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No, check my pic, it's not original. I'm very satisfied with
the repair now. But I will investigate a tack.
the repair now. But I will investigate a tack.
The metering lever tool is another good investment. I put an inline fuel line in mine. Helps out a lot when needing to change carbs.No, check my pic, it's not original. I'm very satisfied with
the repair now. But I will investigate a tack.
It's the same on my bike. The pedals don't move the engine drive chain. The shift kit has a double freewheel in it. In the video LandRider Hill Rider the pedals didn't move at all while I was doing the auto shifting demonstration. The shift kit has a guard on it, the tensioner sprocket has a guard over it and the engine drive sprocket has a guard over it. The seat is properly ajusted to where my knee only has a slight bend when the pedal is in the 6:00 o'clock position. Therefore the angle of the chain puts it behind my leg and not beside it.I believe I saw a video of your MB and when you turned up the throttle
the pedal crank moved. If I used the Staton gearbox I would use it to drive
the rear wheel and leave the pedal crank on a freewheel to operate
independently from the motor. To me your setup is a little weird, and
the chain is too close to your leg when riding the bike. But it
apparently works for you. I guess you did that to allow some
ratio shifting from one crank sprocket to another. I much prefer
my double right-sided design where two independent freewheels
are used and the bike can be ridden like a bicycle with the engine
turned off. It's equivalent to Grubee's belt drive that incorporates
a freewheel on the large pulley seen here:
So with the motor off, the bicycle pedals do not drive the belt4G - 100T Pulley and freewheel
100Tooth T -Belt Pulley complete with Freewheel attached; Fits any Gru-Bee 4G Model 1B, 1C and 2D transmission. If you are changing your Pulley size from a 1A 80T 4G transmission be sure to order the appropriate plastic cover belt guard and mounting brackets. Not sold for use on any...www.grubee.net
transmission - no drag. ride as a bicycle..
The way I'd do your system for a large person here in Tennessee is a 9/34 from the 5:1 gear box to the right side rear wheel giving you around an 18.89:1 reduction. Then use a 22,32,42 triple crank to drive a 34 rear sprocket. This way a large person with good cardio should be able to climb 30% grade hills and provid the assist needed to not burn up the clutch on a small cc engine.Maybe I was looking at the wrong video, but I do see in this vid
that the pedal crank does not move when you throttle the engine.
I like the look of your bike, and believe more users should adapt
chain drives over friction drive. I like the bike too, maybe a
hyper commuter?
What I got works for me but other future builders might be able to use this information should they need it. To get David Staton to make a discontinued triple chainring shift kit may take an act of Congress lol. But your system with a triple chainring crank could be a beacon of light for large riders in mountainous regions who want to use 50cc or smaller engines.Why don't you try your suggestion, sounds super. I am too
busy to develop more concepts now. Go for it! Mike
Sounds like my early years in Texas. Lived on a dirt road you could see a car coming from miles away down the road; just look for the dust trail behind the car lolWhere I live in the illinois/indiana area is so flat,
I could ride around on 25cc.