EHO 35 Cold Starting Problem

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No, check my pic, it's not original. I'm very satisfied with
the repair now. But I will investigate a tack.
 
No, check my pic, it's not original. I'm very satisfied with
the repair now. But I will investigate a tack.
The metering lever tool is another good investment. I put an inline fuel line in mine. Helps out a lot when needing to change carbs.

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I believe I saw a video of your MB and when you turned up the throttle
the pedal crank moved. If I used the Staton gearbox I would use it to drive
the rear wheel and leave the pedal crank on a freewheel to operate
independently from the motor. To me your setup is a little weird, and
the chain is too close to your leg when riding the bike. But it
apparently works for you. I guess you did that to allow some
ratio shifting from one crank sprocket to another. I much prefer
my double right-sided design where two independent freewheels
are used and the bike can be ridden like a bicycle with the engine
turned off. It's equivalent to Grubee's belt drive that incorporates
a freewheel on the large pulley seen here:
So with the motor off, the bicycle pedals do not drive the belt
transmission - no drag. ride as a bicycle..
 
I believe I saw a video of your MB and when you turned up the throttle
the pedal crank moved. If I used the Staton gearbox I would use it to drive
the rear wheel and leave the pedal crank on a freewheel to operate
independently from the motor. To me your setup is a little weird, and
the chain is too close to your leg when riding the bike. But it
apparently works for you. I guess you did that to allow some
ratio shifting from one crank sprocket to another. I much prefer
my double right-sided design where two independent freewheels
are used and the bike can be ridden like a bicycle with the engine
turned off. It's equivalent to Grubee's belt drive that incorporates
a freewheel on the large pulley seen here:
So with the motor off, the bicycle pedals do not drive the belt
transmission - no drag. ride as a bicycle..
It's the same on my bike. The pedals don't move the engine drive chain. The shift kit has a double freewheel in it. In the video LandRider Hill Rider the pedals didn't move at all while I was doing the auto shifting demonstration. The shift kit has a guard on it, the tensioner sprocket has a guard over it and the engine drive sprocket has a guard over it. The seat is properly ajusted to where my knee only has a slight bend when the pedal is in the 6:00 o'clock position. Therefore the angle of the chain puts it behind my leg and not beside it.



As for needing multiple drive ratios, I'm 240 lbs, have a heart condition and live in a mountainous area; the hills can be up to a 30% grade. A large person with a small cc low horsepower engine and steep hills must have multiple engine driven gears with a wide ratio range. My ratio range is 66.79:1 to 16.25:1. The wide range is due to using a triple chainring shift kit. I also custom built a 7 speed 34-13 freewheel (34,28,24,21,18,15,13).

I know one would think 21 engine driven gears is way to much and way to complicated. However on a 3x7 drive system you don't have 21 gears what you have is 21 shifting combinations, many of the ratios are redundant. While on a pedal only forum I developed the sequential non-redundant ratio shifting system. The correct way to shift a 3x7 is: 1(1-4), 2(2-5), 3(4-7) for 12 sequential non-redundant ratios. I also applied a color code markings to the shifters so that one didn't become confused when shifting. [Red 1(1-4)] [Yellow 2(2-5)] [Green 3(4-7)]. This way all one has to do is look at what color chainring they're using then match it with the same color rear cogs. Take off gears are 1(1) for starts going up hill and 2(2) for all other starts.

So I then applied my color coded sequential shifting system to my motorized bicycle, the Schwinn Sidewinder. I did eliminate 3 out of the 12 ratios for simplicity sake 1(4), 2(2), 3(4). Which gave me this manual shifting system:

Red gears
Steep Hill Climbing or Load Pulling
1(1-3)

Yellow gears
Around town general use
2(3-5)

Green gears
Open road use.
3(5-7)

For 9 sequential non-redundant ratios. Notice the only time a chainring is shifted is when in either rear cogs (3) or (5). Another advantage of my system over 1x6,7,8 etc motorized shifters is I don't cross chain any thus reducing the lateral stress being put on the bicycle chain. Take off gears are 1(1) for starts going up hill and 2(3) for all other starts. If in a gear at WOT I'm going over 7000 rpm I shift to a higher gear. If I drop below 6000 rpm at WOT I shift to a lower gear. I hope to have some videos out soon riding the Sidewinder.

As for your double freewheel right side engine drive I do like it. However, for a large person living in the mountains; they'd either have to have very good cardio to provide a lot of pedal assist up these 30% grade hills or use a much bigger engine with more horsepower. Even with good cardio you'd still need to add derailleurs and a triple chainring if using a 50cc or less engine.
 
Maybe I was looking at the wrong video, but I do see in this vid
that the pedal crank does not move when you throttle the engine.
I like the look of your bike, and believe more users should adapt
chain drives over friction drive. I like the bike too, maybe a
hyper commuter? 28mph, but appears to be going down
hill.
 
Maybe I was looking at the wrong video, but I do see in this vid
that the pedal crank does not move when you throttle the engine.
I like the look of your bike, and believe more users should adapt
chain drives over friction drive. I like the bike too, maybe a
hyper commuter?
The way I'd do your system for a large person here in Tennessee is a 9/34 from the 5:1 gear box to the right side rear wheel giving you around an 18.89:1 reduction. Then use a 22,32,42 triple crank to drive a 34 rear sprocket. This way a large person with good cardio should be able to climb 30% grade hills and provid the assist needed to not burn up the clutch on a small cc engine.
 
Why don't you try your suggestion, sounds super. I am too
busy to develop more concepts now. Go for it! Mike
What I got works for me but other future builders might be able to use this information should they need it. To get David Staton to make a discontinued triple chainring shift kit may take an act of Congress lol. But your system with a triple chainring crank could be a beacon of light for large riders in mountainous regions who want to use 50cc or smaller engines.
 
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