slickdude
Active Member
- Local time
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- Joined
- Dec 10, 2011
- Messages
- 462
For those who were wondering as I was, here is my
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?39386-Am-I-forked-Weigh-in-on-this-please
Anyhow, going forward from the ground up I will document this process for others who want to upgrade the Currie Ezips to a better and hardier system. Hopefully it will work out, and I will continue to update this important thread for others.
The first time to make a decision is when you Ezip battery is beginning to run down. If you have a newer than 2009 Ezip forget anything more than 24 volt batteries, the motors most likely will burn out. If you have an Ezip older than 2009 and the original older motor there is a great chance you can push it to at least a 36 volt system, maybe even a 48 volt system.
Once you come to a battery life ending of the currie Ezip, the decision comes. At this point, though more bucks, the Ezip is actually a pretty strong bike. Remember you can always transfer a kit to a new bike if need be. Considerations are mainly the motor power, motor volt needs and finally the distance and bucks you want to spend it on. In my case I liked the 500 volt motor at 48 volts, because the 48 volt 15amp hour battery when ridden slowly yields a great long distance. Because Papa motors sells their 500 volt motor is only 10 dollars less than their 1000 watt motor, buying the stronger motor was a no-brainer for me.
So I decided on the 1000 Volt motor with a 48volt amp hour battery made by Li Ping of China.
Mr. Ping is well loved world wide and noted for the quality of his batteries as they have been at the leading edge. He also personally responds to emails. The level of service from both he and the Papa Motors staff thus far have been quick, responsive and great, though I have had my lumps in the road.
The first step was to remove the old currie parts. This included, the throttle, brake handles, PAS sensor, all wiring, rear rack mount, motor and bracket, rear motor sprocket. Removal of the front wheel for the incoming Papamotors wheel. Here are photos of step one. More will follow in newer posts as I document this for you all.
The removal of the main stuff took about 3 hours total, though I constantly had interruptions as well. The bike can be worked faster if you turn it upside down.
The first thing you must know is your fork width at the drop-ins. They must be about 4.6 inches or over 100mm. If not, then the motor will be too fat. Here are photos of what I saw on the Ezip.
That is the original wheel and tire in the forks.
A closer look at the original Ezip Trailz hub.
After careful consultation with several local bike shops, it is believed the for drop-ins with the optional but mandatory torque bars installed will be strong enough to accommodate the 1000 watt powered front hub on the bike.
Here is a close up of the drop ins directly.
More to come on this project. Hope it helps you all!
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?39386-Am-I-forked-Weigh-in-on-this-please
Anyhow, going forward from the ground up I will document this process for others who want to upgrade the Currie Ezips to a better and hardier system. Hopefully it will work out, and I will continue to update this important thread for others.
The first time to make a decision is when you Ezip battery is beginning to run down. If you have a newer than 2009 Ezip forget anything more than 24 volt batteries, the motors most likely will burn out. If you have an Ezip older than 2009 and the original older motor there is a great chance you can push it to at least a 36 volt system, maybe even a 48 volt system.
Once you come to a battery life ending of the currie Ezip, the decision comes. At this point, though more bucks, the Ezip is actually a pretty strong bike. Remember you can always transfer a kit to a new bike if need be. Considerations are mainly the motor power, motor volt needs and finally the distance and bucks you want to spend it on. In my case I liked the 500 volt motor at 48 volts, because the 48 volt 15amp hour battery when ridden slowly yields a great long distance. Because Papa motors sells their 500 volt motor is only 10 dollars less than their 1000 watt motor, buying the stronger motor was a no-brainer for me.
So I decided on the 1000 Volt motor with a 48volt amp hour battery made by Li Ping of China.
Mr. Ping is well loved world wide and noted for the quality of his batteries as they have been at the leading edge. He also personally responds to emails. The level of service from both he and the Papa Motors staff thus far have been quick, responsive and great, though I have had my lumps in the road.
The first step was to remove the old currie parts. This included, the throttle, brake handles, PAS sensor, all wiring, rear rack mount, motor and bracket, rear motor sprocket. Removal of the front wheel for the incoming Papamotors wheel. Here are photos of step one. More will follow in newer posts as I document this for you all.
The removal of the main stuff took about 3 hours total, though I constantly had interruptions as well. The bike can be worked faster if you turn it upside down.
The first thing you must know is your fork width at the drop-ins. They must be about 4.6 inches or over 100mm. If not, then the motor will be too fat. Here are photos of what I saw on the Ezip.
That is the original wheel and tire in the forks.
A closer look at the original Ezip Trailz hub.
After careful consultation with several local bike shops, it is believed the for drop-ins with the optional but mandatory torque bars installed will be strong enough to accommodate the 1000 watt powered front hub on the bike.
Here is a close up of the drop ins directly.
More to come on this project. Hope it helps you all!