Easter Build

[The_Aleman]

That thing has the longest gooseneck I ever seen on a bike. It seems within 5" as long as the seat-tube!

Looks like a comfy ride, if screaming for an exhaust bracket

 

[CrazyDan]

Well the brakes squall like a train locked up on the rails. A real strong vibration between 15 to 20, smooth below and above. Handles baeutifully, looks and rides great. I'm thinking the alum. frame just picks up on the resonance better than steel because I notice it on the gas frames too. Might be able to solve the brake issue by removing the paint on the rim. A little more work to do before I decide which way the thumb gets pointed on this one.
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Yeah, you will definitely want to remove the paint, or at minimum rough it up. I need to get the paint all the way off of my rear rim, roughed it up at the last race so my rear brake actually functioned somewhat, but it still isn't working optimally. I bet you smell burned rubber after hard stops. If the rim wasn't black already, the pads would make it so. I was losing brand new brakes within 10 miles of stop and go with my powder coated rims, fully melted away.

 

[gary55]

Yeah, you will definitely want to remove the paint, or at minimum rough it up. I need to get the paint all the way off of my rear rim, roughed it up at the last race so my rear brake actually functioned somewhat, but it still isn't working optimally. I bet you smell burned rubber after hard stops. If the rim wasn't black already, the pads would make it so. I was losing brand new brakes within 10 miles of stop and go with my powder coated rims, fully melted away.

What wound up working was to change the factory pads to better pads and changed the brake arches to ones that weren't as loose on the mounting posts.

 

[JerboaJohn]

you maybe can toe-in the pads a few degrees to kill sqeal? light bikes do it more I think. I swear my frame is made of lead. is your bike pretty light? i had all that space too once then I started putting all these things on it

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

you maybe can toe-in the pads a few degrees to kill sqeal? light bikes do it more I think. I swear my frame is made of lead. is your bike pretty light? i had all that space too once then I started putting all these things on it

Assymetric aka longtail pads (all that exist nowadays AFAIK) shouldn't require any toe in. The longer section to the rear of the brake boss is supposed to cancel out the twisting that is caused by the tangential force resulting from the rim friction against the pad (as long as you're moving forwards).

I can see the sense in upgrading the brake to one with better construction. The cheap V brake arms made from stamped plate and loosely fitting on the bosses would be able to twist more than a quality V brake.


It still wants the paint removed IMHO because the paint will wear and end up coating the pads otherwise... Nothing to do with squealing but just the braking performance.

 

[gary55]

Assymetric aka longtail pads (all that exist nowadays AFAIK) shouldn't require any toe in. The longer section to the rear of the brake boss is supposed to cancel out the twisting that is caused by the tangential force resulting from the rim friction against the pad (as long as you're moving forwards).

I can see the sense in upgrading the brake to one with better construction. The cheap V brake arms made from stamped plate and loosely fitting on the bosses would be able to twist more than a quality V brake.


It still wants the paint removed IMHO because the paint will wear and end up coating the pads otherwise... Nothing to do with squealing but just the braking performance.

You hit the nail squarely on the head. I used long tail pads for replacements, and the stock arms that were replaced were poorly fitted stamped arms.

 

[gary55]

you maybe can toe-in the pads a few degrees to kill sqeal? light bikes do it more I think. I swear my frame is made of lead. is your bike pretty light? i had all that space too once then I started putting all these things on it

Right on both counts. I did toe them in a little, and the frame is light.

 

[JerboaJohn]

i think it comes from the flexy mount (with stamped arms as said ^) n whatever pads might not matter, but I just offer a cheapie solution. it's not a permanent fix esp if going fast we need solid braking up front. I tried semi metallic pads but they squeaked more. after a bit it went away but they put faint grooves in my front rim and ate the finish off. back to plain rubber and set it so the front can't lock up. but then I don't go fast so Im ok on the roadie w/o going to disc

 

[extremeodd]

I'd recommend these pads if you want something that will stop your bike quickly and not wear out in a couple of months.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6016MM/
The only downside is they like to scream under hard braking.

 

[LewieBike]

Well the brakes squall like a train locked up on the rails. A real strong vibration between 15 to 20, smooth below and above. Handles baeutifully, looks and rides great. I'm thinking the alum. frame just picks up on the resonance better than steel because I notice it on the gas frames too. Might be able to solve the brake issue by removing the paint on the rim. A little more work to do before I decide which way the thumb gets pointed on this one.
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Usually alloy rims are anodized not painted, and should work fine when the brake pads are set up properly.

Did you 'toe in' the brake pads? In other words make the trailing end of the pad touch the rim with about 1~2 mm's of opening at the rearward, leading end of the brakepad's edge. Kinda important with rim brakes to have this set up correctly. Also adjust their height and alignment to the rim itself.

Make sure before you do any brake adjustment that the wheel is fully into the dropouts. Place bike resting on it's wheels, ( kickstand up..) open the quick release and put some body weight on the bike half you're checking and then close the quick release snugly.