First bike build. Clutch very stiff?

[inspectorcritic]

View attachment 76459 View attachment 76460 These photos are of my first build I'm in the process of finishing. I chose a cheap Huffy bike that looks cool and and inexpensive stinger kit to put on it. Everything went very smoothly with the exception of a very very stiff clutch. It is extremely hard to pull in the clutch lever but there is no cable binding whatsoever. It does function however. When rotating the chain on the sprocket with the spark plug tool, I noticed it did tighten up quite a bit while turning it to rotate the chain period could this have anything to do with a stiff clutch? It doesn't seem like it would. Thank you in advance.

I order a new throttle from BikeBerry notice right off the bat on releasing it had a slow response to the idle then going up hill full throttle til I got to the top stop light throttle still at full RPM 100,00000000 RPM tried to manually turn the the throttle down no response damn near got me killed almost blew the engine apart. Try taking the clutch handle apart look for it snagging the plastic on mine was dragging against it I took a razor knife widdle it down to clear. Also maybe you might have screwed it on crooked.
Also check the pivot barrle thats the bar that goes in to depress it like he said grease it. I got one that the damn barrel lodge into the clutch all the way flush its jam in there won't come out that screwed up a lot of my thoughts on just whats causing the problems.

 

[KCvale]

Just take that silly smaller spring out of the clutch line, it's only purpose is to make it harder to pull in the clutch lever.

Leave the big spring on the outside of the clutch line on, and make sure it protects where the clutch cable rests against the cylinder.

Easy.
Be careful with what you put in a pull cable, dry lubes like Graphite generally work better than liquids.

 

[Purple Haze]

Moving the clutch arm angle is the best way to fix a stiff clutch. The arm is splined to the shaft. Mark the position, then remove the nut holding it on, tap it out using a soft hammer (or wood block) then move the arm where it has a straight pull towards the adjustment screw. After I did mine, it pulls easily and smoothly. Also, there are curved arms available if you want to spend the money.

 

[Wags]

I use Teflon coated everything when it comes to cables. Jaguar makes some good cable and housing. You can more or less bend it back on itself and you can still pull it easily.

 

[Photojunky]

Just take that silly smaller spring out of the clutch line, it's only purpose is to make it harder to pull in the clutch lever.

Leave the big spring on the outside of the clutch line on, and make sure it protects where the clutch cable rests against the cylinder.

Easy.
Be careful with what you put in a pull cable, dry lubes like Graphite generally work better than liquids.

I took the spring out as you suggested and it seemed to help some, but I also lubricated the part that presses against the start sprocket shafts. Actually everything I did is in the video I posted.

 

[KCvale]

Cool, we all just want to make our builds run ;-}

 

[crassius]

had one yesterday with stiff clutch - heard a bit of scraping noise and noticed the hand lever was rubbing inside the handlebar mount - took apart, filed down some casting flashes and all is good

 

[Karalewis4225]

View attachment 76459 View attachment 76460 These photos are of my first build I'm in the process of finishing. I chose a cheap Huffy bike that looks cool and and inexpensive stinger kit to put on it. Everything went very smoothly with the exception of a very very stiff clutch. It is extremely hard to pull in the clutch lever but there is no cable binding whatsoever. It does function however. When rotating the chain on the sprocket with the spark plug tool, I noticed it did tighten up quite a bit while turning it to rotate the chain period could this have anything to do with a stiff clutch? It doesn't seem like it would. Thank you in advance.

You have the cable installed wrong. It should not have all those loops and twists. It should start from the clutch lever and go straight over your basket and curve around the right side of the bike and into both holes on the engine. Also put the big spring on the cable atleast so your engine wont burn your cable.

That should solve it. If its a new kit I dont see why you should have to get a new one. I can use a old rusty one as long as I put some 3n1 oil down the line its good.

But yea your line needs to just go in one smooth curve.

 

[Photojunky]

Those were old photos. I have corrected the problem. Greese, removed a spring, and changed the clutch linkage angle slightly. Thanks for the advice. Im loving messing with this stuff.

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Those were old photos. I have corrected the problem. Greese, removed a spring, and changed the clutch linkage angle slightly. Thanks for the advice. Im loving messing with this stuff.

Just saying, that spring is the return spring to assist in DISENGAGING the clutch, removing it WILL cause issues once your INTERNAL clutch spring breaks in and increase your clutch pad wear unnecessarily.

Just break it in and increase grip strength simultaneously and it will be more normal soon.
Park with the clutch locked for a day or two would be better than removing the spring.