Easiest way to replace old gas

[artmaker]

Hi again you bike people.

So… last fall I finished replacing my clutch, whole new transmission, new chain since the gears were different. Then found out my rear bearings were shot… whole new wheel later….
Never got to test any of this. (darn wheel wasn't done till mid winter.)

So… I have a full gas tank that's old. before I even try to start the bike though it would be a wise idea to simply replace the gas. (old stuff will be fine to get my fire pit started.)

I know someone posted this long long ago but I can't find it.

Is there (I'm sure there is) WHERE is there the easiest way to drain the old gas?
Do I really have to pull that skinny gas line off the motor and let it drip into a can?
Or is there a nice simple release valve somewhere I don't know about.

Pretty sure mine is a hushang motor… 4 stroke. I can run out and get a photo of it if need be.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Frankenstein]

It's like a half a gallon, just let it drain into a container for 2 minutes, pull the fuel line off at the carb. I've drained different things from bad spots to a container using a bicycle tube, just cut it so you have an appropriate length and direct the flow to a container, zip tie to fasten it to the source if it's not staying up alone.

This works great for replacing some thermostats in cars, put the tube on a quart milk carton whatever works with the side cut out, just put it under the tstat (or whatever) and collect what drains out.

 

[artmaker]

Hi Frankenstein, I thought you would be first here.

It's more like a 2 1/2 gal. But ok, I was thinking just that. Pull the line off the carb it is. Cool beans. I'll put up a reminder photo of my ride.

Now can we talk brake adjustment or should I start a new thread? I've watched all the videos…. Did this just fine once before but this time I
just can't get both sides to fully release.
Let me know, I can start a new one if need be. No rush.

 

[Frankenstein]

If the wheel isn't centered in the frame or fork you'll see that, but you are using those linear pull brakes that always get stupid over time. The spring on one gets looser for some reason or the bolt is too loose on one side, or the side that keeps touching is lacking grease or has corrosion at the zone where it rotates with a washer in between, which prevents it from relaxing nicely. Mind you the cable shield may also be tugging slightly more to one side so imparting a bend in it nearer the noodle (bent metal tube thing from the cable to the brake) can make it want to rest better.

The best way to figure out what's not right is to unlatch the cable and slowly move both by hand to feel what the difference is between them if playing with the cable shield can't align it.

 

[artmaker]

I HAD this working flawlessly last summer. Youtube to the rescue. Finally I learned how to adjust brakes and got it working great. Why I can't get it now is driving me nuts.
And of course this has to be the rear wheel. I had a hell of a time getting that thing on. It's as centered as I can get it. Just using my fingers holding the wheel between bike frame, it feels right. Looks right. Most important all the gears line up. Chains and such.

And there have been a lot of new parts thrown onto this bike since that photo. Whole new rear wheel, rim is close to the front in looks but not exact. Best they could do. I don't have an accurate tool to measure, but it's possible it's just a hair wider than the old one. I could swear the axle was wider. I had to use a wrench up against the drive gear and pry the frame wider just to get it on. (There was some loud and scary cussin coming out of my garage.)
New tire, broke the rear caliper so that whole thing is new. New brake cable, new noodle. New shoes.
Thing is I can get both pads to release ok, BUT at the sacrifice of not enough space between the brake lever and handlebar. Suppose to be two fingers between, if I have to brake hard, I'd hit the bar. Not good. Once I adjust that so I can really give it a squeeze, one side or the other will rub.
Wonder if replacing the springs would do any good?

Now those tension screws… tightening makes the brake spring out better. Swell. Got the right side that wasn't letting go to work just dandy. Left side, that screw is in as far as it will go and it's not enough. Now what?
Even tried lowering the shoes to the very bottom most part of the rim without missing it hoping because it's narrower that would give me more space. I got it so only one side is barely rubbing and that's the best I can get. Maybe as the shoe wears down it will be better. Seems a dumb way to go though. I swear I had it perfect last fall.

 

[Frankenstein]

Try straightening out the cable shield or adding a bend to the left in it, if it rests the noodle to the left more then the lever should be to the left a bit more, you can also in your case probably pull the entire shielding down the length of the top tube a bit more towards the back wheel, the extra spring tention behind it may shift the lever over a hint.

Bulky grips need a different lever, one that pulls a greater distance for the amount of lever travel, they make these for brakes that require more cable pull for the best engagement. Another option is to bend the pull lever itself, however I've experienced that this is generally never easy unless the quality is absolutely dirt cheap. It was hard enough even on a cheap clutch lever that I used a rounded heavy file to create a dimple in the cheap stock grips that let me get full clutch disengagement.