What do you mean the choke is bad? Actually it's not even a choke, it's an enricher, it introduces a larger orifice with a path to the carb bowl and its own separate path into the carb throat.
It shouldn't be dialed in, if the main and idle jets and the needle are in good then the choke is fine. The main and idle jets are different sized threads. If you hook the breather and the overflow and the oil injection tubes up wrong you'll have problems. If you make the choke cable too tight it may stay open or open in turns when the slack might get pulled too much. There should be a spring on top of the choke barrel under the carb cap, if it's not the barrel won't seat and you'll run too rich always. If the choke barrel gets sticky with old fuel or whatever it might not close. Even a grain of sand in that part can lock it open, this is common if the rubber cable boot gets torn open or never installed on the top of the cap.
It's an annoying carburetor when put side by side with other carburetors available but it can be dialed in nicely for any motor and is capable of taking deeper breaths when you tune a motor for very high power. Notice they don't foam up too easily in colder weather either, and have a nice 'soft valve' for the bowl, so the valve shuts well and doesn't get destroyed by engine vibration as easily. Never had one flood a bike from a faulty valve, and the float height doesn't matter as much because it's not as touchy and has bigger floats which seems more stable.
I like it, I'm used to it, and I can dial them rather quick, the key is knowing how the bike is riding at low med and high throttle before changing them up.
