Eliminating the Pull Start

[5-7HEAVEN]

All I needed to do on my Lifan 7hp 212cc engine was trim the fan housing to clear the starter's nose.
The charging coil bolted onto the engine block's mounting holes behind the flywheel.
After removing the old flywheel, the new electric start flywheel bolted right into place.

The electric control panel needed a lower mounting tab on the fan housing.
My engine didn't have that.
However, I wasn't planning on using a control panel exposed to the elements, vandals and thieves.

Sooo, I'll replace the panel with a hidden ignition switch made for cars/boats/motorcycles.

It won't have all the panel's features.

The beauty of it is that I just need to provide voltage to the starter for a few seconds to spin the engine.
Once it turns over, the ignition coil operates independently to fire it up and keep it running.
When the engine's running, I can remove the key and put it in my pocket.
The kill switch on the handlebar will stop the engine.

There will not be 12v at the starter solenoid to "jump start" and ride the bike away.

If/when I install lights, then I'll run 12v from the ignition switch's "On" position to the head/tail/signal lights.\

I'll have to leave the key in the ignition switch, when the lights are in use.

Power for the engine and lights will be provided by a 6 ah cordless battery.
If that isn't enough, I'll either use two 6 ah batteries or a 9 ah one.

 

[Frogslayer]

I'm not sure if you know about solenoids but if you want your electric start to work there will be power to it. Unless you disconnect it or use like a giant throw switch. Voltage is what makes your starter spin fast but it's actually amps that give the starter torque.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Yes, Ill be supplying power to the solenoid, but only when it's time to start the engine.

I also have a heavy-duty aftermarket switch in my classic Chevy.
It's the size of a schoolkid's fist.
Battery to switch, switch to starter solenoid.

I might have to run a thicker-gauge wire to the solenoid.

Normally, on a car, there is a constant power to the solenoid, directly from the battery.
A big, fat 0-gauge red wire.
That's why it's easy to jump start and crank the starter at the solenoid.

No jump starts on my bike!

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I'm not sure if you know about solenoids but if you want your electric start to work there will be power to it. Unless you disconnect it or use like a giant throw switch. Voltage is what makes your starter spin fast but it's actually amps that give the starter torque.

Yes, voltage and amperes.

Two 18v 6ah batteries wired in series = 36v/6 ah.

Two 18v 6ah batteries wired in parallel = 18v/12 ah.

And then there's the resistor that reduces 18v to 12v.

Maybe I'll run 18v to my 12v starter for simplicity,
and use the resistor for the lights.

I remember running 12v to my 6v starter on my VW Bug.

No problems whatsoever.

 

[Chainlube]

Is there one wire from the charge coil? Then that will be to the battery.

If you have a jumper wire and touch the + on the battery and the - on the starter, what happens?

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Is there one wire from the charge coil? Then that will be to the battery.

If you have a jumper wire and touch the + on the battery and the - on the starter, what happens?

Yes, one wire from the charging coil.
Thanks for responding.

I don't have the DIY battery adaptor yet; it's in the mail.

When I think what'll happen if I jumped the solenoid's big contact to a battery, my answer is.....nothing will happen.

When I think what'll happen if I touch the battery to TWO solenoid contacts, the starter SHOULD crank.

I might be wrong; that's off the top of my head.

I take that back.

If I touch the hot wire to the small contact on the solenoid, it'll activate a relay, connecting the big contact to the starter's armature.

Since there's no power at the big contact, the starter won't spin.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Buy a electric start for it it comes with a key

I took your suggestion.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Since I eliminated the pull start, I intend to cover the gaping hole with a 1/4" x 7" clear plexiglass plate.

Besides lots of holes for air intake, the plate will have a 1" hole in its center. If the electric start fails, I can use a socket, ratchet adaptor and cordless drill to spin the flywheel nut.

Without using a ratchet adaptor, the flywheel nut will loosen up, when the engine spins faster than the cordless drill.

 

[Ozzyrules420]

Since I eliminated the pull start, I intend to cover the gaping hole with a 1/4" x 7" clear plexiglass plate.

Besides lots of holes for air intake, the plate will have a 1" hole in its center. If the electric start fails, I can use a socket, ratchet adaptor and cordless drill to spin the flywheel nut.

Without using a ratchet adaptor, the flywheel nut will loosen up, when the engine spins faster than the cordless drill.

U should just carry a jump starter type battery charger for ur phone it should work in theory

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Good idea!

I'll hook up a waterproof cigarette lighter to activate my phone and my doobie, lol.