Drive Chain Sprocket Won't Move?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by acecreeper, May 9, 2007.

  1. acecreeper

    acecreeper Guest

    sorry

    dang im still at a loss but im pretty sure i know whats the problem, i just don't know how to fix it. ok the clutch arm cannot cause the 'rod' to 'push' in and disengage/engage the engine torqe from the drive chain. what could have cause this? thanks please reply i'll reply this time without delay. im very anxious to ride this thing-
     

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  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

    So what exactly is happening? You pull the lever, the cable pulls the arm and it doesn't disengage the clutch? If so, have a helper pull the cable, then loosen the brass cable end and slide it up tight to the arm until you can't move it anymore. Tighten the brass end. If it still wont disengage or partially disengages, use the cable end adjusters to pull more.
     
  3. acecreeper

    acecreeper Guest

    ..

    no the problem is more complexed i belive. im thinking the ball bearing is jammed or something? what should i do to fix this? p.s the ball bearing spins in there freely. thx!
     
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I'm at a loss.

    I don't know if this will help-[​IMG]
     
  5. thatsdax

    thatsdax Guest

    ok...Look...Here is what you do....

    Look...Nothing is jammed or broken..Take your two thumbs and push really really hard on the clutch arm of the motor. You will see that if you push really really hard, it will spring in. Nothing is jammed. You just need to push really hard !!! Now..Come on !!! Push it hard with your two thumbs !! One thumb will not get it. You will not break it !! Once you see that it does spring in and how much pressure it takes..Then you take two pair of Vice grips. One on the brass keeper, the other on the cable. Push on the keeper, pull on the cable and cinch it up tight !!!! Then..Pull hard on the clutch lever !!! and you will see that it works !!! now..come on !!! Pull !!!! Thanks..Enjoy the ride...
     
  6. acecreeper

    acecreeper Guest

    yes..ok..

    now all your guys have helped, i have disengaged the engine completly now. BUT the clutch arm, has to be turned...how do i describe it, lets say it sits at 12 oclock and needs to be turned nearly to 15 after for it to 'push' the pin rod and let the wheel move freely. this will not allow me to use the 'smaller' spring. is there somthing wrong with my clutch arm? is the little spring(not the heat protector) needed? my friend says it may ruin my engine one day not using this lil spring. thx!
     
  7. Patch

    Patch Guest

    ok so lets say you're looking at the engine from the left side facing the front wheel. Now look down at the clutch arm and it'll be at 6oclock position. Then when you pull the clutch lever what time is it? My lever takes only maybe a centimeter to disengage. You shouldn't be Increaseing time (IE 12 to 12:15?????) iS the arm pointing to the rear of the bike?

    Check your clutch cable for kinks when pulled in. IF so...go get a motorcycle cable or a mini bike cable from northern tool (this one takes grinding though) Take your clutch lever to check if the little cable end thing fits in it.

    So if none of these... come back and we'll think of sumting
     
  8. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Re: yes..ok..

    I didn't use the small spring on either of my bikes and they both work really well without it. I won't ruin the engine in any way shape or form.

    Also, a bicycle brake cable will work as a replacement cable if you need one.

    The arm should be pointing straight back- "6:00" (roughly) when the clutch is engaged, when you pull it in, it will be around the "5:30" position.
     
  9. Egor

    Egor Guest

    You might have to adjust the clutch with the nut on the end of the shaft. If the lever on the engine has a lot of play, IE if you can move it both ways with the cable off more than 45 degree you will have to remove the cover over the clutch and take the small screw out and move the large daisy nut out till you get the correct play. Also make sure you have not lost the ball bearing between the two pushrods on the left side. Have fun, Dave
     
  10. acecreeper

    acecreeper Guest

    OK..

    sorry for the late reply, ok i will try adjusting the 'daisy' nut.Also if i look at the left side facing the front wheel the clutch sits at 6:00 and it needs to be turned all the way to 5:15. ok so you guys are sure not using the lil spring will not affect my bike? my freind was sort of pissing me off when he kept at me about not putting it on. how long have u guys ran yours without it? thx
     
  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I have run both my bikes for over 500 miles each with no problems and I don't see having any problems since the internal spring is more than enough to keep the clutch engaged.
     
  12. V 35

    V 35 Member

    First, get the engine turning, remove spark plug, squirt a little oil into cylinder to make rings slide easy. When in doubt, remove drive sprocket cover, and be sure chain is squarely seated on drive sprocket, if cocked to one side, chain may snag on casting, preventing wheel movement.

    As to the clutch, let it out very slowly, until it breaks in, rapid release will lock rear wheel, feather clutch out while slowly pedaling
     
  13. Luthierpro

    Luthierpro Guest

    Im having same problem I had a motor bike before and never had this problem bought it half done though can't get the drive sprocket to turn Im trying to install the chain?
     
  14. V 35

    V 35 Member

    Try removing bevel gear [ puller comes in most kits ] This totally disconnects motor from Gear Drive If sprocket turns, problem is in motor, if sprocket doesn't turn, motor OK, problem in Clutch . Try loosening Flower Nut, remove set screw, turn nut counter clockwise to loosen grip on clutch plate. Clutch plate may be stuck to disk .
     
  15. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    It could be just the ring gear bearing grease, old/dried/cooked when they painted, I don't know the cause; but it's common. It causes the clutch to appear to be engaged permanently, when in fact you can see the plate separating from the pads.

    I freed mine by twisting the two in different directions. I removed the clutch plate and put a flat wrench between two of the three prongs, gripped the edges of the big cog with a rag in hand and just broke it free. Then I regreased the bearing through the grease port in the back, though I've read that it can be done through the front with spray can grease (and a flattened tube to get through the tiny tiny gap in the front).
    If you have the engine assembled then you can remove the plug and turn the clutch plate by hand to wind the chain through. Once you have connected the chain and replaced the plug, sit on the bike and roll forward, this ought to unstick the bearing.
    If that was the problem!
    And it still needs greasing. Minimally.
     
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