Exhaust baffle

Vuit

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I've heard removing the exhaust baffle will make it go faster, I've been thinking of doing it, I have a 99 WC-1 I would like to know If it would hurt the bike in any way
 
I've heard removing the exhaust baffle will make it go faster, I've been thinking of doing it, I have a 99 WC-1 I would like to know If it would hurt the bike in any way
Wrench, our forum Whizzer expert, will let you know what to do. But yes, modifying the baffle will improve the performance of your Whizzer.
 
I've heard removing the exhaust baffle will make it go faster, I've been thinking of doing it, I have a 99 WC-1 I would like to know If it would hurt the bike in any way

Have you heard that enlarging the Intake Insulator plate hole to match the carb will make your bike go faster too
Don't just remove the insulator plate ya need it to keep the carb cool
Also make sure your cam timing dot is advanced one tooth counterclockwise

Yeah, the early Whizzer exhaust baffle is restrictive, removing it will help
Just remove the insulation packing,
Or you can cut off the end that attaches with a screw and just use that part.
Or remove it completely, But now your engine will be loud and raw Some like it Loud and Raw

Actually it's best to use the High flow baffle from Paul, It's different than what you have now
I use this on my Whizzer It helps performance and gives the Whizzer a good exhaust note (tuned)
High Flow Baffle will make your Whizzer perform better than having no baffle

The High Flow Baffle is a perferated tube wrapped with insulation
Tip: That gold foil is real thin, put an extra layer of Aluminum Muffler Tape around the Insulation
But don't wrap it too tight.


BTW if the High Flow baffle comes with a spark arrester plate (tab) Just cut it off it hurts performance


A Shark Tail add's a nice touch
DSCF8783.JPG
 
Have you heard that enlarging the Intake Insulator plate hole to match the carb will make your bike go faster too
Don't just remove the insulator plate ya need it to keep the carb cool
Also make sure your cam timing dot is advanced one tooth counterclockwise

Yeah, the early Whizzer exhaust baffle is restrictive, removing it will help
Just remove the insulation packing,
Or you can cut off the end that attaches with a screw and just use that part.
Or remove it completely, But now your engine will be loud and raw Some like it Loud and Raw

Actually it's best to use the High flow baffle from Paul, It's different than what you have now
I use this on my Whizzer It helps performance and gives the Whizzer a good exhaust note (tuned)
High Flow Baffle will make your Whizzer perform better than having no baffle

The High Flow Baffle is a perferated tube wrapped with insulation
Tip: That gold foil is real thin, put an extra layer of Aluminum Muffler Tape around the Insulation
But don't wrap it too tight.


BTW if the High Flow baffle comes with a spark arrester plate (tab) Just cut it off it hurts performance


A Shark Tail add's a nice touch
View attachment 181610
I appreciate the reply but im having a hard time understanding some of it, I'm not sure what you are referring to when you mention enlarging the insulator plate or the timing dot
 
I appreciate the reply but im having a hard time understanding some of it, I'm not sure what you are referring to when you mention enlarging the insulator plate or the timing dot

Insulator plate goes between the Carb and the cyl - Insulting the carb from engine heat
DSCF9148.JPGDSCF9149.JPGDSCF9150.JPG
Camshaft Timing Dot - Timing mark to line up with the crankshaft timing mark (dot)
One tooth counterclockwise
DSCF9153.JPG
 
How would I go about doing this?

First I hope your crankcase vent hose is venting into the atmosphere and not into the air filter,
This is a must, because if the vent hose is attached to the air filter it will fill the air filter with oil.
It was Whizzers attempt to meet EPA emission standards, But obviously the design was a failure

Remove RH side cover to access the cam. Be careful with the side cover gasket it can be reused
Check the timing marks alignment, if necessary advance the cam dot 1 tooth counter clockwise just like in the pic in post #5
The cam will just pop out if ya pull on it,
Tip: only pull out the cam just far enough so you can move the dot one tooth, Then pop it back in,
Take the valve cover off and hold up the valve lifters if the cam is hard to slide back in,
Be careful with the valve cover gasket it can be reused
After you have adjusted the cam put the side cover back on
While the valve cover is off check and if necessary adjust the valve lash Intake .008" Exhaust .010"
Set the valve lash with the piston @ TDC on the compression stroke

Match the hole in the insulator plate to the carb intake,
Use a Dremill Tool or whatever to make the hole bigger


Ya have to do all these things to get more power, Removing just the exhaust baffle alone won't give you more power
High flow exhaust baffle
Match insulator plate intake hole to carb
Advance cam timing dot one tooth counterclockwise
Valve lash IN .008" EX .010"

After ya accomplish that, then you can Shave the Cyl Head down .060" for more compression and use a Copper head gasket for even more power.
 
First I hope your crankcase vent hose is venting into the atmosphere and not into the air filter,
This is a must, because if the vent hose is attached to the air filter it will fill the air filter with oil.
It was Whizzers attempt to meet EPA emission standards, But obviously the design was a failure

Remove RH side cover to access the cam. Be careful with the side cover gasket it can be reused
Check the timing marks alignment, if necessary advance the cam dot 1 tooth counter clockwise just like in the pic in post #5
The cam will just pop out if ya pull on it,
Tip: only pull out the cam just far enough so you can move the dot one tooth, Then pop it back in,
Take the valve cover off and hold up the valve lifters if the cam is hard to slide back in,
Be careful with the valve cover gasket it can be reused
After you have adjusted the cam put the side cover back on
While the valve cover is off check and if necessary adjust the valve lash Intake .008" Exhaust .010"
Set the valve lash with the piston @ TDC on the compression stroke

Match the hole in the insulator plate to the carb intake,
Use a Dremill Tool or whatever to make the hole bigger


Ya have to do all these things to get more power, Removing just the exhaust baffle alone won't give you more power
High flow exhaust baffle
Match insulator plate intake hole to carb
Advance cam timing dot one tooth counterclockwise
Valve lash IN .008" EX .010"

After ya accomplish that, then you can Shave the Cyl Head down .060" for more compression and use a Copper head gasket for even more power.
Currently it is venting into the air filter, I took it off because of that, I'm sorry I have no idea what I would look for in terms of checking the timing mark alignment, I also have no clue on valve cover and all of that. I'm sorry I really don't have much knowledge when it comes to engines.
 
Currently it is venting into the air filter, I took it off because of that, I'm sorry I have no idea what I would look for in terms of checking the timing mark alignment, I also have no clue on valve cover and all of that. I'm sorry I really don't have much knowledge when it comes to engines.
OH well, you'll be happy with it stock condition going 25 - 35 mph, It'll probably run forever,
Whizzer's will draw attention where ever you go, that can be more fun than going fast, Have fun
 
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