Finally got the Mack Mag built!

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Muffler you aint kiddin! This pipe is like a screamin banshee. It’s not in the photo above but I have a hotdog muffler temporarily on there right now and it does help to cut noise down, but not sure how it affects performance, any mufflers you’d suggest? I do have a 36T sprocket I haven’t opened yet for this bike maybe I’ll see what that can do this weekend. I have front disc brakes and rear caliper brakes due to the sprocket, are there better brakes I could be using?
A baffle type muffler adds more backpressure (than you might want) because it slows the flow by making it change direction suddenly. An absorption type muffler would flow faster (for its diameter) and add less extra back pressure. I guess the pipe be designed for one or the other.
These are absorption type:
maxmoto_muffler.jpg592325575_MR46j-M.jpg
I am going to have a go at making one very soon. I just got the glass pack sheet. :)

Brakes:
Front : There are definitely a lot of great disc brakes out there. Hydraulic or cable operated or even some hydraulic disc brake calipers that are cable actuated so they can be used with the "dual pull" tricycle lever that lots of other people like and I won't even try lol! :p
I like my hydraulic brake, with mineral oil as the fluid which won't strip paint or burn me if I spill it.
The Avid BB7 seems to be the best cable operated disc brake, going by the reviews. If you get just the caliper on its own it is very inexpensive.

For the rear brake it would be a big improvement if you can switch from the single pivot caliper brake to a dual pivot brake like a dual pivot caliper (aka U brake, bmx brake) or a cantilever (canti, centre pull canti) or linear pull cantilever (V brake). The mounting posts for dual pivot are not included on your frame (actually neither is a mount for single pivot, that's a fender mount hole you're using) but I have a plan for adding those without welding or drilling or doing anything permanent to the frame.
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/fitting-a-rim-brake-to-a-frame-with-no-brake-mounts.51969/
 
A baffle type muffler adds more backpressure (than you might want) because it slows the flow by making it change direction suddenly. An absorption type muffler would flow faster (for its diameter) and add less extra back pressure. I guess the pipe be designed for one or the other.
These are absorption type:
View attachment 82501View attachment 82502
I am going to have a go at making one very soon. I just got the glass pack sheet. :)

Brakes:
Front : There are definitely a lot of great disc brakes out there. Hydraulic or cable operated or even some hydraulic disc brake calipers that are cable actuated so they can be used with the "dual pull" tricycle lever that lots of other people like and I won't even try lol! :p
I like my hydraulic brake, with mineral oil as the fluid which won't strip paint or burn me if I spill it.
The Avid BB7 seems to be the best cable operated disc brake, going by the reviews. If you get just the caliper on its own it is very inexpensive.

For the rear brake it would be a big improvement if you can switch from the single pivot caliper brake to a dual pivot brake like a dual pivot caliper (aka U brake, bmx brake) or a cantilever (canti, centre pull canti) or linear pull cantilever (V brake). The mounting posts for dual pivot are not included on your frame (actually neither is a mount for single pivot, that's a fender mount hole you're using) but I have a plan for adding those without welding or drilling or doing anything permanent to the frame.
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/fitting-a-rim-brake-to-a-frame-with-no-brake-mounts.51969/
I did notice this little sausage muffler makes the bike run like crap lol so I will definitely be looking into the absorption type you’re talking about. And as for the brakes I don’t believe the disc brakes that came on here at that stellar considering I’ve probably already worn through half the pads on them, or at least that’s what it looks like. Do you have any links to the hydraulic style ones you’re talking about? I’d like to keep the cost down but still have better braking power than I have now for sure, my front disc brake could cook an egg if I stop hard enough. I’d like something cable operated so I can use my dual lever, that you seem to hate haha. What makes the braking power better with V brakes over the caliper brake I have on the rear right now? And if you have any links to a decent absorption muffler I’d appreciate that as well, or any links on how to make them.
 
I did notice this little sausage muffler makes the bike run like crap lol so I will definitely be looking into the absorption type you’re talking about. And as for the brakes I don’t believe the disc brakes that came on here at that stellar considering I’ve probably already worn through half the pads on them, or at least that’s what it looks like. Do you have any links to the hydraulic style ones you’re talking about? I’d like to keep the cost down but still have better braking power than I have now for sure, my front disc brake could cook an egg if I stop hard enough. I’d like something cable operated so I can use my dual lever, that you seem to hate haha. What makes the braking power better with V brakes over the caliper brake I have on the rear right now? And if you have any links to a decent absorption muffler I’d appreciate that as well, or any links on how to make them.
You fancy the cable actuated hydraulic brakes, huh? Could be the advantages of both, or I suspect the disadvantages of both! You should watch some of the Youtube videos because I can't offer any personal experience and you want to be well informed before you invest your hard earned money. The only cable-hydraulic brake I know of is the TRP HY-RD but there may be others.

The Avid BB7 is very well liked though and it's simple to use and work on because it is just a very good cable disc brake.

The single pivot caliper you have is a long reach single pivot caliper and as such it has long arms to reach around the mtb tyre (or usually a road tyre with a fender) and it will never have as much power as even a dual pivot caliper (U brake), but since you will have to fit the mounting points for a dual pivot brake (as described in the linked thread) you might as well put them below the rim where they can be used to fit a V brake. V brakes (and canti's) use a longer cable pull, so you must be sure you have the right lever, and I think you do.. Which actually means that the lever you have is wrong for the single pivot caliper by the way.
Anyway, the long cable pull means that the cable doesn't carry as much load, the leverage is more at the brake rather than at the lever on the handlebar, so the cable does not stretch as much when you squeeze the lever. That gives it more of a solid feel. I'm not explaining very well lol.
Buy a decent V brakes though if you do buy one at all, because some of the Walmart s**te is just stamped steel and will flexy instead of being nice and rigid. Anything Avid, Tektro, Shimano is probably okay but it shouldn't look like it was stamped from plate.
Also, buy used stuff if you can. Then it won't feel like you wasted money when you upgrade later to a disc brake and top hat sprocket on the rear anyway! :)


Oh and absorption mufflers.. I'll be making one tomorrow but your Google is the same as mine and that's where most of my info is coming from lol. :p
 
You fancy the cable actuated hydraulic brakes, huh? Could be the advantages of both, or I suspect the disadvantages of both! You should watch some of the Youtube videos because I can't offer any personal experience and you want to be well informed before you invest your hard earned money. The only cable-hydraulic brake I know of is the TRP HY-RD but there may be others.

The Avid BB7 is very well liked though and it's simple to use and work on because it is just a very good cable disc brake.

The single pivot caliper you have is a long reach single pivot caliper and as such it has long arms to reach around the mtb tyre (or usually a road tyre with a fender) and it will never have as much power as even a dual pivot caliper (U brake), but since you will have to fit the mounting points for a dual pivot brake (as described in the linked thread) you might as well put them below the rim where they can be used to fit a V brake. V brakes (and canti's) use a longer cable pull, so you must be sure you have the right lever, and I think you do.. Which actually means that the lever you have is wrong for the single pivot caliper by the way.
Anyway, the long cable pull means that the cable doesn't carry as much load, the leverage is more at the brake rather than at the lever on the handlebar, so the cable does not stretch as much when you squeeze the lever. That gives it more of a solid feel. I'm not explaining very well lol.
Buy a decent V brakes though if you do buy one at all, because some of the Walmart s**te is just stamped steel and will flexy instead of being nice and rigid. Anything Avid, Tektro, Shimano is probably okay but it shouldn't look like it was stamped from plate.
Also, buy used stuff if you can. Then it won't feel like you wasted money when you upgrade later to a disc brake and top hat sprocket on the rear anyway! :)


Oh and absorption mufflers.. I'll be making one tomorrow but your Google is the same as mine and that's where most of my info is coming from lol. :p
I am currently looking at the BB7 on amazon and it’s got great reviews and seems much simpler than messing with hydraulics from what I can see. They have 160, 180, and 200mm what would you suggest? And I have looked at my rear sprocket mount and don’t see how I could fit a disc brake caliper on there? Most configurations I come up with require a very small, 30T or less sprocket to have the room to fit the caliper?
 
I am currently looking at the BB7 on amazon and it’s got great reviews and seems much simpler than messing with hydraulics from what I can see. They have 160, 180, and 200mm what would you suggest? And I have looked at my rear sprocket mount and don’t see how I could fit a disc brake caliper on there? Most configurations I come up with require a very small, 30T or less sprocket to have the room to fit the caliper?
The BB7 would be a great choice and much less expensive than the TRP HY-RD and I of course would choose the 200/203mm option (you saw mine?! Lol). You'll need the correct adapter to position the caliper out at the right distance for the 200 or 203mm rotor. Is it a kit with all that stuff included?

I would have to see detailed pictures and diagrams to help you with your rear sprocket and potential rear disc brake, and even then it isn't something that have tried. I opted for a good hydraulic rim brake and four rear sprockets lol. There are many threads about this and other members who have fitted a rear disc brake and top hat sprocket to a mountain bike.
 
The BB7 would be a great choice and much less expensive than the TRP HY-RD and I of course would choose the 200/203mm option (you saw mine?! Lol). You'll need the correct adapter to position the caliper out at the right distance for the 200 or 203mm rotor. Is it a kit with all that stuff included?

I would have to see detailed pictures and diagrams to help you with your rear sprocket and potential rear disc brake, and even then it isn't something that have tried. I opted for a good hydraulic rim brake and four rear sprockets lol. There are many threads about this and other members who have fitted a rear disc brake and top hat sprocket to a mountain bike.
Does the 200mm brake better/less heat than a 160mm? And the one I found is here...

Avid BB7 Mechanical Front/Rear Disc Brake with 200mm G2 Clean Sweep Rotor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00553YPEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SBRlBbG5KG9RH

...and give me a second I’ll try and post pictures of my rear sprocket setup.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Here’s my sprocket setup. It’s a 44t sprocket and I had to shim it out in order to keep the wheel from rubbing chain but also to align it with the engine’s drive sprocket. And then I just tried to set the stock brake caliper where it was supposed to go to show that I can’t get it to fit in there?
9AC5E1BE-BEB9-4BDC-97BD-193C6AC922ED.jpeg
9ABE323B-6D5A-4444-8B98-F0B445453A7D.jpeg
DFEE734A-EFFE-4C70-9757-7B036C0697E0.jpeg
8A51F01D-7292-4C33-931F-EA038FBEE0B9.jpeg
 
And I guess while I’ve got ya what would you recommend I gap my spark plug to? I’ve never messed with gapping them I just run the B8HS right out of the box?
 
Does the 200mm brake better/less heat than a 160mm? And the one I found is here...

Avid BB7 Mechanical Front/Rear Disc Brake with 200mm G2 Clean Sweep Rotor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00553YPEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SBRlBbG5KG9RH

...and give me a second I’ll try and post pictures of my rear sprocket setup.
Yeah, get the biggest one and it'll have a bit more leverage as well as the extra mass and surface area for dealing with all that heat.
I didn't want to open the link, I'd have to clear my browser again lol. You should check for a better price elsewhere too, Amazon doesn't usually have the the best deal.

When you get the brake you'll be able to see if the external dimensions are different enough from the brakes you have now that you might have more possibilities for the rear.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
And I guess while I’ve got ya what would you recommend I gap my spark plug to? I’ve never messed with gapping them I just run the B8HS right out of the box?
I wouldn't know. I have an iridium plug that is supposed to be perfect already so I've not messed with it.
 
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