Engine has way less power after reed kit installation?

[Frankenstein]

Haha, was thinking the same just after I finished typing as I noticed that on one of the ones I have

It could explain why it’s working at high revs as it might have enough pressure to close it off or it not be such an issue at high revs

I was thinking of putting mine on glass with sand paper and flattening them
Even the screws seem to warp it a little when they screw in

I could correct the problem and it would work, but then they would warp in the open position again. He said it couldn't full throttle but could move slowly if he was gentle with it.

 

[jeeprider]

You switched the intake and it ran fine? You have a windowed piston in your engine?

Yes, I have a windowed piston. When I went to the original intake system, I put the stock piston back in.

 

[jeeprider]

If the reeds leak even just a tiny bit, would it cause that much of an issue? I can suck some air through the reeds, but didn't think it was enough to cause a big dramatic issue.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I'm sure you can check.. I think the air filter would be very oily if the reed valve is indeed allowing significantly more of the a/f to get reversed and blown back out than the piston port intake and a notched piston skirt or lowered intake commonly does anyway. The piston skirt isn't a perfect seal either.

There are supposed to be two types of reed, apparently. Some of the valves come with carbon fibre reeds and some come with a fibreglass pair. If you have any issues you can't solve with the type you have you could try to track down the other type, which will have a different set of issues to solve and/or avoid.

You probably need to make a bit more room at the ceiling of the intake port to allow the upper reed to open fully. Not sure that's the problem but it seems to be necessary from what I have seen, which is just a cylinder and rse style Reed valve that I haven't got around to putting together yet.
Why they made the valve point straight in when the intake port is angled downward is a mystery to me.

 

[Frankenstein]

I'm sure you can check.. I think the air filter would be very oily if the reed valve is indeed allowing significantly more of the a/f to get reversed and blown back out than the piston port intake and a notched piston skirt or lowered intake commonly does anyway. The piston skirt isn't a perfect seal either.

There are supposed to be two types of reed, apparently. Some of the valves come with carbon fibre reeds and some come with a fibreglass pair. If you have any issues you can't solve with the type you have you could try to track down the other type, which will have a different set of issues to solve and/or avoid.

You probably need to make a bit more room at the ceiling of the intake port to allow the upper reed to open fully. Not sure that's the problem but it seems to be necessary from what I have seen, which is just a cylinder and rse style Reed valve that I haven't got around to putting together yet.
Why they made the valve point straight in when the intake port is angled downward is a mystery to me.

Oh yes, I ground some out just because it didn't look right by eye, I wanted to give it room, I guess if you can't slide the valve up while against the port then it may not have room to open and is starving the motor.

I also took the time to use the copper spray from permatex to make a nicely sealed unit on all the gasket surfaces. Another curiosity, what did the plug look like? Maybe the angle of the carb changed too much and you have a different issue all together.

 

[Jug]

Its the reeds getting flooded
You have to ease up to high rpms to get to full throttle
If you widen your intake if its an rse that should pretty much solve your problem
The reeds don't fully open with the stock intake bore