Finally got out of the neighborhood with Predator 212cc stock on Meridian trike.

[5-7HEAVEN]

Oh no sir that is way to slow, I can't have 5 hp golf carts passing me by . I might be older but I'm still a bit of speed demon. Well try the 44t frisbee first and see how she fares. I might be able to film some footage without thumper shaking me to bits.

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Like Dan said, ungovern.

THEN you'll have low end power midrange and top speed.

 

[wolvmarine]

Ungovern for 5000 rpm.
If you keep your 4.4:1 reduction, buy replacement clutch pads and springs in bulk.

Fudge, I'm trying to mitigate some loose a55 chain now and it started raining before I could snug her up for a run. I've actually added a spare 212 thin mounting plate between the main mount and the motor but it wasn't enough to take up the slack....soooo

.... I figure out a odd little contraption to take all the slack out of the chain(reminds of a tiny log splitter) for "testing purposes", yes I know its one of fav' notions. I don't have any washers so I'll probably set a couple of these winched-shims under the "short" end of the engine block and run her as is. She works real nice and the strangle knot is protected by the shim itself, symbiosis! Actually surprised I was able to cobble that together. I knew I would use the 45deg cut bar ends for something. "Necessity is the mother of invention" -some guy named Playdoh

 

[Chainlube]

Not sure what the nylon cord does, but the first mile is going to chew through it.

 

[Wrench]

No comment, I'm busy watching the Mickey Mouse show

 

[Frogslayer]

You put an ag hitch on that baby and that rope would shim would hold for generations lol

 

[wolvmarine]

Not sure what the nylon cord does, but the first mile is going to chew through it.

The cordage is never touching engine mount, Its holding the (1) backend via strangle knot(should be enough). Goes through "canopy" of wedge and exits through top of canopy(2) no compression/pinching at wedge location. Again, this will work in a pinch, yep just did that. It's actually similar to the clamp to your steering handles (img 2), right.

 

[wolvmarine]

You put an ag hitch on that baby and that rope would shim would hold for generations lol

"testing purposes", yep just made sure I placed that in there. Don't need "generations" I have a stick welder and plenty of bubble gum if needed.

 

[Chainlube]

"testing purposes", yep just made sure I placed that in there. Don't need "generations" I have a stick welder and plenty of bubble gum if needed.

Maybe put a tack on it too then, hate to see the chain come off and mess up the wheel.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

The cordage is never touching engine mount, Its holding the (1) backend via strangle knot(should be enough). Goes through "canopy" of wedge and exits through top of canopy(2) no compression/pinching at wedge location. Again, this will work in a pinch, yep just did that. It's actually similar to the clamp to your steering handles (img 2), right.


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Here's an idea!

Get four bicycle quills(the wedges).

Ream out 2 quills, so that the rod easily passes thru them.

Place these right under the top motor mount plate, right at the edges. towards the rear, so they can be adjusted.

Slide the rods thru the 2 reamed quills, then screw to the other 2 quills.

The screwed-on quills are placed towards the front of the engine motor mount,
between the 2 motor mount plates.

Now, when you tighten the rods, the wedges will raise the top motor mount plate.

Doing this will raise the engine and tighten the chain.

 

[wolvmarine]

Maybe put a tack on it too then, hate to see the chain come off and mess up the wheel.

No need this POS sprocket came off the stamp machine crooked AF. I spent a good amount of time centering the hell out of this sprocket just to find out the stamping itself on the sprocket moves sided to side. It wavers just enough to bite the inner plate of the chain, dropping the chain with a thud when the crooked teeth go back out. Great!