Few questions; fuel line, carb o-ring, plug wire, boot cap, metric couplers

[dotcom]

Hello world, couple questions.
#1 - Where can I buy metric couplers? Size M6 and M8 for the head studs? I tried ace hardware and home depot but they said they do not have metric. I checked ebay and im confused why this request seems so foreign. When I bought my high performance fred head type of cylinder head a couple times on ebay, it came with a set.

#2 - The china kits come with similar nuts for the exhaust but not quite nearly the same length as couplers but they would be better but I can't find them in metric M6 or M8 sizes either. Know which im talking about? The kind that are double the length of standard nuts with alot more threads which makes them harder to strip. usually found on the exhaust studs in china kits.,.

#3 - Places like thatsdax sells an o-ring for the carb that seals air leaks and im wondering what size and material they are and if I can get them at home depot or harbor freight. Seems like these brands or types are used with fuel (Viton, Nitrile or HNBR) and one is for extreme temps so im wondering which I should use for the carb. Im thinking HNBR would be ok but if anyone knows the size and type,, I would appreciate it,

#4 - I have heard people say its recommended to use a plug wire and boot cap from auto part stores. Is there a particular part # I should ask for at the auto parts store? They asked and it seemed they have lots of different kinds so I figured id ask ghere. Is NGK brand best ? or is one from the auto parts store best or make a difference.

#5 - Fairly often I find myself not having extra fuel line and in need of replacing a stale fuel line because I can't get it back on. I found some on ebay that come by 10 and 50 feet so I would like to know if these kind and sizes will work. They are being sold as lawnmower replacements but look good so I figured I would ask here first
50ft- $25.89 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/370527018288?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

10ft- $8.76 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/321033673209?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Thanks!

 

[mrbg]

Did you look the plumbing Dept, it's just a faucet O ring. I forget exact size, 5/8-11/16ths,the other stuff I don't know what you mean coupler's??

 

[dotcom]

cost is around $2 each or less for M8 size but who locally sells them is my question?

 

[mrbg]

Grainger.com

 

[dotcom]

Good prices on that website, thank you

 

[butre]

fastenal
those are called acorn nuts
buy an o-ring kit, it's about $8 and you get a billion of the things. just find the one that fits the best.
any good high voltage cable works, the problem with the china kit cables is that it's just speaker wire in big pretty insulation.
I use the black stuff with the braided cloth inside, it's way more durable.

 

[HeadSmess]

why you using coupling nuts anyways? sticking things on the other end? i was using them to mount my pipe bracket onto, so its logical i guess.

any hardware should have em, ours do...but then, you americanos use this archaic thread system that doesnt match up to the rest of the worlds threading system, so good luck without that one...

try looking in the "bolts" aisle, and LOOK. dont ask the employees, ive seen one tell a lady they dont stock flyspray... yet that was what he was packing onto the shelf when she asked. your run of the mill employee knows nothing, and cares even less

the o-ring on the carb is not necessary, all you have to do is make sure the carb is pushed on completely! in fact, the o-ring prevents it from going on all the way and will CAUSE a leak... if youre using the stock NT carb, at least. worst case, use a smear of RTV/silicone sealant. some manifolds require the use of a file on the weld to let the carb slide all the way on, too.

fuel line, just about anything works, but yes, clear vinyl goes yellow and hard... either just keep replacing it, or buy proper fuel line... 3/16 ID or something, i guess. mechanics usually have suitable sort of tubing lying in the bin...

they also usually have spark plug leads in the bin, as well

only issue with these engines is frame clearance. a lot of auto leads now have deep plugs, if they even have leads anymore (damn these coil over plug setups!) and the caps really do not appreciate being bent to clear the frame, if necessary. i used neon sign transformer wires, 15kv silicone stuff...


oh, you will need the little "nipple" nut thingy thats screwed onto the end of the plug or the auto leads wont clip on...

 

[mrbg]

I haven't been on the Grainger website, I used to get their catalog in the mail. I know they have everything and if it's Grainger approved stock it's good stuff.

 

[dotcom]

Acorn nuts are not what I was referring to,....

I prefer the threaded rod coupling nuts since they are much harder to strip. I mainly use them on head bolts ever since a set came with the Fred head.

I think I will leave out the o-ring and take the advice which seems logical.

Onemore question comes to mind while I am at it.
I just put a bike together which seems like my best yet which got up to 39mph yesterday but it will not idle properly. If I turn the idle screw down it will go down but only temporary. Once I go and stop again, it will idle too high and I have to lower it again which will make it too low. Once I go higher on the screw, it's too high. I checked the throttle cable but that's not it. Could it be I switched the jet to #66 and set the clip on second from top? I was thinking that's it. This black one is my new personal bike. And the other 3 are for sale

 

[HeadSmess]

sounds like an air leak. from manifold gasket to carb clamp to...um... crank seals, possibly.

main jet wont affect idle, or not to that degree, at least.

popping the needle down(or clip up) will change the idle to some degree. try it on the lowest groove. if that doesnt do anything, start checking for leaks.

even having no rubber boot where the cable enters the carb can be an issue... can be...