Engine rebuild

maybe im alone here but i add a tiny amount of black rtv liquid gasket to all the seals such as these. also to the intake. i decked the intake port and also to the intake 'manifold' and just added a tiny bit of it to there and haven't had a problem. if it's an issue for other people please chime in.

I'm not using an intake gasket i just put a minute (VERY SMALL) amount of black rtv on the mated surfaces
High pressure gasket maker is better, gas doesn't affect it as much as RTV. I had a real wonky intake on a bike that I made a gasket for, I made two gaskets and a little high pressure gasket maker in the middle. Sealed real nice when torqued down.
 
I had a real wonky intake on a bike that I made a gasket for, I made two gaskets and a little high pressure gasket maker in the middle. Sealed real nice when torqued down.
I did almost the same thing on one of mine I had except I used Seals All instead...lol...worked great.
 
Here's a few pictures. I bought the motor over to a machine shop. When I get it back I'll get better pictures. As far as the gasket I have a OEM crank gasket. Will that be good enough?
Also I've seen a few videos that guys lightly sand down Where the two halves meet and the gasket goes. Should I lightly sand that down
 
Instead of making a new thread I'll just ask this question here too. I removed the drive pulley so I could change the bearings and the gearing. It seems like there's a lock nut that needs to be removed to get to the sprocket. I have a lock nut remover and I gave it some good pressure even tapped it with a hammer and it's not loosening up. I took it off device and screwed it onto a piece of wood standing up so I can get some better pressure on it . Still stuck....
Put some heat on it and it's still not going. The manual mentions it's right hand thread which is throwing me off why would they mention that isn't everything right hand thread ? Could it be a mistake and they were supposed to put left hand
 

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Instead of making a new thread I'll just ask this question here too. I removed the drive pulley so I could change the bearings and the gearing. It seems like there's a lock nut that needs to be removed to get to the sprocket. I have a lock nut remover and I gave it some good pressure even tapped it with a hammer and it's not loosening up. I took it off device and screwed it onto a piece of wood standing up so I can get some better pressure on it . Still stuck....
Put some heat on it and it's still not going. The manual mentions it's right hand thread which is throwing me off why would they mention that isn't everything right hand thread ? Could it be a mistake and they were supposed to put left hand
Figured it out. I just heated the crap out of it clean that let it cool down Did that a few times and it loosened up
 
I'm starting to notice a trend here that I'm talking to myself on these forums
 
Finally got everything together, test fitted on the frame, took the engine off and I'm doing a leak down test. From what I remember reading there's a washer on the clutch that prevents the clutch seal from leaking so you basically have to put the clutch together. But I just want to make sure that this seal looks like it's on right because it is leaking there. Can you guys tell me what you think.
 

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I threw the clutch on. Pumped 5 PSI in there. After 20 minutes it's holding to 4.8. Are those numbers okay
 
It's a batavus hs50. The moped is around 40 years old or so. It was given to me from a family friend and it's been sitting there for years in good shape. I got it running, drove it around for a few weeks but it was pretty slow like very slow. Kind of turned into a little hobby. Since I'm going to be replacing the crank seals and bearings I figured I would get some more speed out of it. Hence the big bore kit. https://www.treatland.tv/ProductDet...XSprune7DD44jE8SWR749EhIJaCQFRdwaAibGEALw_wcB

It is a belt drive engine which I'm also going to replace the driven sprocket from 13-11 tooth. Get a little more low end
I had one of these back in 7th 8th and 9th grade... It got me instant status with the "cool" kids.

It was still running like a champ when I gave it to my cousin. I wonder what he did with that I think I'll get a hold of him and find out. Maybe he still has it fingers crossed.
 
I sort of skimmed through all the responses to your post and I didn't see anybody say anything about this but you might want to get the longer needle bearings so that when it moves to the side or shifts not half of it is hanging out just about a quarter of it.

And if I am not mistaken... if those were thin washers that you found, those are shims to take up any slop in the case to keep it tightly centered.

Good luck homie!
 
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