enter the yojimbo, a scrappy build for a beach cruiser

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by gestalt, Jan 10, 2011.

  1. gestalt

    gestalt New Member

    hiya, my name is elias. I hail out of boston, though I am originally from the seattle area I have been calling beantown home for about three years.

    I started this project originally just to do a rat rod job on a cruiser that I found rusting away in my neighbors back yard. but after riding it to work five miles each way after working a pedicab shift I found it too slow and cumbersome in its more stylish form. so I picked up a kit from daemon bikes and thought "wow, just $140 and a couple hours installation and I'll have a cool moped to cruise around on"


    first the motor didn't fit, so I whipped up and welded on a motor mount for the down tube...no biggie. then the sprocket wouldn't jive with the coaster hub so I dremeled the center hole out a bit more. it fit, but the bolts interfered with the coaster brake arm so I bought a single speed freewheel rim brake setup. but there was no room or brake mounts on the rear triangle in the usual space. I solved that by welding on a v brake mount from a bmx on the botom of the rear triangle, I really hope that doesn't make a problems for me in the future but I'm a safety third kinda guy and I'm not going to worry about it. then the exhaust pipe would get hit by the pedals so I torched and beat it into submission so that it now has a whole MM of clearance!

    I think that covers most of the obvious problems I had in the build that I managed to fix. now I have the whole bike together


    now I have whole new issues. first and foremost when I thought I had the whole thing together I couldn't seem to get the clutch cable to work properly.
    here's what I got

    is it possible that I don't have enough slack in the cable? I was hesitant to cut the housing to give me more extra cable.

    also I tried to start the thing with the clutch engaged and found it near imposible to turn the engine over by pedaling from a stop. is that normal or do you have to get going a bit first, then engage the clutch so your momentum turns the engine over.

    I also was a bit confused at the wiring for the kill switch as the colors didn't match the ones coming out of the egniter. do I have this setup right?

    aaaaaaaaaand finally, when trying to pedal start my ride I lost the clip that holds on the master link, anyone know the quickest way to get a replacement on that #415 master link clip, or maybe a whole new master link?

    I guess thats it for my intro and problems, I don't know forum etiquette faux pas in this thread so mods please move this or tell me if I did.

    /oh yeah, aussie :jester: where you at?

  2. Dave C

    Dave C Member

    Hi and welcome and it looks like you've found out it's never that easy ;)

    And a MM of clearance is plenty hehehe

    Oh, you can get master links from most of the advertizers listed on the side of the page. Shipping prices can vary a lot but I've found Pirate Cycles to be as low as I've found as is their prices on parts. Fast shippers, too.
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2011
  3. CJ5

    CJ5 New Member

    Blue to Blue, Black to black, The green wire(Killswitch) needs to be screwed in(grounded) to your bike frame, don't matter where, and the last wire, white wire(Engine) goes to your other Kill switch wire (usually two colors).

    That is the way I did it, I did it that way so I wouldn't drain any power from Engine/CDI. But you could do it the way Dave C is saying if you want a small headlight.

    I made a 12v lighting system on mine(not to change the subject).
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2011
  4. Dave C

    Dave C Member

    ...the white wire is for a 6 volt headlight. Blue to blue and black to black and then splice the two wires from the killswitch to the two magneto-to-CD wires, i.e.: one killswitch wire to the blue/blue junction and the other killswitch wire to the black/black connection. ;)
  5. CJ5

    CJ5 New Member

    Hold the clutch in while peddling, get up to 12 mph then let out on the clutch and hit the gas and it should crank right up. Also keep the clutch wire very snug.
  6. gestalt

    gestalt New Member

    Killer! Thanks for the info, I'm going to try to swing by the shop tonight. If the guy with the motorcycle shop is next-door I'm hoping to borrow a chain puncher and get rid of the master length all together just to get this chola rolling.

    I've lurked a bit here from working on other projects, I've still yet to see all the killer bikes yet. I'm going to slowly tread through the topics on my iPhone as I have no real internets at the moment due to a fiduciary dispute with my entertainment provider. Anyone have a crescent fresh thread they would recommend to save me some t-moblows woes?

    Oh, and any spit and bailingwire solutions are welcome for the master link issue, my road bike was stolen a couple nights ago and I need to at least get it up and running while I wait for the clip to come in.
  7. Karryhunt

    Karryhunt Member

    More than likely the reason you lost the clip on the master link was incorrect installation.

    Connecting the chain from the bottom, the open end of the clip must be installed toward the engine or to you left.
  8. gestalt

    gestalt New Member

    Yeah, the second I saw the second plate for the master link on the ground I knew what had happened and why. I had noticed my mistake about half an hour before while working on the brakes and plain forgot in my haste to try and fire it up. Haste and waste and whatnot.
    What I meant is there any ghetto way to keep that master link on there without the clip. But like I said, I might be able to take the master link out of the equation. I don't care for them on my regular bicycles and I'm starting to think less so with the bigger chain. I'm going to keep my ear to the ground for a good deal on a larger chain punch than the one I have.
  9. gestalt

    gestalt New Member

    Oops...double post.
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2011
  10. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    I have tried to make brakes mounted like yours work with a derailer,
    Too much trouble.
    The better location is on the front wheel.
    The easy fix for your chain setup is to replace it with stronger 420 sized chain from tractor supply Ace hardware or Lowes.
    If you are looking for Aussie Jester try endless sphere.
    Or the other motorized bicycle forum.
    Safe finally got to him , and he was banned
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2011
  11. gestalt

    gestalt New Member

    I just got an email back from daemon bikes and he said he would drop some of those master link clips in the mail for me free of charge. What great service!
  12. gestalt

    gestalt New Member

    Funny, I think it was the other way around at E-S, but I came around in the post safe era so that's just hearsay as far as I know.
  13. gestalt

    gestalt New Member

    so I finally got her up and running, found the master link clip for a #40 chain at the hardware store and it worked like a charm

    SO MUCH FUN!!!

    I've now completed about four round trips to work and some rides to the shop and around town. aside from freezing my *** off I'm still smiling. due to no speedo I can't tell you how fast I'm going, but it feels like around 30mph. I've already started working on my second build, thanks for the help guys!