Finally rode my 49cc 4 stroke - Few issues

Tommy22

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First off - Does anyone know where I can buy the throttle cable bracket for the carb? I tried to grind down the one that came with the engine because the fitment was so tight..but basically ruined it. I ended up just just holding the throttle cable with zip ties - which worked perfectly lol But obviously not an ideal long term solution.

Also, the chain kept coming loose after very short drives. The rear wheel and engine were both staying put, bolted very tight..so I think the chain is just stretching because it is new. After a few adjustments, seems to be stretching less now. I tried to run without the tensioner, but seems to be better with it.. Keeps the chain from rubbing on the bottom bike frame/arm.

After about 6 miles of riding the clutch locked up the rear wheel. The last few miles it was getting a little jerky at certain speeds.. Then finally it locked up and I had to carry the rear of the bike home, which sucked. I haven't taken it apart yet, but will probably just order another clutch. Virtually everything that came with my kit was junk (other than the engine itself, so far). So I'm assuming it was just a very crappy clutch.

The engine plate was a joke also. I had to grind it a bunch just to make it work..but it is definitely not ideal.. I will order another. I will never buy another complete kit again. Better off piecing everything together individually.

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One of the issues I can see. Is the sharply cut Zip Ties. You'll understand after you scratch your hands and arms a few times.
You really should get in the habit of cutting Zip Ties nice and flush.
I know I'm always annoyed when I get scratched by a sharply cut Zip Tie. Usually left behind as a Booby Trap by an electrician.
 
One of the issues I can see. Is the sharply cut Zip Ties. You'll understand after you scratch your hands and arms a few times.
You really should get in the habit of cutting Zip Ties nice and flush.
I know I'm always annoyed when I get scratched by a sharply cut Zip Tie. Usually left behind as a Booby Trap by an electrician.
lol Well, they are dangerously close to the crotch area of the rider...

I was thinking of just using a hose clamp for the throttle bracket. Maybe not the prettiest, but I could paint it and it would work fine.
 
Actually..Looking at pictures online..My clutch and bell rotor plate are totally different than all the other ones I see online for sale. The clutch does not look worn at all, and it freed up once I started removing bell rotor and now functions fine. Of course, I don't exactly trust it though. I would like to switch to something more reliable. The clutch is stuck in there good..I will have to use a puller to remove it.
 
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Actually..Looking at pictures online..My clutch and bell rotor plate are totally different than all the other ones I see online for sale. The clutch does not look work at all, and it freed up once I started removing bell rotor and now functions fine. Of course, I don't exactly trust it though. I would like to switch to something more reliable. The clutch is stuck in there good..I will have to use a puller to remove it.
i have the same one, you need to heat up the bushing (gold thing, it should come off the clutch separately) and soak it in oil for a few days, as they come from the factory dry. i believe i made a post about this awhile ago. i had the same exact issue, clutch was locked up solid, had it hit it with a hammer to get it off.
as for a bracket, id just rebend the stock one, as it sits way to high.
another tip is get a quaity steel half moon key for the rear belt. as there so cheaply made they will shear when you need it most.
also, lock tite the hell out of everything. i recomened the higher strength blue loctite.
and reinforce the fenders as they will snap off. (had that happpen, luckly i didnt fly off the thing)

those are what i had to do to this thing reliable, there really quality engines when you get all the stuff sorted out with!

hope this helps you out, if you need anymore help just let me know!
 

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i have the same one, you need to heat up the bushing (gold thing, it should come off the clutch separately) and soak it in oil for a few days, as they come from the factory dry. i believe i made a post about this awhile ago. i had the same exact issue, clutch was locked up solid, had it hit it with a hammer to get it off.
as for a bracket, id just rebend the stock one, as it sits way to high.
another tip is get a quaity steel half moon key for the rear belt. as there so cheaply made they will shear when you need it most.
also, lock tite the hell out of everything. i recomened the higher strength blue loctite.
and reinforce the fenders as they will snap off. (had that happpen, luckly i didnt fly off the thing)

those are what i had to do to this thing reliable, there really quality engines when you get all the stuff sorted out with!

hope this helps you out, if you need anymore help just let me know!
I appreciate all the advice.

Yea, the clutch looks and acts fine now.. I think poking a screwdriver inside to remove the bell cover knocked the clutch loose and it seems fine. So I don't know if I should try to replace it or not. Seemed like when it got hot, a spring or something got stuck in place. Not really going to trust it at this point. Looks like gasbike.net is the only place that carries them.
 
I appreciate all the advice.

Yea, the clutch looks and acts fine now.. I think poking a screwdriver inside to remove the bell cover knocked the clutch loose and it seems fine. So I don't know if I should try to replace it or not. Seemed like when it got hot, a spring or something got stuck in place. Not really going to trust it at this point. Looks like gasbike.net is the only place that carries them.
Yea thats the bushing seizing. It should move freely. I took some fine grid sand paper and polished the surfaces and oiled the bushing good (those bushing NEED to soak in oil and create a slick surface.) After that there perfect. Smooth engagement and everything you could want
 
Yea thats the bushing seizing. It should move freely. I took some fine grid sand paper and polished the surfaces and oiled the bushing good (those bushing NEED to soak in oil and create a slick surface.) After that there perfect. Smooth engagement and everything you could want
Oh - I think I understand now. I put the bolt back in, and it seized back up.. So you mean the brass collar needs to be sanded down and greased? Luckily mine came up with a pair of vice grips.

Is this engine straight shaft or tapered? I assume straight? There is also a copper washer between the bell cover and clutch. The bell cover has some grooves on the inside, I'm guessing that's just for grip. Also one of the clutch pads is peeling a bit, but I think it should still work. I'll order another just to have a spare.

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Oh - I think I understand now. I put the bolt back in, and it seized back up.. So you mean the brass collar needs to be sanded down and greased? Luckily mine came up with a pair of vice grips.

Is this engine straight shaft or tapered? I assume straight? There is also a copper washer between the bell cover and clutch. The bell cover has some grooves on the inside, I'm guessing that's just for grip. Also one of the clutch pads is peeling a bit, but I think it should still work. I'll order another just to have a spare.

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Its a straight shaft. And it needs to just be sanded (or polished) so you can run your fingernail across it and it doesn't catch (aka smooth)
And i wouldn't grease it. As grease will make it not as slick (you want it as slick as possible) i used some 10w-30 motor oil i had laying around Filled a cup with it. Heated up the bushing with a torch (you could also use a lighter) and dropped it in there. Let it sit for the weekend. And installed it. Never had to mess with it since
Also, loctite those clutch bolts. Or tighten them down real good.
If I can find pictures ill show you
 
Sounds good. I got it soaking in oil now. I'll sand it down slightly this week when I have a chance and get it all bolted back up.
 
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