Timbone
Well-Known Member
Since putting in my most recent engine, I've broken two engine studs on the rear of the engine. Strange. I thought my transition plate method was rather foolproof.
The way to remove the broken thread at the engine block is to use the dremel and cut a slit in the end of the stud and then back it out with a flat head screwdriver. It's never fun to remove the rear tire (dirty job!) but it's the only way to get there. Cannot understand why these engines do not come with 8mm studs...
I removed the stock studs and placed longer ones, locking the back of the studs onto the seat tube, hoping to add stability. There was some kind of instability there. I can tell you that the engine is absolutely rock solid. Zero deflection. My hope is that the motor is as much support member any part of the system.
Here is my pic:
The way to remove the broken thread at the engine block is to use the dremel and cut a slit in the end of the stud and then back it out with a flat head screwdriver. It's never fun to remove the rear tire (dirty job!) but it's the only way to get there. Cannot understand why these engines do not come with 8mm studs...
I removed the stock studs and placed longer ones, locking the back of the studs onto the seat tube, hoping to add stability. There was some kind of instability there. I can tell you that the engine is absolutely rock solid. Zero deflection. My hope is that the motor is as much support member any part of the system.
Here is my pic: