engine froze now unfroze but wont engage

Now I'm starting to understand. I would bet that your piston rings are stuck. You did say you drove with no oil. This can be fixed by taking them off and putting them back. Never be like new but it can be done.I hate to sound like your father but why do more damage by trying to start when you and I both know that it will not start. Without comp. all you are going to do is make the piston go up and down another million times , scratching the cyl. walls even more. if I was you, I would do a search on this site and look up ..removing piston or whatever. You need to read,read , read as they say.
As always, I look forward to helping you and don't ever feel that you are a pain, I just don't want you to screw up your engine. They are made of the cheapest of materials, if you ask me.
 
Me again...lol..Be nice to you self and send it to Norman. From my read on things, it's the only thing that will help you at this point. He is offering to fix it for free and not only is this very nice of him, but I'm starting to think that this is your only option.I'd bet it can't cost more than 30 bucks to send, but that is just a guess.
PS. I don't think this has anything to do with your clutch.
 
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Sorry, it's dang long,

Lets put the brakes on and do some critical thinking here,,,,

These are all statements by the op.

Bike was ran with no oil / fuel mix. How long? A few miles turned into a half a day!
Statement by op,," I had to run the motor without oil for a few miles, then engine froze,,
im sorry if its so confusing, i think since i ran my motor with any oil for half a day it might have ruiend my motor"

Until the engine seized. Statement,," so i took the top off and had to push the piston down, this made it disenage when the spark plug was out and had no compression"

Possible damage? Seized piston resulted in,, broken piston, or scored cylinder, or broken rings. Symptoms? Piston moves up and down with head on and plug in. But won't start.

Piston moving was verified by? Removed head and spark plug, visual inspection. Op claims to hear piston moving while head and plug are installed. But won't start.

Compounding the issue the op determined the clutch was out of adjustment, so,,
Op tightened the clutch down until it no longer functioned, (engage or disengage).
Piston still moves. Statement by op, "i think it might be a clutch issue? i can't start it because, theres no resistence its too losse but i tightend the clutch as far clockwise as possible" and also,," bUt..I tightend the clutch screw 0on the right side and still the motor NOW does not engage. its like the exact opposit has occured." Along with,," my clutch seems all messed up, and no tightening it will help (on right side of clutch/gears)". Now he is at, "but my clutch arm is hitting the bottom of the carb so i dont even know if it will work this tight anyways. ahhh...if i do tighten the nut evn more on the right side, and make it engage, is there a way to adjust the clutch ARM to make it disengage therafter?" Still won't start.

"Engage, disengage", seems to be part of the problem! "so i took the top off and had to push the piston down, this made it disenage when the spark plug was out and had no compression."
Meaning? Now the bike would roll freely?
And looking at," bUt..I tightend the clutch screw 0on the right side and still the motor NOW does not engage."
Meaning? Now the engine turns freely, but no compression?

Considering that we already know parts ARE NOT necessarily interchangeable from different manufacturers / sellers, without knowing where the op got his 2 motors the idea of taking 2 to make 1 is really not an option,,,yet. Too much is unknown. I feel the only way to get the op back on his motored bike is a good inspection and possible top end rebuild, (maybe more?). How much is all this going to cost? Is it worth it? OR maybe its time to go a different route. It just might be a better avenue to take if the op changes from 2 stroke to a 4 stroke setup. I say this in light of the op's lack of understanding of motors, and his dependence on his bike for transportation. Since this is his second motor I would have to investigate his riding style,,, does he peddle to take off or does he ride the clutch? This is mentioned only because he has stated that he had problems with the clutch on his first motor. The Happy Time motor is not meant for everyone! But with so many motor and mounting options available to us there is no reason why a motored bike can't be built for his use.

Papa
 
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Sad but true "papa". I'm only new at this but when I first read his post I thought , wow , how in the world do you break the engine like that. I would guess that it could be a lousy install, with mounts that were putting pressure on the engine but I guess popping the clutch is a possibility.I think you are also right about getting another one. It seems to me that you guys in the States almost get them for free and by the time you factor in the costs, it most likely would cost more to repair. So SAD!
 
What's done is done.
Norman had/has the best idea with a very generous offer...ship both engines to him and he'll fix it free.
That reminds me.My car engine is making a small pinging noise...........now where is that norman. ;)
 
You sound like a cool guy Norman, that is very nice of you and I will look forward to seeing your pics. I did not realize he was that far away from you, it's too bad.
 
hey guys the head is not damaged but the piston?" is very scratched and dented. so..heres my questions..

1: how do i remove piston and replace with my old motors piston

2: can i even do this because my old motor was a 70cc and this new one is a 48cc?

3: once piston is replaced, can i use the old 70cc "head" without damaging anything. they line up, will this even give me more power or no? my old motor was powerful. thx
 
Before going any further,you should figure out what caused this and if any metal **** fell into the engine. The piston is heald in place with the pin you see when you look at the piston from the side and that pin (I'm guessing here) is held in place by a "clip" that could be removed with a screwdriver.Never had mine apart that far but this is what I've seen on most other engines.You really need to make sure there is no **** in the bottom of the engine, you cood blow the lower unit.
lol I guess krap with a c is a bad word
 
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