Eliminating the Pull Start

If you plan on using a huge manual switch that can handle the amps then you won't need the solenoid at all. All it does is take a small amperage (like from a key or a switch that can't handle the amps needed by the starter) and use that to activate a bigger switch with a bigger supply wire that can handle the amps. If you're running your starter supply right through the large switch your solenoid is just unnecessary resistance and amperage draw. This is how I like to set up my derby cars.
 
Goes from battery + to the switch, from other side of switch to + on the starter. Ground is anywhere good. Preferably a starter bolt. I don't know if 10 amps is enough and if you use too small of a switch it can melt or weld itself on and then you'll be scrambling for cutters before your starter and flywheel are toast.
 
Thanks.

I'll be sure to install a heavy duty switch and a fuse box.


 
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When I removed the pull start from my 212cc Lifan, I made a delete cover from clear Plexiglass to plug the hole in the engine housing.

It’s 7” diameter and it looks AWESOME!

I had to trim down the starter cup to clear the plexiglass plate.

I need to drill a bunch of 1/2” holes in the cover for air intake.

However, I won’t drill a big center hole to access the starter nut on the flywheel.

It’s easy enough to remove the plexiglass cover, if I need to spin-start the engine.

I can clearly see the white fan blades on the flywheel.
I might paint the blades red, to match the bike’s red and black paint scheme.
 
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