Engine Trouble Engine isn't accelerating consistently

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Goldbike, Apr 27, 2012.

  1. Goldbike

    Goldbike New Member

    So here is my problem. My bike starts fine and I can usually get a solid 20 sec of riding and then after that when I'm riding the motor will kind of die out where I turn the throttle and nothing happens but the motor seems like it is still on and then after a few seconds it catches and goes and then a couple seconds later it does it again. There are times where it will accelerate and gains speed at the rate it should but it is rare. I had checked every piece of my carb and gas tank and nothings clogged or dirty. I am thinking its an issue with my electrical unit. I have my kill switch disconnected so it isn't that.
    Any help would be appreciated! I just wanna haul again!

  2. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Try starting at the carby again, see if the choke is not falling, sometimes it may seem the choke is off, but if it's loose, might fall to the choke-On position.

    Electrical, try a NGK spark plug, quality copper spark lead and NGK plug cap.
    Wiring, it's a good idea to have what you say about not having the kill switch, make sure the blue and black wire are soldered and not crimped.

    Fuel, in the fuel tank's tap is a filter, that may cause fuel flow restiction, so try removing that filter and use external in-line fuel filter.

    Hope this helps

    All the Best
  3. DeathProof

    DeathProof Member

    exactly wat i thought 2 its the choke
  4. 2strokejosh

    2strokejosh Member

    also try your fuel cap cheak if its breathing proply, Mine was acting very simalar all I did was drill a small hole in the centre of the cap. =)
  5. Goldbike

    Goldbike New Member

    thanks for all the help!
    So i took the choke out completely and that didn't change anything. none of my wires are touching the frame and all seem to be connected pretty well. I ended up breaking my spark plug cap trying to mess with it and I took the wire and directly connected it to the spark plug and that seemed to help a lot but didn't completely solve the problem. The gas cap isn't clogged or anything and I have a clear tube going to the carb and the tube is always full. So now the engine will bog instead of completely being useless. I think i might have to adjust the clip in my throttle
  6. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    your float may be too low, the float bowl may be running out of fuel.
    it will slowly get fuel back into the bowl and that's why it stalls and then takes off again.
    you can replace your entire spark plug wire with an automotive one.
    the stock wire just unscrews from the cdi box (by twisting the wire to the left where it goes into the cdi box).
  7. tooljunkie

    tooljunkie Member

    i broke my plug cap too,i replaced it with an NGK LB05EP resistor cap.
    automotive carbon core wire has 1000 ohms per foot resistance compared to your original solid wire conductor plug lead.no resistance

    you may want to pull the magneto cover and look inside and make sure no wires have gone astray.
    make sure the white wire isnt connected to anything and is insulated against shorting.
    it may be wise to pull the plug and inspect it.
    my 48 cc will misfire/fourstroke on the top end,it still needs tweaking.
    a tach would tell you if the spark is dropping out.
    check head bolt torque,with a torque wrench.
    also check intake gasket and carb mounting.
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Have you opened the carburetor, and inspected the internal workings? Sometimes parts are loose/not tight. What carburetor do you have?
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    the stock spark plug wire is nothing more than some strands of copper wire. it's not even a real spark plug wire.

    I can tell you that this probably has nothing to do with ignition.
    It is more than likely a fuel issue.
  10. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    wattya mean, not a real spark plug wire? yes it is! only cars with their fancy silicone leads arent copper wire! mainly cus people hate hearing that clicking noise of unsupressed ignition systems on their car stereo :) my car has no stereo so i couldnt care less :) as for the mercedes next to me...i can see him playing with his hands free kit cus its clicking at him :)

    but it sounds like ignition to me. like that annoying centree tap is going open circuit...

    unfortunately, when its intermittent, the only way to find out is to replace the magneto :(

    fortunately they are cheap :)
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2012
  11. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    you mean to tell me that the spark plug wire that comes with these kits is good?
    I disagree with you on that because it's very cheaply made.
    sure, silicone wires will keep the clicking sound from coming across the stereo in a car, but they are far better made than the wires that come with these kits.
    my car still has points in the distributor, and I run accell superstock NON SUPRESSION spark plug wires on it, which is also what i run on my bikes.
    Now, are you going to tell me that high performance, non supression wires are not as good as the wires that come with these engine kits?
  12. tooljunkie

    tooljunkie Member

    non supression wires are a solid copper stranded ignition wire.just like the grubee wire.
    give or take a couple strands and a little more insulation.
    radio supression wire is carbon core,1000 ohms resistance per foot.does not like to be threaded into.
    just replacing the wire alone wil not make any difference.
    all im saying is it doesen really make all that much difference what type of wire you run,the factory wire is not worth replacing til it falls off.
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012