I didn't know how long it would hold up but it's working so a few years later. I think a guy or gal could probably drill and tap the sides and come up with some type of mount for that too.
One trick with these Chinese motors are to use loctite, or double nutting on studs so you can have the required torque and hold with out over pulling on the delicate chinesium threads trying to get tight enough so the fastener won't back off.
Mine works fine, the frame is really small, thats why I set it up like that. It's @CrispyLeaves98 who is struggling with a broken stud in a front engine mount.
No matter how much threadlock red I use, these 6mm engine studs keep falling out. The other day, one of the studs broke of in the engine, now I cant ride this thing at all. My chain keeps falling off the sprocket even though I'm sure there is enough slack but not too much. I'm looking for help on how to fix this. My bike is mounted to the engine using the bike berry rubber no vibration motor mounts.
There is one problem. Get rid of the rubber. Mount solid. Ive used many of 6mm studs, more then plenty strength for a stocker and slightly modded. Make sure everything is tight and dont over torque. Grade 2 all thread is more than plenty for most the bikes out there( only racers and heavy modders should step up to grade 5). Never use b7 rod, your asking for stripped case holes then. Just make sure before each ride you check em. A little wrap of teflon tape will act as a thread lock, but way easier to get off than Permanent red locktite. Stick with blue ( smurfs blood, gotta squeeze a whole village for a bottle of it).
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I didn't know how long it would hold up but it's working so a few years later. I think a guy or gal could probably drill and tap the sides and come up with some type of mount for that too.
DUDE, I JUST THREW A 50CC ON THAT EXACT BIKE FOR MY BOSS!!!!! Like no bull. lol. I just fabbed up an intake for it. If he would get real brakes for it, I would make it faster. He would rather just complain it's slow. lol.