

Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
897
I think we need some fotos taken of what you are doing.


I tried the hair-dryer on the nut last night.
It had no effect on loosening the nut.
Worse still, I am shredding the nut groove
through trying to unlock it with an impact driver.
My only concern is damaging the cog by glueing it
to the nut rather than the shaft.
Yes, MAJOR concern !

Also I'm concerned about glueing up the bearing internal to the motor.
I thought about glueing the cog with the bike in a horizontal or vertical stance
position.
Pictures Will, need pictures at this point, got no idea of what's happened or what ya trying to achieve according to your explanation
 

will_start

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
486
what bit doesn't make sense ?
I thought I wrote it pretty clearly.

if I take a photo you'll see nothing but the internal clutch nut, as normal.
when I wheel the bike, the small cogs goes around and the clutch nut stays fixed.

do you think the small cog could break if its glued to the Nut ?
 

BoltsMissing

Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
897
Pictures saying "This nut on Exhibit A and this cog on Exhibit B and had the hair dryer on Exhibit C etc etc.
don't have a clue what ya on about cos we all use various terminology to describe the same component.
 

will_start

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
486
ok, check this vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CqUZ0EtGiA

it shows the small Cog and Large Nut that holds it on.
tonight I've poured and forced strong glue into the gap
between the cog and the nut. then rotated the cog.
morning will tell if this has worked when the glue sets.

The glue is araldite.
 
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