Engine dies uphill!!! (Don't laugh)

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by commanderroach1999, Oct 16, 2016.

  1. I was doing good until u replaced the factory cdi with a high performance cdi and a high performance carburetor.when I go uphills the motor seems to loose power even at full throttle.I checked the spark plug and it was really diety like gunk of oil. I cleaned the carburetor, the spark plug, and the spark plug hole. I have to pedal to get up hills and it is still not enough. I need a solution by Wednesday night so please help me. Even after the cleaning it still won't go up hills. It feels like I am not getting the full throttle I had the other day.

  2. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    Put the original carb and CDI back on, one at a time........
    Only make one change at a time so you can see any effects.
    Steve Best and Holly like this.
  3. Okay thx. I will try in the morning.
  4. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    sounds rich, probably need a smaller jet
  5. I don't know what they are or where I can buy them. I do know that it is in the carburetor.
  6. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    problem is the jets in the carb have too large holes allowing too much gas to flow. (or the air filter is too restrictive [which can happen from too much oil on it])
    go to http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/jetting.html
    The second half is about how to jet a normal carburetor. The stock NT carb is not normal in that it doesn't have an idle jet with a separate circuit for it.
  7. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    go back to CDI & carb you had - most 'performance' parts are a waste of money
    Holly likes this.
  8. U are right I wasted about $70. What a sh*tty decision.
  9. Tankmechanic

    Tankmechanic New Member

    An upgraded carb and cdi are a great start to performance . Will say this and leave it be. As with all performance Carbarator the trick is to tune it. You can't just throw a carb on and expect it to be a magic cure. Sounds to me you need to tune up the Carbarator. Myself have had excellent luck with boost bottles and the performance Carbarators but only when I've tuned the Carbarator to where I lived and also rejetted them.
  10. Took both off works great now
  11. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Well he actually bought gasbikes version of the sbp lightning cdi, I know my real lighting works really really good, who knows wtf is in the gasbike version but I somehow doubt that half the price is going to be equal in quality.

    Now I do ask what is the high performance carburetor you bought? Perhaps include a link or good picture? They sell like 3 or 4 types of high performance and if we don't know what it is we can't tell you if it's sh*t or not.

    I'll note they sell the skyhawk like high performance cnc carb, they have the overflow hose hooked right to the auxiliary oil injection port (I only assume it's that) which ends up sucking excess fuel into th motor at more than 3/4 throttle. That's a big no no, overflow is over flow for a reason, and with a gas tank mounted in excess of 6 inches above the carburetor natural forces of gravity will indeed force excess fuel into the air stream non-atomized making for a very crap experience. The mains oil injection port is left open with a breather tube, which introduces air right to both jet ports, also stupid.

    Change cdi to original first, then give it another shot, you might have an air leak, or possibly a badly tuned carb. If at all possible take the jet from your other carb and install it in the new one to help the jetting situation. This will give you a chance to reseat the carb for a tighter fit to help reduce chance of air leakages.
  12. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    what a shame. putting the original crap back on.
    don't be lazy. jet the new carb.
    Randall likes this.
  13. The high performance carburetor did ok but I think it was the high performance cdi that was the problem
  14. Holly

    Holly Member

    Spend your extra money on good brakes friend. Worry about high performance later.
  15. Steve Best

    Steve Best Well-Known Member

    You were told by an experienced member (MotorCycleRacing) to replace one at a time.
    You didn't listen. You didn't do it. You didn't learn anything.
    Go back and follow his advice and learn which caused the problem.

    If it is the the carb, follow Jag's advice, and learn about jetting.
    Most importantly, to stay alive, follow Holly's advice.

    To go thru live buying stuff without learning is an empty experience.
    To be happy, we need a Purpose Driven Life, and the first purpose is to learn.

    Holly and Frankenstein like this.
  16. I did do it first the cdi tried it fixed the problem. If I said I took off the high performance carburetor that was a typo. I learned that the cdi was the problem.
  17. Randall

    Randall Active Member

    I agree with Jag .... jet that carb. I did and now my beast kicks a**!
  18. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    I bet you bought a CNS HiPerf carb, they have a cabled choke which I have never been able to dial in, its choke causing issues with them, and I have never tried to fix it, just run NT or upgrade to Dellorto clone is what I've heard.

    Even tho you typod, that would be another common solution to the topic.
  19. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    I think he solved it about 18 months ago : )
    Holly likes this.
  20. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    What do you mean the choke is bad? Actually it's not even a choke, it's an enricher, it introduces a larger orifice with a path to the carb bowl and its own separate path into the carb throat.

    It shouldn't be dialed in, if the main and idle jets and the needle are in good then the choke is fine. The main and idle jets are different sized threads. If you hook the breather and the overflow and the oil injection tubes up wrong you'll have problems. If you make the choke cable too tight it may stay open or open in turns when the slack might get pulled too much. There should be a spring on top of the choke barrel under the carb cap, if it's not the barrel won't seat and you'll run too rich always. If the choke barrel gets sticky with old fuel or whatever it might not close. Even a grain of sand in that part can lock it open, this is common if the rubber cable boot gets torn open or never installed on the top of the cap.

    It's an annoying carburetor when put side by side with other carburetors available but it can be dialed in nicely for any motor and is capable of taking deeper breaths when you tune a motor for very high power. Notice they don't foam up too easily in colder weather either, and have a nice 'soft valve' for the bowl, so the valve shuts well and doesn't get destroyed by engine vibration as easily. Never had one flood a bike from a faulty valve, and the float height doesn't matter as much because it's not as touchy and has bigger floats which seems more stable.

    I like it, I'm used to it, and I can dial them rather quick, the key is knowing how the bike is riding at low med and high throttle before changing them up.