Finally got out of the neighborhood with Predator 212cc stock on Meridian trike.

Here's an idea!

Get four bicycle quills(the wedges).

Ream out 2 quills, so that the rod easily passes thru them.

Place these right under the top motor mount plate, right at the edges. towards the rear, so they can be adjusted.

Slide the rods thru the 2 reamed quills, then screw to the other 2 quills.

The screwed-on quills are placed towards the front of the engine motor mount,
between the 2 motor mount plates.

Now, when you tighten the rods, the wedges will raise the top motor mount plate.

Doing this will raise the engine and tighten the chain.
The whole reason for this process was the lack of other options, hence the "mother invention" bit, also why I used "cobbled". I have washers on the way, but I was figuring out the best method of taking the slack out, "the clay model" as it were. Nobody expects you to drive the clay model. Its there to figure out how to get everything to work well together. Plus a pair of wedges will hold the motor up where I need it to place the washers. Its more for guidance. Expanding pliers are weak and don't lock; expanding locking pliers are too large for this space; door wedges are too soft. The list goes on. If nobody likes the idea so be it. It's an effective quick way to take the slack of the chain

Force applied is at a 1:3 angle favoring the 100lb ratchet. So over 300lb force would be required to defeat this leverage. ~1/2 * 50lb motor bouncing about at idle would require some serious motivation to produce enough force to spit it out.
 
Is it just me or is that chain way to tight? Just saying it seems like it's almost to the point it pulls the motor on it's rubber mounts if you look closely!
I usually line them up by letting the chain fall naturally from the driving 10t sprocket on level ground. Which pic are you referencing anywho?
 
Post #1, second picture.

Im not saying the sprockets aren't lining up.

It's just what I THINK I'm seeing.😄
 
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So I flipped/moved the damn junky sprocket to the other side of the wheel.
Better to take out the enemies against the Great ROman Empire!

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I've decided on another method of spacing the motor from the chain. Oddly the double rubber mounts takes alot of the vibration out of the system. Hitting potholes in the road feels less harsh than before.


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Been working on a 3K ebike red one below. Battery coming in this week hopefully I should be able to get her to 50mph !!!

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I'll have to gear up to try a 50+mph run.

Flip flops and Kyle gear just won't do....
 
Could be an optical illusion or not. A hub needs to be pulling on all spokes in the direction of travel, never pushing on the spokes. With increased HP our motors are using this is even more critical especially on the rear wheel. Am I wrong, not 100% sure but need to look at a properly laced wheel to be sure. In the wheel above it seems your spokes are in a neutral, pushing and pulling position. That doesn't seem right.
As a bike mechanic with a few thousand wheel builds this wheel is an accident waiting to happen. The small flange of the hub and the weak 14 gauge spokes being subject to 6 .something H.P. while being side loaded when turning at speed? 40 MPH? insanity. That wheel is going to collapse catastrophically, seriously injuring the owner. If any vehicle could use rebuilding the hubs with 12 gauge spokes it's this trike and the rims are really soft Chinese hoops, the damage from the last spoke warpage is still present in the rim. You need to stop riding this death trap.
 
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