Extreme rattling when idle

[Frankenstein]

Yea that's a little complicated... Will it effect it at all ?

it will make a difference yes but don't deck the bottom of the cylinder unless you use an extra gasket to keep the timing the same unless you want to retard the port timing.

Burned fuel is what you see dripping from the muffler, maybe a little less dark in this case, unburned will look mostly like the color of your 2 stroke oil, and possibly smell like gas of fresh enough.

 

[Street Ryderz]

Wait? Deck the crank case (lowering the cylinder) and then lower the cylinder further by taking an equal amount off the cylinder to compensate?

Not sure what I'm missing but I will note the poster doesn't want to break the engine open again and go even further with removing his crank...

Yes sorry I did get that wrong! no need to cut cylinder base make up the difference with base gasket thickness!

 

[Frankenstein]

Yes sorry I did get that wrong! no need to cut cylinder base make up the difference with base gasket thickness!

Ah OK, I also meant probably doesn't want to, I don't know if he wants to or not for a fact

 

[crassius]

can't tell from pic where leak is - if it is from the case bolt near front left of bottom of cylinder, then it is that bolt itself leaking and a flat washer (or sometimes an o-ring) should stop it

 

[Nate888]

Does anyone know why it is leaking oil in that area? I thought it was the base gasket but I replaced it and it still leaks.

Are you sure that's the area that's leaking oil to? Or could it be burnt it partially burnt fuel coming out the exhaust gasket and leaking down? The latter case is pretty harmless although you should sand or grind your exhaust flange flat and or replace your exhaust gasket. careful not to get abrasive grit into your cylinder

With the decking the cylinder you can use a really fine grit sandpaper or a medium grinding polish and a flat a piece of glass and do figure eights with it in make make the mating surface flatter which also I will lower the hide a tiny bit and I increase the compression. Basically the long and short of it is you can increase compression just a tiny bit by only taking like a thousandth of an inch off for the most reliability and not really much performance gain or you can take a little bit more off and increase compression four more power but eventually more wear and tear on the motor. Using a thicker gasket is a useful technique for going the other way on changing compression

 

[gary55]

If it is leaking at the head of the bolt it could be that the gasket between the case halves is damaged where the bolt goes through. I have ran across this problem on several new engines recently. The gasket was damaged on both sides of the bolt so it leaked where the cases met, but if it was damaged on the inside of the bolt only, then I could see how it could migrate to the bolt head. You should be able to see if this is the prob. by lifting the jug enough to inspect the gasket. Before taking anything apart I would clean it up real good, fire it up and watch it to see where the leak is originating from. If it is from the bolt head it shouldn't take too long.

 

[crassius]

not a damaged gasket there, just the factory exposing the threads of that hole & oil making it around and around the threads till it gets out - same happens under mag coil if mag isn't sitting flush over all 4 holes for its bolts when they are drilled all the way into the case

 

[KCvale]

Some day everyone will understand that buying a cheap engine kit is only cheap to start with, then it's frustrating and costly to continually repair.
That's why I only buy quality kits like Skyhawks, sure it's more $ to start with, but that's all you'll spend so you can spend more time riding than trying 'fix' a POS engine.

Just my advice guys, you can build for reliability, or build to tinker.

 

[gary55]

Some day everyone will understand that buying a cheap engine kit is only cheap to start with, then it's frustrating and costly to continually repair.
That's why I only buy quality kits like Skyhawks, sure it's more $ to start with, but that's all you'll spend so you can spend more time riding than trying 'fix' a POS engine.

Just my advice guys, you can build for reliability, or build to tinker.

The last three skyhawk engines I bought all had pits and bubbles in the chrome of the cylinders so save your breath on that.

 

[Frankenstein]

The last three skyhawk engines I bought all had pits and bubbles in the chrome of the cylinders so save your breath on that.

I would like you to post where you bought them from, a real grubee just wouldn't come to you like that, either it's a reputable source going rancid, or it's a source that's not an actual grubee supplier.