Dual Drive Hub

[davidstipek]

Skipper Dan

Don't worry about the last remark. YOU, came to me and asked Questions. I had no issue with that and was glad to try and give you the best senarios I could. To see which way you were leaning. Please feel free to ask me anywhere anytime, As I am in Thailand and we are 14 hrs ahead of you an west coast (Seattle) answers could be delayed.

If this bothers some people I will answer direct to your mailbox. I am sure other would have had same questions or simular.

 

[davidstipek]

Dan
they have what is called a Band Brake. Drum threads on hub on left side of rear wheel. Uses bracket simular to your coaster brake. But uses lever just like Multispeed bikes to apply brakes. You can mount rear wheel sprocket to spokes with kit or use freewheel between drum and hub of rear wheel. drum will continually tighten against freewheel.

David

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Duck tape Goat...

Who said I was new to Bikes, or Powering Bicycles, I have been doing it for 30 years! I am new to this site and know most of the Suppliers who advertise here. I had Bike shop in Dayton Ohio for 15 years and Seattle for 6 before selling our Thai Restaurant in Seattle, retireing and moving everything to Thailand. I have a Major Bike Building Business here with 2 Factories one in Bangkok and the other with our Corporate Offices in Chiang Mai. I have drive 2cycle boats for all of my adult life at speeds you can barely dream of. Before going in service and getting hired by Mercury after discharged. I as Feild rep also who worked with customers and factory/dealers to get things fixed. Just because I am new to this site or listed as a Newby.. means I have not been on it for a while I have been a member since 2009 at the request of Manufacturers to help with questions.

I didn't say you were new - I was talking to skipper dan, who is new and has lots of questions that could be better answered in a separate thread. Jeez, taking things a bit personally with the gigantic rant about how you're not new when I wasn't even talking to you.

 

[Skipper Dan]

DuctTapeGoat,

This is the only question I asked;

"David I am just starting out in this business. I could use some help. The 4/5 hole freewheel is the driven part of the drive system correct. Goes on the front sprocket? opposite the pedal sprocket? Still allows pedal start? This would be the easiest and best way to get power to the road? Beach rider type one speed bike.

Dan"

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Thanks David,

I have to tear the bile down to really understand it but I researched most of the night. Getting the brain going. I want something simple so I want to keep the coaster brake operational I realized that I would not be able to use a crank freewheel and have this happen. And after reading for a few hours I realized that a gas engine might be more trouble than it is worth. Still in the running but maybe second to an electric. For simplicity I am leaning to a motor mounted over the rear wheel behind the seat going direct to sprocket on left of rear wheel. For real simple it would be direct sprocket to sprocket via chain. For more advanced it could have a reduction with a freewheel so you do not have to overcome the motor while pedaling. Two batteries mounted on either side like saddle bags. More research and now I am thinking pusher.

But then you posted this, where you are talking about how you might not even be interested in a gas motor, that you are liking electric - then you mention you want to go rack mount, then you say you want to go pusher. This is why I suggested you start a new thread to get proper advice to your situation.

 

[Skipper Dan]

But then you posted this, where you are talking about how you might not even be interested in a gas motor, that you are liking electric - then you mention you want to go rack mount, then you say you want to go pusher. This is why I suggested you start a new thread to get proper advice to your situation.

I had no question though. I was just letting David know what part of the freewheel was going to pertain to my situation. I never asked for advice on my situation as far as going gas electric or pusher. It was a simple follow up on my original question. A polite response to Davids hard work in answering my question for me. Just being polite to David.

Dan

 

[Rapcom]

Question

So, first the paraphrased summary, then the optionally read rant, and lastly, the materials I have been acquiring through getting screwed over and being "misinformed" (lied to through ommission).

Where can I buy a "dual drive" hub? The right side would have to have standard direction threads, and the left side must have reverse direction threads, both with standard thread pitch and diameter.

:::::<Optionally Read Rant>:::::

I got screwed over by some jackwagon ("boygofast") on eBay for what was claimed to be a rear axle for motorized bikes. Well, as luck would have it, it's been over 45 days since I bought it (had to save the money to get it laced up, buy good spokes, etc). I finally saved cash to get everything I needed for this new rocking wheel setup, and the bike shop says they can't fit their standard sized spokes through the spoke holes on the hub. So I tell them to find spokes that will fit and I'll buy them instead of the standard ones. I get a call 3 days later stating that they couldn't find any spokes that large, and that they could just order me a hub that served the same purpose. I pick up the hub, everything is looking fine... until I throw on the threaded sprocket. They gave me a flip flop hub (standard direction threading on both sides), which COMPLETELY destroys the purpose of getting this hub. I am such a huge supporter of the true moped, but I am so against the way they tell you to install the sprocket, it does nothing but kill wheels. I thought I had finally found a solution, but alas, roadblock on the path to progress. Anyways, as I began looking around online, I realize that for spokes and nipples alone I would be looking at 150+ dollars for the spokes it calls for. I'm not sure where to go now to get this done - I don't want to buy a wheel that's going to die in 5 months building it by the book, I KNOW that this setup is truely the way to go if you're operating a motorized bike, but why is it that I can't find hardly any information on it?

This is the eBay listing where I got the 32H Steel Hub W/36T Sprocket.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170532714665

:::::</Optionally Read Rant>:::::

I guess I'm on the hunt for a solution now, I have an aluminum flip flop hub laced to an aluminum wheel with 14G steel spokes, a steel "dual drive" hub with removable bearing races, a 12 tooth right handed freewheel sprocket (pedalside), a southpaw 36 tooth freewheel sprocket (chaindrive side), and a rather lacking budget.

Given the parts that I have, what do you think I should do/what can I do/who can help me at least get on the right track?

Have you tried the Shimano hub? it has a reverse locking bolt and I have heard others have had success on You tube. I guess I still need to find out more about the spoke issues you had. I plan on trying this my self.

 

[davidstipek]

Remedy... Solution... Issue fixed owner should be happy!

Have you tried the Shimano hub? it has a reverse locking bolt and I have heard others have had success on You tube. I guess I still need to find out more about the spoke issues you had. I plan on trying this my self.

I am loosing everyone in this conversation... Okay first! I will number my questions so I get correct numbered answer back to each one

1. When you bought the hub from ebay did they not tell you about spoke size?:shame:

2. Bicycle shop when they went to lace spokes to rim/hub... did the tell you size (14g, 12g, 10g, etc. "g" is for gauge or thickness) and length? (length is going to be specific to one rim and one hub) wder ar narrower rim or hub can change spoke length. Also you are going to find length in MM (Metric)

If hub is bigger then spokes bike shop carried, then it is most likely for Motorcycle spokes. Did they even mention this? If not I would not enertain doing much business with him...ok?

Okay, back to my questions...

3. Did you get your original hub that you bought on ebay back fom Bike shop???

If answer is yes....

Take rim and hub to an old greasy (oldtimer! Harley Shop, the more it looks like a backyard business the better) show him the hub and rim you are trying to pair up. Don't worry if rim is for smaller gauge spokes it can be drilled for proper nipple size and reamed to remove any sharp areas. If it's a hot day, do it this way...

Take a couple of ice cold Hires Rootbeers in with your parts. Introduce yourself, shake hands. Tell him up front what you are trying to build and where you are having issue... (somewhere in here hand him one of the Rootbeers - openned of course! And open the other for yourself) Ask him if he an tell you what size and length spokes you are going to need, If he has or can order. (If not, and he gives you the gauge and mm length I can get for you here.)

4. How much did you say spokes were going to cost you? Do you want Chrome or Cadium plated?

5. How many spoke holes does hub/rim have?

6. I can get you a hub with 3/8 axle threaded on both sides, right side for your freewheel gear and left side for spin-on rotor hub. (Just bare with me here) I suggest like this so bike shops would know what I am talking about. Do you have a threaded freewheel to bolt your gear to?

7. Here's the wrap-up for you... get your rim/hub laced, get your right side bike freewheel/gear installed. Whatch which way you install it. As you are holding rim between your knees, on right side turning clockwise it should thread on and self tighten. (with rim in this position it is same as if you were sitting on bike! Tire if directional should go on same direction)now take some anti seize and coat left side hu threads and threads on your sprocket and Gear you are wanting to install on left side. Notice it is going to thread on gain to the right. If you don't have I will send you also if you ask me to get spokes for you. What I am referring to is a disc rotor spin on hub, you will notice that is has a setscrew to tighten so (if brake installed here...)when braking or motor in use doesn't loosen-up!

Tell me the gauge and length spokes and finish needed, I will quote you a "GOOD" Price if you agree. I will purchase, send hub spin on adapter and best way from here is to send certified so it not get lost in someones pocket...ok?

You can either have machine shop help you, drill and tap treads in freewheel. Using anti seize install freewheel snug against spokes and have shop take smaller bit and countersink a mark in your bike hub and tighten use studloc setscrew and you are done!!!

We will talk later how to pay for..ok? You just answer quetions 1 - 5 and then I will get you required quotes from here and than we will proceed!

Regards, (and don't worry! okay? If its not broke we won't need to fix it.... just get the right parts and install with a Hires...Rootbeer in Hand!

David

 

[davidstipek]

Hey Dan...

If people are going to Rag on you for your asking me questions... Don't worry! just send to my personal Email. If they don't let me post it here you can get in my account...
Here: davidstipek@msn.com
Regards,
David

 

[davidstipek]

Dan
here is another solution for you at:
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/Accessories/

They have a complete kit hub sprockets (reverse thread for left side so when you under power it tightens) brake etc. It has complete rear hub/axle sprocket and brake w/left handed freewheel (Left side has dual threads left hand for petrol sprocket/freewheel and right handed threads for drum brake.) use your original bicycle sprocket on right side! Complete is 49.99 I believe! only issue here is how many spokes does it use... 28, 32, 34, 36... etc. you might need to get new rim if they can't match what you already have. Also measure inside diameter of rim and tell them the distance... they might have correct spokes!



Regards
David