Finished 2d build "ChromeStallion"

learned a lot from the "Red Peril" build .... the "Chrome Stallion" is much improved I think.
Pics highlight the bike plus special features like :

1. Black jacketed Harley handlebars
2. custom mounted speedo
3. modified clutch lever hold button that keeps lever fully depressed toward grip
4. chrome bulk up jacket on kickstand
5. chrome jacketed extension on muffler for looks and throaty sound
6. really silent engine chain with no needed idler wheel
7. peddle tension is maintained with the idler wheel from engine chain
8. modified coaster brake arm and counter sunk hex bolts on sprocket to allow an inch of clearance from engine chain and tire whitewalls. (If you use whitewalls, chain clearance to protect against rub PLUS grease splash is even more critical than using blackwalls. My opinion is at least a full 3/8ths away from sidewalls is necessary to stop both problems.)
9.Selected bike was especially picked for the springer front end looks and operation.
10. Easy on the butt 12x12 Back Trails saddle.
11. custom tank trim with Excaliber sword medallion (my thanks to Jim Bakker for this one !)

Other features are the 40 tooth sprocket which I think outperforms the 44 tooth and lets you avoid the 36 toother which I tried and removed due to lack of any real torque on this bike. The bag rail has thru bolts into the rear bobbed and lifted fender which greatly sturdies it up to almost motorcycle rigidity. The standard trick of rubber mounted thru bolts on the gas tank to eliminate the shoddy look of those straps was used on both builds. The bulked up chrome gascap is just one of those billet style oil cap covers sold in all auto parts stores. The shortened gas throttle cable to end the over curve and over length was done by clipping off the barrel insert at the throttle sleeve, feeding cut cable onto a (nerf? durp?) ...heh, whatever those barrel n screw ends are called , then dremeled to cut off the screw top and turn into a barrel insert for the sleeve slot.
 

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10/07 There is a serious update I need to add because we all share procedures and my brake arm procedure to permit a very wide spacing of my driven sprocket gear required changing. As you know,on a coaster brake bike, your ability to space your wheel chain sprocket gear as far outward as possible is hampered by the coaster brake arm. To bend an acute "L' shape into the arm and recurve it back toward the bike does permit the desired spacing room but I find now that the new shape causes the lever to take a twisting stress it is not subject to normally. In its normal configuration the brake arm takes braking strain downward evenly thru it edgewise attached configuration. Reshaped,it begins taking braking stress more along its flat facing surfaces causing a slow steady twisting and finally a totally collapse into a full bend or break.I have since replaced the arm back to an arm in it's regular edgewise stress taking configuration.

moreover, this extra spacing was to address the use of whitewalls which requires MUCH more chain clearance past the white sidewalls because unlike blackwalls, any small chain splash or the slightest brush by the vibrating or flexing chain causes irrepairable stains,or light gouging in the sidewall. I have since returned to blackwalls because even before the brake arm failed, te full 3/8ths of an inch clearance between the chain and the sidewall (which is extreme and impossible to get without maximum spacing of your wheel gear) still was not enough to permit the rear whitewall to stay perfectly clean and brillient white,a thing so necessary I feel if you run whitewalls. Simply put, whitewalls are simply not practical in relationship with using these engines as there is no way to control a complete end of chain splash,exhaust droplets or misting, and road tar marks not usually affecting whitewalls on a regular non motored bicycle at 12 mph speeds.If you have copied my proceedure be advised that there is every possibility of brake arm bending and failure over 25 to 50 miles of coaster break use especially in hard braking.
 
Whitewalls, and brake arms

HI I quit Whitewalls several years ago as I did not like the upkeep, and additionally the white rubber is not as durable in the sun (plenty of that here in Sacramento!). I will be using all-whites on a couple bikes now and can tell you that your best friend is a product called Westlys Bleche White. I've been using it for over 8 years and Dad has used it since the 50's on restored cars. Works better than anything I've ever seen.

Brake arm, I put them in a heavy vise, and strike with a very heavy hammer, I ONLY increase the origional bend, and certainly would mot suggest a "DogLeg" in the arm. With the single bend increased I've had no problems at 30mph + and 275lb rider.

Mike
 
Heh ... yah, me and Bleachwite are OLD friends , it would have been totally impossible to keep the whites on either of my builds on as long as I did without it. I use the same bending method as you and I didn't mean to imply an added 'dogleg' ... I tried to keep the details of the problem a little simpler than what the full problem was ... due to this particular bikes rear hub I not only had to increase the bend but I had to trim down the circuler part of the metal that surrounds the square 'wrench' socket hole. This added to the stress. I can make my own heavier arms with all the equipment I have around here but the overall true frustration to me is simply whitewalls do not stay that brillient white color just in daily use. Actually, I think it's strange about these bicycles .... I had 2 50cc scooters before finding out about these engines, and I have my regular touring motorcycle ... I can ride all day on any of them and the only maintenence was wiping of a few splatted bugs ... ever notice how these bicycles get though ? My front caliper brake pads look to me just as thick and nice as when right out of the package but after every ride my calipers themselves are covered in a minute small black powder whether I've even used the brakes or not ... I used to think it was break pad dust but I don't know what to think now ... rear rims coated in the same way, and I'm no believer in the overuse of engine oil as I think many are way overboard on thier ratios, so I don't think it can be attributed to the exhaust either ... its just the entire bike seems soooo strangely dirty from top to bottom after 20 or 30 miles.It's a fine black powder like flour ... you're from Sacremento and I'm your neighbor in Novato ! Do you get this stuff from top to bottom of your bikes ? It washes or wipes off pretty easily except on the whitewalls where it becomes a fine smear. I used to wipe my bikes down with wd40 for a quick cheat of a shine and I stopped diong that as soon as I saw this soot layer appear ... they are both totally dry and I use only premium ZAINO wax now but this black sooting continues ,,, I hope this is not what we Californinians are breathing right outta the air !
 
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Thats exactly what it is ( smog dust) and you are breathing it...!!!... I've seen people wear dust masks to prevent it from their lungs. VW..T..inWV
 
ChromeStallion to FauxWhizzer Update Pics

I'm adding pics for each stage of the add ons I'm doing for this deliberate overbuild. Way overkill I know, but my goal is simply to relieve me from the constant 'looking over the shoulder' I do now from fear of police suprises, warnings,rebukes,tickets , or arrests. When completed my only (less scary) concern will be that I don't have DOT approved tires (do they make those ?) The pics show the first of the upgrade items :

1. Kawasaki rear turn signals
2. Latest generation of super bright LED's for the 'always on' tail light
3. Off switch,carry bag installed, for tail light
4. Lower light is high intensity LED brake light.
5. The battery inside the case can power a Cygolite for 3 hours on low beam, but in this case will only be powering the very low draw of the entire rear lights.Should last for days of use since only the top LED tail light will be in primary use during daylight rides,and the always on headlight (pics when installed) will be on a separate Cygolite waterbottle shaped battery configuration they offer.
6.Carry case also holds the AC converter box for charging the 12 volt battery. I can just pull it out and plug in to AC with no fumbling around to connect.
7. Hidden turn flasher is also inside the carry all case.
I'm almost content that it will take me at least two weeks to add every other component in this build, because it can't be ridden in this half built way anyhow, and that fact makes the usual maddening wait for licence plates less of a concern.
8.Not finished,the turn signal control switch is a 2 function swing paddle to control left or right flashers. Bolted on through the Harley bars. Shown without mounting bolt and plate support cover.
 

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I keep meaning to put one on, they all look so funky. I know I must but for now I unscrew and hand wipe the screen ... my bad too, because there is always small debris on it.
 
that lil screen will be the demise of your happy-time, i hope you never have to mark my words...

btw-i LOVE your lighting system...i think i'll go with separate power for the rear setup, seems too easy, and logical :)
 
Augi, oh please continue ... Do you mean the lack of having a filter screen or the very presence of the screen inside ..... do you mean I should add the in line filter IN PLACE of the funky inner screen ?
 
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