Carby Engine idling WAY TOO HIGH.

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Gear_Head_717, Jan 1, 2014.

  1. Gear_Head_717

    Gear_Head_717 New Member

    So my NT carb on my bike is currently set on the next to leanest setting and the throttel cable seems to have no slack in it even though all the conection are as tight as they can be. I started it last night for the first time and it idled at atleast over 12 mph on partial choke. Full choke killed it when warm but open it reved up way high. My idle screw was out most of the way, and my carb and manifold connections seem to be very tight letting in no extra air, i think. It woulnt start today after I adjusted the clip to the next to richest setting. But it was 10 degrees outside. What do i need to do to make it idle lower?

  2. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    get some slack in the throttle cable... if you cant hear the slide hit the stop when you let go of the throttle... somethings wrong. you want at least 3mm of slack. at LEAST.
  3. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    if you're sure you've gotten all the slack possible with the two adjusters in the cable and your cable is properly seated in the slot of the slide, then you can get more slack by using a razor blade to trim 1/4 inch off the nylon stop of the handgrip - sneak up on it by trimming just a bit at a time, since too much is a bad thing
    Gear_Head_717 likes this.
  4. Gear_Head_717

    Gear_Head_717 New Member

    Ok i am going to go with crassius' plan after i run my bike one more time. I am going to let it idle and spray some starter fluid near my carb and manifold connection and if it revs up by itself it means i have a leak. Learned that trick online.
  5. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member slows down if theres a leak and you do this. coating the joins with some grease works, too...

    other way to get the cable to slacken off is carefully remove a turn of the outer cable wrap with sidecutters... or bite the bullet, cut the end off the cable, pull it into the casing a bit, snip off excess casing and resolder a blob onto the end of cable... saves permanently modifying any parts that can cause grinding of teeth when a new cable turns out to be too loose instead...

    i make my cables myself, so i dont have these problems... the doc says the teeth grinding is unrelated :jester:
    Gear_Head_717 likes this.