Dynamo powered accesseries

Anime2019Master

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So i think i may have found the solution to my lighting power problem
 

darwin

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Only good dynamos are made in Germany or Japan, stay away from the cheap Chinese ones = junk = waste of money.
 

Anime2019Master

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I mean sure, being china, it probably isnt actually 12v. But its not too pricy, could hook it to a volt meter and see what it actually produces, and buy lighting voltage accordingly.
 

Colonel__Klink

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So i think i may have found the solution to my lighting power problem

I went looking into this product. On Amazon the claim is that it will produce 12v at 1300rpm, from the reviews of the people who managed to get it to work you need to get up well above 1300rpm to have it power significant lighting (well, significant with incandescent bulbs it seems. LED are much lower energy requirements.)

What I'm seeing here is that there is a lot of work to be done. You will ideally need an energy storage medium that you will top up when producing excess of what your requirements are, then stop charging and begin discharging when you need those bright lights when idling. To do this of course you'll need to create a rectifier with some diodes.... Also considering most batteries that seem practical for this are 5v (USB style seems to be the way everyone is going) you'll need some resisters to step it down. Then you will also need some way of shedding all excess energy as heat in the event that the battery AND the lights are fully supplied with energy.

Instead of a large 4 amp/h battery (large as in cell phone sized, those portable little chargers. No reason to go anywhere else for batteries when someone did all the engineering for you and they are so cheap) I wonder how many capacitors it would take to regulate the system? With enough resistors to keep the capacitors from just dumping and destroying your lights that is! lol.

I'm not an electrical engineer but I know that as long as that engine is turning over the coil will be producing energy and it needs to go somewhere. Maybe that last part is easy but considering that problem has made me hesitate even attempting this path. On Amazon someone mentioned that you need to ground the generator on the bike which I wonder if that's to shed the excess energy? As I said I'm pretty novice at this.

Or buy a battery powdered light and signal's/ marker tail light...

You can use regular or recharble batteries too

Amazon.com : Bike Tail Light with Turn Signals-Wireless Remote Control Waterproof Bicycle Taillight-USB Rechargeable Ultra Bright Safety Warning Bike Brake Rear Lights-Easy Installation : Sports & Outdoors

There are 100's too chose from

TBH it's about the fun of the project and trying to avoid having to remember charging batteries constantly. It's one more maintenance hassle that could be solved if we made our bikes a bit more like a regular motorcycle which runs it's own lighting system all on it's own.
 

Wrench

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I went looking into this product. On Amazon the claim is that it will produce 12v at 1300rpm, from the reviews of the people who managed to get it to work you need to get up well above 1300rpm to have it power significant lighting (well, significant with incandescent bulbs it seems. LED are much lower energy requirements.)

What I'm seeing here is that there is a lot of work to be done. You will ideally need an energy storage medium that you will top up when producing excess of what your requirements are, then stop charging and begin discharging when you need those bright lights when idling. To do this of course you'll need to create a rectifier with some diodes.... Also considering most batteries that seem practical for this are 5v (USB style seems to be the way everyone is going) you'll need some resisters to step it down. Then you will also need some way of shedding all excess energy as heat in the event that the battery AND the lights are fully supplied with energy.

Instead of a large 4 amp/h battery (large as in cell phone sized, those portable little chargers. No reason to go anywhere else for batteries when someone did all the engineering for you and they are so cheap) I wonder how many capacitors it would take to regulate the system? With enough resistors to keep the capacitors from just dumping and destroying your lights that is! lol.

I'm not an electrical engineer but I know that as long as that engine is turning over the coil will be producing energy and it needs to go somewhere. Maybe that last part is easy but considering that problem has made me hesitate even attempting this path. On Amazon someone mentioned that you need to ground the generator on the bike which I wonder if that's to shed the excess energy? As I said I'm pretty novice at this.



TBH it's about the fun of the project and trying to avoid having to remember charging batteries constantly. It's one more maintenance hassle that could be solved if we made our bikes a bit more like a regular motorcycle which runs it's own lighting system all on it's own.

This store has everything ya need and more to make that mini gen work
They sell a complete lighting systems for 2 cycle bicycle engines
 

Benchdweller

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That should work the only thing is having the dynamo is going to rob you of power and create resistance. Who wants that?


An easier and non-power robbing solution is to add a buck converter to the extra power lead on the magneto. This will smooth out the current conning from it into a steady electrical.source while also keeping your accessories from robbing you of spark.
 

bike4life

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look man if you wanna attach lighting man, just add your motor asynchronous generator thing to get AC. Screw the damn battery and bridge rectifier...
Even if you added a rectifier, the wave form would not be pure DC, it would be halfwave or fullwave DC. You would need a filter inductor and capacitor, in which the size of capacitor can be calculated by the formula: If you cant do the formula calculations, then i would say dont bother, but if you can, then go for the AC to DC conversion.

Annotation 2020-09-06 195147.png


For example: You have a 120 volt AC generated from dynamo and then it goes to 120 full wave DC after the rectifer and you want the ripple to be half a volt so you can get pure DC. That means 119.5 120.5 cycle back and forth which is close enough to pure DC. A switching power supply might have a ripple of 0.01 volts. Who knows without a oscilliscope!!!! Then plug in the current draw, and the frequency of the AC being generated, probably 60hz in households, but IDK what your dynamo is, you have to look it up or calculate it from a formula. Then solve for C, which is capacitance in Farads. That will give you the answer to size for your rectifier circuit.

The inductor you could pass up on, but the capacitor would be necessary.

Easiest thing is f*** it and add some generic non DC lights, like some flourescent house lighting and jery rig it for your bike...
Some commentors said with AC it would be on and off the lights. No, it would be going on and off 3600 times a minute and not abruptly and your eyes would never never never never never never never never notice,

Also I hate toggle switches. They break. I once used one as a cut off and it died after like 2 weeks. Please use generic 15 amp houshold switches. They are cheaper, around 1 dollar, and can handle much more juice and longevity. Circuit breakers can also be used as a switch too and work great
 
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Solux

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Sounds like a whole bunch of unnecessary work. Just get rechargable lights. I mean how much night riding will you be doing where rechargeables won't work for your situation. My lights are amazing. And just use the same cable as my phone to charge them up.
 

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