Engine Trouble Engine stud hole stripped

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Bakaneko you just solved my 3 month problem with that video, thank you so much. You have no idea the struggle i went through to find something to catch the stud. I completely overlooked copper wire lol.
 
Bakaneko you just solved my 3 month problem with that video, thank you so much. You have no idea the struggle i went through to find something to catch the stud. I completely overlooked copper wire lol.
I'm not sure what size threads striped out? In the video it was a 6mm
If it was a 6mm thread the best fix is to use a 1/4"x 20 USA bolt The 1/4" threads are just slightly larger. To fix the thread no drilling is required just use a 1/4"x 20 tap (blind hole tap if needed) and make new threads. Their that close. The head of a 6mm and the head of a 1/4" socket (allen) head bolt are almost exactly the same DIA so they can fit in the same spot no problem.
Some people just cram the 1/4" bolt into the 6mm hole without tapping, But I don't recommend it

For striped out 8mm threads use 5/16"
 
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I'm not sure what size threads striped out? In the video it was a 6mm
If it was a 6mm thread the best fix is to use a 1/4"x 20 USA bolt The 1/4" threads are just slightly larger. To fix the thread no drilling is required just use a 1/4"x 20 tap (blind hole tap if needed) and make new threads. Their that close. The head of a 6mm and the head of a 1/4" socket (allen) head bolt are almost exactly the same DIA so they can fit in the same spot no problem.
Some people just cram the 1/4" bolt into the 6mm hole without tapping, But I don't recommend it

For striped out 8mm threads use 5/16"
Yeah tapping it is the way to go. My previous motor is pretty much a oversized paperweight because I crammed the bold and the threads are virtually gone. I also tried using these (in picture) and it worked for a while until strong vibrations loosened the studs again and stripped even more thread (if thats even possible). My conclusion- not to over tighten the nuts at the top, replace the lock washers everytime you take the head off, and stick with the acorn nuts. The engineers that built the bikes include them in every kit for a reason.
 

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When it comes to engines never torque bolts when engine is hot always wait until engine is cool and don't over torque.
Especially with Aluminum Engines

Mr. Grip reminds me of the Last Chance Method before a Helicoil.
Last Chance Method, is using thin strands of copper wire as ya screw the bolt into the half striped bolt hole. The copper wire fills in the striped threads. But no good when ya gotta put more than 7 ft lb of torque
I guess your gonna tap to a larger size bolt or use a Helicoil
 
Yeah but that means a larger hole in the head and cover and precise drilling in the main case.. Seems like a lot of work just to revive an engine that may or may not last. So i just went ahead and bought a new one. Although helicoils seem like a great investment..
 
Yea a head bolt? Easier to install a Helicoil in the case than drill the cyl and head. But $30 for the Helicoil Kit
On the positive side you'll always have extra 6mm Helicoils for the rest of your life :LOL: I think 6mm has 10 in a pkg
Drilling precise shouldn't be a problem, the drill bit will follow the old hole Just don't tap the new hole crooked.
 
You should be able to follow the drilled hole by eye. It"s when ya don't pay attention and your in a hurry when it will turns out crooked

If ya don't have a tap handle Use a 1/4 in ratchet and socket, Just start the tap slowly use oil as the tap starts to cut and make sure tap looks straight. (the tap is tapered so when ya start it now's your chance to make sure it goes in straight) After a few good bites of the tap stop and make sure it's straight. Back the tap up a 1/2 turn then cut a couple threads. Repeat. Only turn the tap a few turns each time stop back it out 1/2 turn after each few turns and brush off shavings. It's gonna cut easy on aluminum. The tap will be a fluted tap ya ain't gotta keep brushing off the metal shavings after each few turns But you should remove the tap when your almost 1/2 way done and brush off the metal shavings. If ya want, Use a *90 square to insure your tapping straight.

Just in case
If ya start off a little crooked by mistake Ya still can tap the hole straight. Ya ain't tapped the hole all the way yet.
First take the drill bit you used to drill the hole and smooth out the first few threads ya made. The first few threads will be tapered like the tip of the tap. It's OK to smooth them out. Then start all over and tap it straight this time. Ya might have to force the tap to one side to keep it straight when ya start it again but it will start cutting straight.
To prevent a crooked tapped hole, Make it straight the first time :LOL:
More Info than ya needed to know
 
Now that I remember, Aluminum can clog up the tap so ya should remove the tap and brush off the aluminum shavings every few threads cut. And use oil
 
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