Engine Bogs Down Under Load.

[Sitherus]

does it seem to smoke too much? you may have gotten pure oil into carb and then into bottom of motor

There's allot of white smoke. And because I'm using a radiator tube to connect my exhaust until I weld it, it leaks there.

 

[LewieBike]

My point still stands about the gearing, you're lugging the engine down trying to run it below it's best RPM range. I didn't get anything out of your video except that your bike seems to rev fine when the clutch is disengaged. When you engage the clutch there's a lot of noise, like maybe really worn out gears or the clutch is slipping badly from too much grease on the faces.

Your engine sounds fine, good stable idle, and revs up cleanly. Something about your gearing is not so good.

Also did you shift into the biggest rear wheel derailleur sprocket in back? You seem to be spending a lot of time pedaling this when it should be easily hauling you around. You have a bunch of gears in the back, shift into first gear and see if it will actually climb some hills.

You have a shift kit, make use of it.

 

[Sitherus]

My point still stands about the gearing, you're lugging the engine down trying to run it below it's best RPM range. I didn't get anything out of your video except that your bike seems to rev fine when the clutch is disengaged. When you engage the clutch there's a lot of noise, like maybe really worn out gears or the clutch is slipping badly from too much grease on the faces.

Your engine sounds fine, good stable idle, and revs up cleanly. Something about your gearing is not so good.

Also did you shift into the biggest rear wheel derailleur sprocket in back? You seem to be spending a lot of time pedaling this when it should be easily hauling you around. You have a bunch of gears in the back, shift into first gear and see if it will actually climb some hills.

You have a shift kit, make use of it.

i am usually in second gear, because I've never truly been able to get the chain completely true and when i put it in first it falls behind and gets tangled in the spokes. I've attempted to fix this many times but always end up having to carry the bike home after a test. This makes me not want to use it again until the next day because I'm so exhausted. However, today I will attempt this again, as I have recently installed wheel centering pins and adjusted the screws on the derailleur. I will post results in a little while.

 

[LewieBike]

Is the freewheel side hub flange wobbling? If you're using a cheap stamped steel rear hub, all bets are off, there will be no way to ever make that bike shift reliably. The bigger the sprocket you shift into the bigger the wobble will become and you can't fix that without buying a new,* high quality* rear wheel.

I would think anytime someone builds a shift kitted bike, that you should take the time and spend the money for the best working parts in the drivetrain you can afford. You might as well go back to just running the OEM pineapple spoke clamp 44 tooth rear sprocket, at least you'll get some use out of the bike.

 

[Sumsloppymeet]

i only run premium even add a little octane boost for s**ts and giggles just make sure your running a bit rich ive had no problems mine runs like a bat outta hell i can hit 40mph within like 300ft or so but im only like 150lbs

 

[Sitherus]

Is the freewheel side hub flange wobbling? If you're using a cheap stamped steel rear hub, all bets are off, there will be no way to ever make that bike shift reliably. The bigger the sprocket you shift into the bigger the wobble will become and you can't fix that without buying a new,* high quality* rear wheel.

I would think anytime someone builds a shift kitted bike, that you should take the time and spend the money for the best working parts in the drivetrain you can afford. You might as well go back to just running the OEM pineapple spoke clamp 44 tooth rear sprocket, at least you'll get some use out of the bike.

When i bought the frame it was a felt iron bolt made for normal 24" wheels. I went on amazon a bought this bike. I took the wheels and fork off of it and took the frame to a machine shop to patch the tank and make the rear wider to fit the wheels. When I got it back it looked good, so I had it powder coated. When I finally put all the parts on it, the rear wheel was crooked so I bought alignment pins to keep it straight. The cassette came from the huffy but the derailleur came from this bike I got them off it when I upgraded to something better.

The gears don't wobble but I've never been able to get my full range. Just today I took it out to test your last post, and found it skips 3rd gear and wont go into 1st or 7th. Im about to call sick bike parts and see if they can put it into simple terms by just telling me which gears I should buy.

I think if i had a smaller gear on the right where the motor connects to the jack shaft, and a bigger or same size gear on the left where the shaft connects to the chainring, then when the bigger gear on the chainring goes to the back i should have more power up hills regardless of which gear I'm in. I want to find a local mechanic to help me with the chain and gears but everyone that looks at it is not liable and will not allow me to come back to their store.

If i could get something like this going -

But like I said gearing has never been my thing. It's not easy for me with my skills the chain would fall between the gears and break and I would face plant from the hard stop.

I know this is allot of reading but, I want to apologize for when i tested my bike I did experience good pull when in my smallest gear.

 

[Member 28982]

Try a 50:1 ratio oil 2 stroke additive. Get one of those little bottles made for one gallon. Says 50:1. Mix that in a separate one gallon gas container. Add that mix to your bike gas tank... Why are you using an 8oz oil 2stroke additive to one gallon gas? Should be like 1.5oz oil 2 stroke additive
Also. Try replacing spark plug and gas lines/ filter every 500 miles.

 

[Sitherus]

Try a 50:1 ratio oil 2 stroke additive. Get one of those little bottles made for one gallon. Says 50:1. Mix that in a separate one gallon gas container. Add that mix to your bike gas tank... Why are you using an 8oz oil 2stroke additive to one gallon gas? Should be like 1.5oz oil 2 stroke additive
Also. Try replacing spark plug and gas lines/ filter every 500 miles.

as i was told i just replaced my tank with 4oz per gallon. now you want me to dump that out and use 1.5 oz? I should just get on it and ride even though its slow, to burn all the gas and at least get my monies worth. I know its like 3 dollars for a gallon but it adds up when ive replaced it 3 times I pay 5 for the oil too. so its like $24 spent so far.

Sorry I went on a tangent.
Would this help? I thought it was 4oz to 1 gallon but if its 1.5oz to gallon than im still using WAY too much.

 

[FNTPuck]

Do NOT use 1.5oz per gallon! That is like 85:1!!! He may have misstyped and meant 1.5oz per tank, which is half a gallon(and still a bit too little IMO but wouldn't cause any immediate damage). 4oz per gallon is fine, and what the manufacturers recommend. 8oz is way too much for a broken in motor, but is how much they recommended to run for the first 2 tanks.

Everyone has their own opinions with oil but I like to lean towards the extra oil side...once broken in I like to use 4.5oz per gallon on these cheap chrome plated motors, which is half an oz more per gallon than recommended. Ends up around 28:1 vs 32:1. I just use a measuring cup with oz on it and eyeball the middle between 4 and 5 for an empty 1gal can.

With the huge tolerances these motors have, the relatively low RPM, and various quality control differences between motors I don't worry much about the quality of the oil and just use whatever cheap synthetic is on sale or available and just use a bit extra. Walmart syntech or w/e works great and is nice and cheap. I'd rather have more of a cheap oil than less or an expensive oil. Has worked great so far on a lot of different motors and they all performed well.

Extra oil within reason won't hurt anything, but too little will. I would never suggest the 75-100:1 that some people run, and personally think 50:1 is not enough oil either. 32:1 is what is recommended by the manufacturer to cover their ass, and IMO a little .5oz extra per gallon is cheap insurance.

 

[Sitherus]

Do NOT use 1.5oz per gallon! That is like 85:1!!! He may have misstyped and meant 1.5oz per tank, which is half a gallon(and still a bit too little IMO but wouldn't cause any immediate damage). 4oz per gallon is fine, and what the manufacturers recommend. 8oz is way too much for a broken in motor, but is how much they recommended to run for the first 2 tanks.

Everyone has their own opinions with oil but I like to lean towards the extra oil side...once broken in I like to use 4.5oz per gallon on these cheap chrome plated motors, which is half an oz more per gallon than recommended. Ends up around 28:1 vs 32:1. I just use a measuring cup with oz on it and eyeball the middle between 4 and 5 for an empty 1gal can.

With the huge tolerances these motors have, the relatively low RPM, and various quality control differences between motors I don't worry much about the quality of the oil and just use whatever cheap synthetic is on sale or available and just use a bit extra. Walmart syntech or w/e works great and is nice and cheap. I'd rather have more of a cheap oil than less or an expensive oil. Has worked great so far on a lot of different motors and they all performed well.

Extra oil within reason won't hurt anything, but too little will. I would never suggest the 75-100:1 that some people run, and personally think 50:1 is not enough oil either. 32:1 is what is recommended by the manufacturer to cover their ass, and IMO a little .5oz extra per gallon is cheap insurance.

Good info glad you caught that. My tank is 1 gallon btw.